Emergency Exit Rear Door Release Ideas

[DRKTruck]

Thank you! This is the best solution I've seen. I'm ordering one now. Thank you so much for creating this!

just to circle back on this. I received my order and I can’t say enough good things about this solution. It fits perfectly, looks great, is highly visible, and works great. I went with the glow in the dark green color and it glows really good. I’ve already told my local CT buddies about this solution. Here are some pics. The first one is in a dark environment and you can clearly see it glowing against the door. I’m really happy with my purchase.

it’s called Cyberglow:

https://getcyberglow.com/products/c...handle-pair-cybertruck?variant=43929342869613

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[eswimm]

If you want to and if you can, send a pic of the actual pull handle from the side, I can show you where it

So the flaw is at this layer where it meets the handle - I took the pic off your site just to illustrate it for you, I'm in no way implying yours have the same flaw. However, I suspect the original designer knew it was a weak point as they put a hole for an M3 screw, but even with that, it would need some form of internal nut in the main body of the handle to not come apart.

Assuming I understand your break correctly (handle snapping off the lever, perpendicular to the layer lines), more walls and more top and bottom layers would strengthen against that. PLA is entirely unsuitable for this application due to temperature and strength limitations and I personally don't think PETG is suitable for something you intend to rely on in an emergency situation.

I printed mine with a strength profile, 0.20mm layers, 6 walls and 5 top/bottom layers and 25% gyroid infill. I don't use grid infill, it's an interference pattern where the hotend ends up skipping off perpendicular lines, reducing the integrity and often chipping off tiny bits of material that can end up elsewhere in the print, either reducing appearance or strength. Thinner layers look better, but lower strength. This print still looks great with 0.20mm layers.

The weakest part of this model would be the attachment point for the release cable, since that could separate along layer lines, but I don't think that's the highest strain point during use. The optional bolt could provide a little strength there, but any over-tightening of that bolt would probably decrease the strength, so I skipped it.

My 1st prints were in PC (polycarbonate) and I considered PAHT-CF (high temp carbon fiber reinforced nylon). Both are extremely strong and temperature resistant, but the lack of color options (pretty much black) left me unhappy with the visibility. I opted for bright red ASA, since it is almost as strong and temperature resistant, but much higher visibility.

If I were selling (or buying) these, I'd be a lot less concerned about the aesthetics and more concerned with strength. I tried PLA and PETG for MagSafe inserts for the phone cradles and both of those deformed over time during summer cabin temps. I suspect (although I haven't measured) that temps in the door cavity are at least as high if not higher than the cabin temps.

EDIT: Also, seam alignment is cosmetic, not structural. Random seam is usually preferable if you can't hide it.

 

[That Beast Mode]

Assuming I understand your break correctly (handle snapping off the lever, perpendicular to the layer lines), more walls and more top and bottom layers would strengthen against that. PLA is entirely unsuitable for this application due to temperature and strength limitations and I personally don't think PETG is suitable for something you intend to rely on in an emergency situation.

I printed mine with a strength profile, 0.20mm layers, 6 walls and 5 top/bottom layers and 25% gyroid infill. I don't use grid infill, it's an interference pattern where the hotend ends up skipping off perpendicular lines, reducing the integrity and often chipping off tiny bits of material that can end up elsewhere in the print, either reducing appearance or strength. Thinner layers look better, but lower strength. This print still looks great with 0.20mm layers.

The weakest part of this model would be the attachment point for the release cable, since that could separate along layer lines, but I don't think that's the highest strain point during use. The optional bolt could provide a little strength there, but any over-tightening of that bolt would probably decrease the strength, so I skipped it.

My 1st prints were in PC (polycarbonate) and I considered PAHT-CF (high temp carbon fiber reinforced nylon). Both are extremely strong and temperature resistant, but the lack of color options (pretty much black) left me unhappy with the visibility. I opted for bright red ASA, since it is almost as strong and temperature resistant, but much higher visibility.

If I were selling (or buying) these, I'd be a lot less concerned about the aesthetics and more concerned with strength. I tried PLA and PETG for MagSafe inserts for the phone cradles and both of those deformed over time during summer cabin temps. I suspect (although I haven't measured) that temps in the door cavity are at least as high if not higher than the cabin temps.

EDIT: Also, seam alignment is cosmetic, not structural. Random seam is usually preferable if you can't hide it.

So i forgot to update this post with pics.. Mine were printed in PetG and as mentioned earlier broke with the slightest force. This is just one side but it happened to both exactly the same. See below

 

[Cirrus SR22]

Although this isn't a fix I do believe it helps in case of an emergency. I get a message that video is too large so hopefully this Youtube link to video will work. I am not great at posting. Fingers Crossed.



Here is the Amazon link for door pocket organizer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHXKYZC3?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1

I bought this and they look great.
https://ebay.us/m/p772eB

 

[AverageJoe]

Late to the party but casual 3d printer enthusiast. I have 3 different versions of the anycubic 3d printer.

Has no one tried changing the orientation to make the layer lines not a perfect 90° angle to applied force?

Put the handle at an odd angle causing supports so the layer line can cut across the applied force. Yes it will take more material and longer to print. Make this change in addition to the nut and bolt and you'll have a significantly stronger combo imho.

 

[eswimm]

So i forgot to update this post with pics.. Mine were printed in PetG and as mentioned earlier broke with the slightest force. This is just one side but it happened to both exactly the same. See below

Okay, so broke along the layer lines. In your case, 2 walls and I would guess your print temps might be a little low. The print quality is excellent, but slightly higher temps might improve layer adhesion. 6 walls would triple the surface area for layer adhesion. In your case, the bolt might have helped, but it might have also just moved the snap point to where the cord attaches.

 

[eswimm]

Late to the party but casual 3d printer enthusiast. I have 3 different versions of the anycubic 3d printer.

Has no one tried changing the orientation to make the layer lines not a perfect 90° angle to applied force?

Put the handle at an odd angle causing supports so the layer line can cut across the applied force. Yes it will take more material and longer to print. Make this change in addition to the nut and bolt and you'll have a significantly stronger combo imho.

Strongest orientation for this print would be perpendicular to the build plate on the side. Layers would extend through the entirety of the lever and the hook for the cable. It would require support and would still be at risk for snapping in half lengthwise, but it would be the largest layer surface area.

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