Range getting better and better

[HaulingAss]

at the bolded.

You're making the mistake of assuming I don't use the CT hard and as a truck. I'd be shocked if more than ~5% of people use the CT as hard as I do.

Wait....I thought you said the OEM All-Season tires were better tires than the OEM AT tires!

What do you do, change wheels and tires for each days planned activities? I need tires that can handle the full range of activities for months at a time. The OEM ATs do that very well for me.

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[henchman24]

Wait....I thought you said the OEM All-Season tires were better tires than the OEM AT tires!

What do you do, change wheels and tires for each days planned activities? I need tires that can handle the full range of activities for months at a time. The OEM ATs do that very well for me.

You're missing the whole debate here. I argue that the OEM AS tires are better tires for the VAST majority of CT owners. There is a small segment where the AT tires are better OEM to OEM... but again I'd argue... those would likely be much better served by other AT tires on the market that are much more capable. IMO if you really need the capability of AT tires, there are just much better AT tires out there that don't have a bunch of compromises designed in.

See... that's the thing, I don't change my tires for each day. I swapped out my OEM AS Pirellis for Nokian Outpost NATs within 500mi of ownership. Those have been on my truck ever since. Deep snow, off-road trails, carrying water up my road, towing the drag car, long highway cruises... they do it all for me. They are very well-suited to my use case, which is admittedly abnormal. I have no reason to change them. If my use case was different, I'd simply have different tires.

If the OEM ATs work well for you, keep going with them. Each person can evaluate what tire works best for them.

 

[soonerdy]

If it's an attached garage, it could help.

Why does it matter if it's attached?

 

[henchman24]

Why does it matter if it's attached?

I'm purely guessing here, but most attached garages keep heat better than detached. Though each situation is unique. My detached garage is better insulated than my house...

Anyway to keep up temps helps though. Whether that is garage, ending charge right before you have to leave, maximum amps you can run, having a bonfire next to it, etc. This pack really wants to be ~55-60f to have full power. If it is below that and you are not in chill mode, it will utilize waste heat from elsewhere in the vehicle to heat the pack to those temps. Naturally, if you drive ~100mi, it will get there on its own during the trip (as long as it isn't super cold), but if you only drive 20mi, it isn't enough time to heat up. So the truck constantly tries to heat the pack. The colder the pack is, the more it will run the motors inefficiently and the heat pump to warm the pack. Chill mode knocks off about 10-15f off those temps. I haven't quite figured out the exact number it shoots for, but around 45-50.

 

[soonerdy]

I'm purely guessing here, but most attached garages keep heat better than detached. Though each situation is unique. My detached garage is better insulated than my house...

Anyway to keep up temps helps though. Whether that is garage, ending charge right before you have to leave, maximum amps you can run, having a bonfire next to it, etc. This pack really wants to be ~55-60f to have full power. If it is below that and you are not in chill mode, it will utilize waste heat from elsewhere in the vehicle to heat the pack to those temps. Naturally, if you drive ~100mi, it will get there on its own during the trip (as long as it isn't super cold), but if you only drive 20mi, it isn't enough time to heat up. So the truck constantly tries to heat the pack. The colder the pack is, the more it will run the motors inefficiently and the heat pump to warm the pack. Chill mode knocks off about 10-15f off those temps. I haven't quite figured out the exact number it shoots for, but around 45-50.

Thanks for taking the time to provide such an informative response henchmen! I need to get my garage ready.

 

[Beetlebug62]

I'm purely guessing here, but most attached garages keep heat better than detached. Though each situation is unique. My detached garage is better insulated than my house...

Anyway to keep up temps helps though. Whether that is garage, ending charge right before you have to leave, maximum amps you can run, having a bonfire next to it, etc. This pack really wants to be ~55-60f to have full power. If it is below that and you are not in chill mode, it will utilize waste heat from elsewhere in the vehicle to heat the pack to those temps. Naturally, if you drive ~100mi, it will get there on its own during the trip (as long as it isn't super cold), but if you only drive 20mi, it isn't enough time to heat up. So the truck constantly tries to heat the pack. The colder the pack is, the more it will run the motors inefficiently and the heat pump to warm the pack. Chill mode knocks off about 10-15f off those temps. I haven't quite figured out the exact number it shoots for, but around 45-50.

Is there an OBDII reader plug in the CT?

 

[Loudness]

Is there an OBDII reader plug in the CT?

Yes: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...UID-3E2CB8CA-2CFF-44AE-B883-15DBF56527AF.html

 

[BrockN]

good AT tires are something like K02/K03s, Wildpeak A/T3W, Open Country A/T III... or my own bias Nokian Outpost NAT. These tires are night and day compared to the OEM AT tires.

The Nokian is what I was pondering for when my stock ATs are worn out. It sounds like you swapped them on pretty early though, so maybe you didn't have time to get a good feel for how efficient they are compared to the stock ATs... but I'm curious about how much of a range hit they trigger? And what you like most about them? From the Nokian literature, they're supposed to have been designed with EV efficiency in mind.

Based on what I've inferred from elsewhere, the K03s are significantly less efficient than the ATs. And from my own experience, the DuraTracs aren't great in that department either.

 

[henchman24]

The Nokian is what I was pondering for when my stock ATs are worn out. It sounds like you swapped them on pretty early though, so maybe you didn't have time to get a good feel for how efficient they are compared to the stock ATs... but I'm curious about how much of a range hit they trigger? And what you like most about them? From the Nokian literature, they're supposed to have been designed with EV efficiency in mind.

Based on what I've inferred from elsewhere, the K03s are significantly less efficient than the ATs. And from my own experience, the DuraTracs aren't great in that department either.

I had the AS tires on mine and the efficiency drop (in a very small sample) was only a few percent, maybe 5. But again very small sample. I routinely have a >400 mi trip with mostly interstate travel where I’m in the 410-450wh/mi depending on wind and temps and going ~80 for 350+ of the miles. I chose the Nokians because they have the capability I needed while being lighter (one of the lightest ATs) and not as aggressively treaded, especially on the sidewalls as some of the other options. I’m very happy with the tires all around.

My experiences with the OEM AT tires have only been in beasts and I have a dual motor. So I don’t have any directly comparable experience there.

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