Which "Shocker" shock absorbing trailer hitch?

[Stupid_metal_triangle]

Total towing noob here and I want to get the "right" hitch for the cyber truck.

This shock absorbing trailer hitch looks like a good match for the truck, especially given the frame is aluminum. While I don't think this type of hitch is required by any means it looks like a good match since it should isolate some of the vibrations from reaching the truck.

https://shockerhitch.com/product/hd-max-black-super-drop-air-hitch/

I'd like to get a trailer to be able to tow things like side-by-sides/ATVs and maybe even a smaller camper one day. If I get the range battery then I would need to tow whenever I am picking up 4'x8' sheets of things so a smaller trailer would make sense given that some off the bed space will be used by the range battery.

Has anyone used this product or have recommendations on which options work well for the CT?

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[Woodrick]

Why are you using a shock absorption hitch?

It sounds as if you want to just haul a utility trailer. If so, just go to Home Depot are Walmart and get what you need.

I wouldn't suggest an adjustable, just get one that fits the trailer you will tow. If you don't know ad just have to get one, just get a straight one.

If you just have to get an adjustable one, make sure to measure to the road in the low ride height and to the tailgate when let down.
And don't forget to leave room for when you go up those steep entrance transitions.

 

[ED2016]

As others suggested go to a professional trailer shop to fit your trailer to your tow truck, ideally you want the trailer be horizontal to the ground when attached to your tow vehicle when loaded ( or slightly higher at hitch when trailer is empty ).... Another point is that pivot point should be the Trailer Ball where 2" reciever mounting point should be as solid as possible with no rattle or movements ideally. I also recommend to use the U clamp to get rid of such rattle noise. pls see picture attached as one example of such accessories.

 

[Leemanpa]

I use this:

https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/

A bit on the pricey side, but I towed my 18' car carrier with a UTV and empty, and get no vibration whatsoever. Don't even have to crank the jack stand, just drive under it in entry, then raise to MAX height, lock in the ball, retract the jack with the spring/pin and lower back to normal height.

 

[mongo]

FWIW, the Cybertruck manual calls out a maximum rearward ball position of 49 inches from rear axle. That corresponds to 8 inches from pin to ball.
Rearmost body point is 46 inches.

 

[Pops]

OP has a really valid question that most people seem to be ignoring. Would a shock absorbing hitch reduce the stress on the aluminum frame? I don't know, but it seems logical.

I'm sure it can be argued that it's unnecessary, but if it's not cost prohibitive it's worth considering.

 

[Woodrick]

I use this:

https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/

A bit on the pricey side, but I towed my 18' car carrier with a UTV and empty, and get no vibration whatsoever. Don't even have to crank the jack stand, just drive under it in entry, then raise to MAX height, lock in the ball, retract the jack with the spring/pin and lower back to normal height.

Interesting since the difference between entry and low is only 1.6 in.
I guess the difference between entry and medium at 2.2 in is just enough.

But I get no vibration without a shock absorbing hitch.

 

[Woodrick]

I use this:

https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/

A bit on the pricey side, but I towed my 18' car carrier with a UTV and empty, and get no vibration whatsoever. Don't even have to crank the jack stand, just drive under it in entry, then raise to MAX height, lock in the ball, retract the jack with the spring/pin and lower back to normal height.

And this one is $26 and normally available at your local Walmart or Home Depot. (as opposed to $304-$484)

As well as I can remember, the Cybertruck receiver it pretty low, so a drop hitch may not always answer the needs. The Walmart hitch can be used up or down. As I said to begin with, it depends on your trailer needs.

 

[gtgarner]

Total towing noob here and I want to get the "right" hitch for the cyber truck.

This shock absorbing trailer hitch looks like a good match for the truck, especially given the frame is aluminum. While I don't think this type of hitch is required by any means it looks like a good match since it should isolate some of the vibrations from reaching the truck.

https://shockerhitch.com/product/hd-max-black-super-drop-air-hitch/

I'd like to get a trailer to be able to tow things like side-by-sides/ATVs and maybe even a smaller camper one day. If I get the range battery then I would need to tow whenever I am picking up 4'x8' sheets of things so a smaller trailer would make sense given that some off the bed space will be used by the range battery.

Has anyone used this product or have recommendations on which options work well for the CT?

Shocker Air Equalizer & Chain Style WD Hitch 12,000 lbs GTW for 2-5/16 Ball - 8 Hole XR Frame (#SH-7002/SH-7500)

Everyone look at the shocker hitches that have the bag up front if you need to equalize your trailers and/or its load.

 

[Gaximus]

OP has a really valid question that most people seem to be ignoring. Would a shock absorbing hitch reduce the stress on the aluminum frame? I don't know, but it seems logical.

I'm sure it can be argued that it's unnecessary, but if it's not cost prohibitive it's worth considering.

Just a guess, but aluminum tends to fail with repeated flexing, that’s why airliners don’t pressurize to sea level when flying, just enough pressure to be comfortable. Roofs have exploded off of airliners do ti many explanations.
My pointing being, and not saying it’s right, just a thought, that a “shock” might be better for aluminum, vs anti-shock, continuous flexing (shock absorbing trailer hitch does not remove the total movement, just the shock of it)

Might be better to have shock, or not

 

[Woodrick]

Just a guess, but aluminum tends to fail with repeated flexing, that’s why airliners don’t pressurize to sea level when flying, just enough pressure to be comfortable. Roofs have exploded off of airliners do ti many explanations.
My pointing being, and not saying it’s right, just a thought, that a “shock” might be better for aluminum, vs anti-shock, continuous flexing (shock absorbing trailer hitch does not remove the total movement, just the shock of it)

Might be better to have shock, or not

As I was doing research, it appeared as if one company came up with the idea, with very little reason for it and then everyone else had to be competitive.

I'm just not sure of its need.

 

[Nice2CTu]

I use this:

https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/

A bit on the pricey side, but I towed my 18' car carrier with a UTV and empty, and get no vibration whatsoever. Don't even have to crank the jack stand, just drive under it in entry, then raise to MAX height, lock in the ball, retract the jack with the spring/pin and lower back to normal height.

What drop length option did you use for the CT? 4" / 8", etc?

 

[Leemanpa]

What drop length option did you use for the CT? 4" / 8", etc?

I originally got the 6"... But since the hitch could not fit as an 'UP' hitch due to a 1/3" inability to get the pin in, I had to use it as a drop hitch. So I ordered a 4" add-on, and use the top hole. Works well, using the air-rise suspension from ENTRY to HIGH (off road) to mate the ball to the hitch. Then a drop to normal, and it works like a charm...

 

[Nice2CTu]

Thx for this, am I understanding correctly that you would get a 10" and use as a drop hitch, replacing the 6" + 4" extension?

 

[Nice2CTu]

Or are you saying get a 4" as a drop hitch?

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