Charge rate intermittently defaults to around 46 amps

[roadrunner32]

I have observed this on both my Y and my Cybertruck.
don't know why it happens but I'm in the process of tracking it down.
Ive seen it on my Y after a road trip of supercharging.
wondering if it has something to do with switching charging from the CT to the Y and vice versa.
I like to keep charging amps 15 to 20 amps low. don't drive enough to need faster rate.
from now on I need to check the charging amps when plugging in.
Also wondering if this is the reason for the flurry of electrical faults in the electrical panels that I've been seeing posted.

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[CT_AZ_4x4]

I have observed this on both my Y and my Cybertruck….

Tesla warranty replaced my wall charger because there was an issue with the charging cable/handle getting too hot. It would reduce amperage automatically and a flashing red light would accompany the “flowing” green lights.

I took a laser thermometer gun and read the handle’s temperature: it was sometimes over 150F.

The remote wall charger support people took readings multiple times at different periods of the day and ended up shipping a new unit.

The new unit has no problems. 48 amp charging without a hot cable/handle.

 

[HaulingAss]

I have observed this on both my Y and my Cybertruck.
don't know why it happens but I'm in the process of tracking it down.
Ive seen it on my Y after a road trip of supercharging.
wondering if it has something to do with switching charging from the CT to the Y and vice versa.
I like to keep charging amps 15 to 20 amps low. don't drive enough to need faster rate.
from now on I need to check the charging amps when plugging in.
Also wondering if this is the reason for the flurry of electrical faults in the electrical panels that I've been seeing posted.

What does the voltage read when it's only charging at 46 amps? If your electrical infrastructure (either in your house or on the street) is substandard you can get voltage sag. The maximum charge rate is 11,500 watts (48 amps at 240 volts). If the voltage is lower than 240 volts, the watts (and thus the amps) will be lower too. I believe it works the other way too. I'm often getting 242-243 volts, so I assume the car charges a little over 48 amps (even though it still reads 48 amps).

The only electrical/charging system reason to charge at a rate below the maximum is if your electrical infrastructure in your home (or the local transformer on the street) is not up to normal standards. Charging at the highest rate available maximizes efficiency by increasing the number of hours the car can "sleep".

Have you checked your breaker box, the connections on your Wall Unit and any connections in between for excessive heat after extended charging at 46 amps?

The Wall Unit will also dial down the power if it detects excessive heat in the Wall Unit (like if it's in full sun on a hot day) or the charge connector (but I doubt it would reduce current by such a small amount if it detected a problem). That's why I suspect voltage sag in the supply infrastructure.

 

[roadrunner32]

I have observed this on both my Y and my Cybertruck.
don't know why it happens but I'm in the process of tracking it down.
Ive seen it on my Y after a road trip of supercharging.
wondering if it has something to do with switching charging from the CT to the Y and vice versa.
I like to keep charging amps 15 to 20 amps low. don't drive enough to need faster rate.
from now on I need to check the charging amps when plugging in.
Also wondering if this is the reason for the flurry of electrical faults in the electrical panels that I've been seeing posted.

my problem is that it defaults to a higher current that my equipment is not rated for, neither the wire nor the circuit breaker.

 

[roadrunner32]

Charging at the highest rate available maximizes efficiency by increasing the number of hours the car can "sleep".

I've never heard this. I want low charge to keep from stressing my electrical. My vehicles get plenty of time to sleep. we are retired and we don't have to drive to jobs 30 miles a way. .

 

[HaulingAss]

I've never heard this. I want low charge to keep from stressing my electrical. My vehicles get plenty of time to sleep. we are retired and we don't have to drive to jobs 30 miles a way. .

If your houses electrical is getting stressed, it's sub-standard and should be refurbished. If you are talking about stressing the Tesla's electrical system or batteries, that is not a realistic concern.

Your argument that you don't drive much is not much of an argument, the percentage hit to efficiency is the same. Yes, that hit will cost you less if you drive less, but what are you hoping to gain? All Tesla are designed to charge at the max rate of the on-board charger. It's not a concern, not even a little one.

The fact that Tesla let's you charge at lower rates is simply to accommodate electrical infrastructure that can't handle the highest charge rate. It won't make your car last any longer.

 

[hemiarch]

Why would one want to level 2 charge slower? Is there evidence 15-20 amps is better for the battery than 48amps?

 

[roadrunner32]

Yes, I'm in the process of changing out my main electrical panel. My plan was to allow both vehicles, not at the same time, to charge at 32 amps. an aside note, I've been fairly annoyed that when the house was rebuilt after Ike they would not allow Propane, Now I'm saddled with all electric appliances, cook tops and oven, water heater, and especially HVAC having heat strips. Probably should get in the panel and measure the amps with hook on ammeter and add em up. Maybe 48 amps will be OK. That would be nice, cybertruck does take a lot of time to charge. at the lower amps.

 

[mongo]

Yes, I'm in the process of changing out my main electrical panel. My plan was to allow both vehicles, not at the same time, to charge at 32 amps. an aside note, I've been fairly annoyed that when the house was rebuilt after Ike they would not allow Propane, Now I'm saddled with all electric appliances, cook tops and oven, water heater, and especially HVAC having heat strips. Probably should get in the panel and measure the amps with hook on ammeter and add em up. Maybe 48 amps will be OK. That would be nice, cybertruck does take a lot of time to charge. at the lower amps.

Which version Wall Connectors do you have? Group power management would let you split a maximum current limit between the two.

 

[HaulingAss]

my problem is that it defaults to a higher current that my equipment is not rated for, neither the wire nor the circuit breaker.

I misunderstood earlier, I thought it was defaulting to 46 amps (from 48 amps).

This is very dangerous! Please stop using the EVSE until it is configured properly. You need to configure it to not exceed the maximum charge rate your circuit is capable of handling safely!

Relying on the charge power setting in the car to not burn your house down is not an acceptable strategy! Your circuit breaker should be tripping, but it sounds as if it's defective. Get a qualified electrician in there to look at the situation.

 

[HaulingAss]

Yes, I'm in the process of changing out my main electrical panel. My plan was to allow both vehicles, not at the same time, to charge at 32 amps. an aside note, I've been fairly annoyed that when the house was rebuilt after Ike they would not allow Propane, Now I'm saddled with all electric appliances, cook tops and oven, water heater, and especially HVAC having heat strips. Probably should get in the panel and measure the amps with hook on ammeter and add em up. Maybe 48 amps will be OK. That would be nice, cybertruck does take a lot of time to charge. at the lower amps.

Be glad you don't have a propane cooktop and oven! I don't even like gas ranges and after owning multiple gas and electric ranges I can't figure out who would prefer a gas range. Even with a large high-output burner offered by higher end gas ranges, they take too long to boil pasta water. A good induction range will put it to shame. And a propane range is even weaker than a gas range.

But, yeah, you need a 50 amp circuit for a powerful induction range. Believe it or not, the gas industry has spent billions of dollars to make consumers think cooking with gas is the best. They have literally brainwashed people. To be fair, before induction, they had somewhat of a point due to the instantaneous control of heat. But now? Ummm, no! They are weak and stinky, the only reason to buy gas is because you can't afford a good induction range. But you will pay for it over time.

The worst thing about gas ranges is the way they add moisture and toxic combustion byproducts to your home. It's a rare vent hood that captures most of this (vent hoods are not often turned on because they can be loud and obnoxious, not to mention inefficient during the heating or cooling season).

 

[CyberGus]

I can't figure out who would prefer a gas range.

 

[hemiarch]

Me. I’m the guy who by far prefers gas. It’s instant temperature control.. char is also not possible the same way on electric

seen the new season?

 

[CyberGus]

seen the new season?

I'm saving it for later. NO SPOILERS

I’m the guy who by far prefers gas.

Meh, I've used both, I'm good with either. Regularly switching between them is messing up my cook times, though lol.

But yeah, you need external venting. I never run the gas stove without the fan on.

 

[HaulingAss]

Me. I’m the guy who by far prefers gas. It’s instant temperature control.. char is also not possible the same way on electric

Incorrect. Induction changes temperature just as fast as gas (instantly) and even a cheap 1990's range with the old-school electric coils can char a steak black on both sides in about two minutes. The problem with the old electric ranges is they couldn't change temperature fast, that's not an issue with a powerful induction range.

I used to work alongside the owner/chef of a small, elegant restaurant at a ski area based mostly on French cooking. The most expensive dinner spot on the mountain. We had the standard commercial 8 burner gas range with powerful burners. Our signature steak was France's classic steak au poivre—pan-seared, peppercorn-crusted steaks with thick black crust on a med-rare steak (recommended) and a creamy pan sauce. Our home induction range gets a cast iron pan just as hot, I have to turn it down from the max setting about 30 seconds after the steak(s) go into the pan. There is no compromise vs. gas. It gets as hot as you want, and it does it faster without the humidity and evaporative cooling of a gas flame.

The great thing about induction is all the heat goes into the pan, your kitchen doesn't turn into a sweltering inferno on warm days. We have a Miele induction, it wasn't cheap, about the same price as a high-end gas range. Big ol' mechanical knobs for each burner for quick temperature changes (no button pushing to use the cooktop). And the electric oven is to die for. It puts all gas ovens I've used to shame. It can cook crispy pizza's, roast whole chickens to a juicy, fall off the bone with a perfectly even crispy brown skin, and it pre-heats in 1/3 the time (vs. gas) and keeps the kitchen much cooler. Much easier to use too.

Just like in the car industry, the gas industry has indoctrinated people to think gas is irreplaceable in the kitchen, but even many pro chefs are converting to induction. There is nothing magical about gas (and the moisture of combustion is a big problem when you need dry heat). Our electric oven has water injection if you need humidity.

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