Can you run Starlink mini on the 48v power feed?

[mstatkus]

I run this off my USB-C in the back seat mounted to the roof glass all day long. Zero issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DMLK71LG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

I disable snow melt to be safe for winter too hah.

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[hemiarch]

Correct, truck doesn't seem to care about other stuff connected with the lightbar (in a short time scale at least, them 50W resistors get hot fast). So you could mini+lightbar up top.
Frunk feed is a separate 400W from the roof.

That light bar is 12V, would you feed from power station?

Fair point. I’d either use a buck converter or just get the one from the vendor who doesn’t endorse this wiring scheme which is 48v.
Just trying not to attract any ire by posting a
different product.

 

[hemiarch]

I run this off my USB-C in the back seat mounted to the roof glass all day long. Zero issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DMLK71LG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

I disable snow melt to be safe for winter too hah.

Yes. But do you draw power from any of the other usb-c’s at the same time?

 

[hemiarch]

So I’ll ask a (potentially) really stupid question now. I had an extra OEM Starlink power cable so I sliced it open to take a look. Looks like this inside, with a group of wires in a red sleeve and a group of wires with no sleeve.

Could this be spliced into the frunk feed? With the red-sleeved wires spliced to red and the no-sleeved wires spliced to black?

I think so. Maybe put one of the quick connects you linked before in between for convenient unplugging.

 

[mstatkus]

Yes. But do you draw power from any of the other usb-c’s at the same time?

not in the back seat. But my understanding is each USB-C is rated at 65W and so far my roam dish sits around 22-40w. I've got about 3500mi now on this setup and only time I have issues is driving up a hill while facing north the angle gets a little too hard for the dish to negotiate satellites. Originally tested it off a ECOFlow Delta 2 so I could monitor its power use. Also handy like in my dads situation with a Wild fire I put his dish on this cable, and a WYZE cam so we could keep connectivity up in the event the power was taken out by the fire to monitor his house/property. (in a building in the middle of a field semi-safe from it)

I put an elbow adapter between so its easier to plug.

 

[hemiarch]

not in the back seat. But my understanding is each USB-C is rated at 65W and so far my roam dish sits around 22-40w

That was my understanding too but if I draw 54w from any other usb , the Starlink cuts out.
Don’t know why. Just an empiric observation.

 

[mongo]

not in the back seat. But my understanding is each USB-C is rated at 65W and so far my roam dish sits around 22-40w. I've got about 3500mi now on this setup and only time I have issues is driving up a hill while facing north the angle gets a little too hard for the dish to negotiate satellites. Originally tested it off a ECOFlow Delta 2 so I could monitor its power use. Also handy like in my dads situation with a Wild fire I put his dish on this cable, and a WYZE cam so we could keep connectivity up in the event the power was taken out by the fire to monitor his house/property. (in a building in the middle of a field semi-safe from it)

I put an elbow adapter between so its easier to plug.

Each port on its own can do 65W, but the group of three can't do 195W combined.

 

[mongo]

Fair point. I’d either use a buck converter or just get the one from the vendor who doesn’t endorse this wiring scheme which is 48v.
Just trying not to attract any ire by posting a
different product.

Ire?
The Victron Orion TR 48/12-20 or -30 might work for 12V accessories

 

[shopaholic]

Ire?
The Victron Orion TR 48/12-20 or -30 might work for 12V accessories

No electricity expert here, do you need this device vs a $17 buck converter? Curious

 

[mongo]

No electricity expert here, do you need this device vs a $17 buck converter? Curious

Depending on application the $17 one could work fine. The Victron has extra bells and whistles like battery charge profiles.
I'm running stuff with 3A converters thst are $10 for 3 of them.

 

[hemiarch]

Ire?
The Victron Orion TR 48/12-20 or -30 might work for 12V accessories

 

[mstatkus]

No electricity expert here, do you need this device vs a $17 buck converter? Curious

I had that similar thought with just using my ol' Delta 2 with the 48V/400W feed in the front to slow charge it, but the 12V output maybe maxes out at 10A.
AC maybe a 10w burn per hour but 1800w/2400w peak AC.

 

[hemiarch]

I had that similar thought with just using my ol' Delta 2 with the 48V/400W feed in the front to slow charge it, but the 12V output maybe maxes out at 10A.
AC maybe a 10w burn per hour but 1800w/2400w peak AC.

I use an Ecoflow river 2 pro. Need something that has a less than 400w solar input and can accept 48v. There are other options like the Pecron E1000lfp which allows you to limit the solar input to 8amps with manual switch and have much bigger inverters than the river but it fits very nicely in the frunk too. And as an added bonus can accept usb-c charge.

 

[mongo]

That was part I understood
"Just trying not to attract any ire by posting a
different product."
What different product would attract ire? Non-thread sponsor ones?

 

[hemiarch]

That was part I understood
"Just trying not to attract any ire by posting a
different product."
What different product would attract ire? Non-thread sponsor ones?

Well the fella we recently discussed this with seemed very intent on nobody attempting to install his product on the roof feed as we discussed by DM. That particular vendor is one I’ve seen involved in “edited” threads fairly frequently so the ire I’m referring to has to do with allowing this conversation to continue.
That’s why I looked for an alternative product to post but in concept I’d like to do it with that 48v curved bar.

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