Yours was probably just lazy. Mine replaced Front Overhead Console, Sun Visor Track, And Windshield Harness Bracket. There is a procedure in the service manual for replacement and it involves prying off the part that is glued to the windshield and re-gluing the new part.
What service center? Seems like they were feeding you a load of BS.
Yeah, lazy, or incompetent...or both.
Wow, still crazy overcomplicated though when I just fixed it the way I did. I could see that procedure being necessary when something is seriously wrong with the overhead unit, but for a 1-cent plastic clip not grabbing well? Just reshaping the plastic makes way more sense.
From the Tesla service manual, it looks like the back of the overhead console is mounted to the glass with glue. Here in the manual it shows the window replacement, and they showed the overhead display being removed from the original window and then applied to the new one.
That procedure shows the bracket is integral to the windshield and has no removal/ install steps for it. (Note: some windshield photos are pre-production and from other models)From the Tesla service manual, it looks like the back of the overhead console is mounted to the glass with glue. Here in the manual it shows the window replacement, and they showed the overhead display being removed from the original window and then applied to the new one.
I think your service center couldn't find the correct answer and made one up or they are just Lazy.
I know there’s some questionable design choices for the Cybertruck, but it would monumentally stupid if the only way to replace the plastic overhead console would have to include replacing the large and expensive front windshield too.
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ServiceManual/en-us/GUID-28743D4C-E164-4741-8C95-D09F014DC857.html#:~:text=Release datums from <em>windshield</em>.
Good morning sir.That procedure shows the bracket is integral to the windshield and has no removal/ install steps for it. (Note: some windshield photos are pre-production and from other models)
It does for the wire harness which clips on though.
I need to do the very same, may work on that today.
Can you post pics before/after of the bumper repair? I rolled into a concrete post and my bumper is slightly dimpled.Also, for anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
I just added this to the end of the original post as well.
The SC already replaced my cover. Still pulling off. Going to try this when I get back. Probably just need a hot SoCal Day to warm it up enough.I have had this issue since I bought the truck almost a year ago. I have brought it to the service center twice for a fix. The first time they simply stuck double sided tape on it, which did not work at all, and it literally fell back down as soon as I picked my truck up from them. I have just been dealing with it hanging down until I got fed up and recently brought it back in again. This time, they updated my service ticket to bring it back in a third time after they ordered a new windshield replacement since that assembly is permanently attached to the windshield and that was all they could come up with to fix it. Well, both me and the service advisor thought that was stupid as hell to fix a 1-cent plastic clip's failure to hold, but they didn't know what else to do. So, I put some thought into it, especially since my windshield is also tinted with high-quality cermic tint, and Tesla does not reimburse for that.
And I figured it out. I simply heated the female receptical where the clip connects with a heat gun, squeezed it with some pliers, and now the connection is solid as a rock. I notified the service team to cancel the new windshield. See below pics.
The problem:
The service center's 1st attempted "OEM" double sided tape fix:
What the white plastic male clips look like with console removed:
What the overhead female recptacles looked like on the overhead console:
Heating the bottom receptacle with heatgun:
Squeeze with pliers (I used channel-locks) and allowed to cool:
New, tighter, receptacle. I left the top one alone since that was not causing the problem:
It is now snapped back into place and solid as a rock.
Windshield repacement diverted.
EDIT: For anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
