Split the 48v power line to a 12v socket in frunk. It now powers the console fridge INSIDE cabin 😎

[JimBuck333]

One problem with an otherwise impeccable install: you can't run a refrigerator in an unvented space and expect it to get cooler and stay cooler. (In a little while, the air in the remaining airspace in the frunk will get very warm, eventually making its way through the cooler insulation, in a vicious cycle; a runaway process. ) So for tailgating and picnicking, it is great, but not for traveling and cooling simultaneously (assuming ambient temperatures are high enough to justify cooling your stuff in the first place).

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[Zane Edwards]

I finished my recent project: split the frunk 48v power line into 2 12V lines:

- Installed a 12V outlet in the frunk
- Made a custom housing for it to ensure it’s super robust and looks OEM
- Ran it through an electrical 48V-to-12V splitter
- Made 2 parallel lines
- The second line runs the fridge inside.

The results:
- The fridge consumes about 25-30W while cooling down in eco mode (and works indefinitely! either I’m charging or not)
- When I plug in the Blue Yeti power station (as a test), it consumes an additional 80W (110W in total)
- Both lines have fuses: 15A for the fridge’s line and 20A for the 12V outlet

Just finished, and I’m freaking happy with how it came out

PS BTW if you want to do the same thing (which I obviously recommend), I put all the materials, including my 3D files in the description of the video, you are free to use them. 3D files are available for free, it's an easy 3 hour print. And I rewired everything shortly after and it took me just merely 2 hours for everything. It's pretty easy when you know what to do

And the how to video:

IMPRESSIVE.....thanks for sharing

 

[Leo Snow]

So what connectors did you end up using?

I got these ones (after all I needed just 2):
https://amzn.to/47nUVus

But I'm still looking for a pair of good splitters

 

[Leo Snow]

One problem with an otherwise impeccable install: you can't run a refrigerator in an unvented space and expect it to get cooler and stay cooler. (In a little while, the air in the remaining airspace in the frunk will get very warm, eventually making its way through the cooler insulation, in a vicious cycle; a runaway process. ) So for tailgating and picnicking, it is great, but not for traveling and cooling simultaneously (assuming ambient temperatures are high enough to justify cooling your stuff in the first place).

I agree. I routed it to the frunk mostly for external tools, cameras/deones/batteries charging on the go, and similar uses. I don't exclude an extra fridge as a possibility though, but that might be an exception if we have many people camping ...or something like that .

The fridge is inside the truck (a console fridge), and that was the whole reason of splitting the 48v into 2 lines. It's much better this way, to be honest.

So basically, my truck is now divided into different logical zones: the bed is for kitchen storage and camping accessories, the frunk is for charging on the go, the interior is for the fridge and everyday tools/accessories, and the top of the truck/rack is for sleeping (though I haven't picked an RTT yet ).

 

[pricedm]

Thanks for the video and details. I've been considering the in-cabin fridge, but holding off until I saw a clean 12v DC powered system.

Might try this plus another power feed into the cabin for Starlink Mini.

 

[Leo Snow]

Trying to upload the video file here on how I ran the wire thoroug the interior, can't upload it here. it's 18mb, uploaded it in our chat (you don't need to register or do anything the video can be played without it): https://piemessenger.com/g/cybertruck_owners

 

[hemiarch]

Trying to upload the video file here on how I ran the wire thoroug the interior, can't upload it here. it's 18mb, uploaded it in our chat (you don't need to register or do anything the video can be played without it): https://piemessenger.com/g/cybertruck_owners

Thank you

 

[Leo Snow]

No problem, feel free to shoot a message if you have questions, but it's a pretty easy pathway for a wire

 

[Cyberskunk]

The higher end power electronics are more reliable. I got a deal on a open box unit that is pretty much what TS ran for their high power option. It will do up to 430w.

 

[hemiarch]

The higher end power electronics are more reliable. I got a deal on a open box unit that is pretty much what TS ran for their high power option. It will do up to 430w.

I understand victron stuff is supposed to be pretty good. The one I found will only got to 360w. Would you mind sharing a link?

 

[Cyberskunk]

The ebay deals vary..

The max for the CT would be the 48/12-30

This seems to be the best price I see on it now.

https://ebay.us/m/Ha4CLW

 

[hemiarch]

The ebay deals vary..

The max for the CT would be the 48/12-30

This seems to be the best price I see on it now.

https://ebay.us/m/Ha4CLW

Thank you. How do you have yours mounted ?

 

[Cyberskunk]

Temporary, screwed into frunk liner next to the winch battery. I'm working on a hidden mount for the DC/DC converter and a custom battery pack that fits in the winch bumper. I used the frunk L track to mount the batt tray.

 

[Cyberskunk]

The 360W vs 430W rating all depends on the temperature. It's probably the same unit. At 25c its 430W and at 40c its 360W.

 

[mongo]

One problem with an otherwise impeccable install: you can't run a refrigerator in an unvented space and expect it to get cooler and stay cooler. (In a little while, the air in the remaining airspace in the frunk will get very warm, eventually making its way through the cooler insulation, in a vicious cycle; a runaway process. ) So for tailgating and picnicking, it is great, but not for traveling and cooling simultaneously (assuming ambient temperatures are high enough to justify cooling your stuff in the first place).

It's not a runaway process as long as the frunk can lose heat to the environment faster than heat enters the cooled compartment.

The frunk lid is around ten square feet of single layer stainless steel.
Stainless steel has a thermal conductivity of ~14W/mK. At a thickness of 1.8mm (0.0018m), that's an R value of .000125. Mixing units for simplicity: 1/R*10 = 80,000 for thermal transfer

A 24x14x14 cooler is 12 ft² of area. With R-3 insulation, that's 1/3*12 = 4 units of thermal transfer.

The frunk sheds heat 20,000 times better than the cooler gains it. If the cooler wants to be 34 degrees and the world is 90, the air in the frunk needs to be barely over 90 for the cooler to work. As long as it can handle a 56 degree differential (which it should) things will work fine.

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