Powering Accessories Struggles - Don't let this happen to you!

[Ironalley]

I put together a quick video on YouTube showing how to do this install:


I will whip up an article to go with it shortly!
(Please subscribe to YouTube channel and my Blog! Thanks!)

Where did you mount your fuse box?any pics

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[YukonJack]

Post #144 shows a picture of where I mounted the fuse box w/zip ties.

 

[TeslaKen]

Where did you mount your fuse box?any pics

In passenger footwell to the right of ECU, apologies for no pics and I'm out of town currently. I will show alternative way of doing it at some point and post follow up.

 

[Ironalley]

Post #144 shows a picture of where I mounted the fuse box w/zip ties.

Yes I seen yours but it would be hard to access since I have the fridge in place in front.

 

[Ironalley]

In passenger footwell to the right of ECU, apologies for no pics and I'm out of town currently. I will show alternative way of doing it at some point and post follow up.

Ok thks that would be great.

 

[Ironalley]

Ok thks that would be great.

Any update on the fuse block yet Ken ?

 

[TeslaKen]

Any update on the fuse block yet Ken ?

Sorry haven't had any time to work on the truck, hopefully this weekend. I have another alternative that I want to try as well.

 

[Phenmonolimit]

I went the fuse box route as well, and placed in one of those storage boxes underneath the passenger seat. Very easy to get to incase I want to add other accessories.

Appreciate this forum, both Ken and YukonJack for this work around. Really glad to have my speakers back, especially after the news about active noise cancellation.

 

[TeslaKen]

I just went through this same type of thing. By using the power under the passenger kick panel, I could only get the rearview mirror or the 10.88” screen but not both. Whichever was plugged in first worked fine.

I also have the refrigerator sitting in the front floorboard and it’s plugged into the 110 outlet behind the center console.

My work around was this:
1. I plugged the dash screen in under the passenger side kick panel.
2. A outlet surge protector plugged into the plug behind the center console.
2. 12v AC/DC converter, plugged into the second plug behind the console (fridge plugged into other outlet).
3. The DC converter has a cigarette lighter plug, I have an adapter with a USB to USB-C cord that I ran through the dash and up the driver side trip to the mirror.

This was such a PITA because neither of the orgs I bought the products from provided any valuable feedback on how to make things work. It’s clear that neither of their wiring harnesses were passing power from the power connection under the kick panel. I thought about just splicing into the power cable, but didn’t want to risk overloading the circuit (don’t know what I don’t know).

Regardless, I have it working now and. I have the cigarette lighter plugged behind the screen so I do have another USB-C outlet I could use if I want to do something else.

I forgot to ask you, how do you like the refrigerator that sits up front? Was it worth it? Would you buy again?

 

[Airborne Rhino]

Use my fridge all the time. Really like mine

 

[Phenmonolimit]

Use my fridge all the time. Really like mine

Did you connect and run the fridge with the mirror using the same power tap ?

 

[hemiarch]

Likewise. Love my fridge more than just about anything else I’ve added.
Recommend running it dc off the frunk power feed which stays on while level 2 charging and when the car sleeps.

 

[TeslaKen]

I've been digging into this and found out some interesting details on the Audio system tech.

Validate all this for yourself if you decide to do any of this.

First the short term fix for this harness issue is going to be DIY as Hansshow gave me the discount but no timeline for a harness replacement.

1. Remove one of the unused pins from (4, 5, or 12) as they are unused. I haven't done this but without a removal tool you'll likely need some thin metal shims to release these - or - carefully use a super small flathead. Here are the pinout diagram to validate: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0930m/
2. Cut and splice that onto the pin 8 feed that was pulled for the BAT + & ACC splice to the Hansshow power converter.
3. Place that pin back into pin 8 of the of the X0930 male connector. This was the only one left off.

This will provide the pass through need for the tweeter feed to get its digitally multiplexed signal.

The audio system uses a digital network technology developed by Analog Deviced (ADI) called Automotive Audio Bus (A2B). In short its a digitally multiplexed signal overlayed on DC power. Like other systems this tech reduces wiring and costs. The supply going to the A-pillar tweeter must be decoded at the tweeter or somewhere close - I couln't find any reference to where it is.

Hannshow appears to have copied this technique from someone else. There were other suppliers that tapped this connector first. What likely occured is one of these companies was hunting a power tap and found supply on this line and here we are....

I say short term because I don't like the way this was done and don't know if it's degrading anything by pulling more load than intended.

Please note I've added onto this discussion with a new article which can be found here:
https://halocybertruck.com/article-blog/f/cybertruck-accessory-wiring-harness-examination

I plan to update this with yet another article after I test some additional hypothesis.

 

[TeslaKen]

Here is another article in the series, this time examining the X0930M Connector:

X0930M Connector Deep Dive - What's Powering your Accessory?

 

[mongo]

Please note I've added onto this discussion with a new article which can be found here:
https://halocybertruck.com/article-blog/f/cybertruck-accessory-wiring-harness-examination

I plan to update this with yet another article after I test some additional hypothesis.

Pins 8/9 are audio to the passive (no internal electronics) tweeter. They aren't DC power sources.
Any voltage there is because the audio amp in the left control module is biased to that potential.
The amp can put out 12V on both 8 and 9 resulting in 0 volts across the tweeter when idle.
Same speaker is used on other Teslas. One thing to be aware of is the description is "active", but the speaker does not have any decoding or amplifier circuitry. That wording differentiates it from the version with a high pass filter capacitor for "passive" filtering.

For vehicles with active filtering in amplifier section:

For vehicles with full range audio output (base models) :

Signal designations:

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