Offroad Light Bar Installed by Service Center! Menu first look: Ditch Lights & Flood Flights functions

[rlhamil]

It's pretty wild that those power points don't have an actual connector.

Aftermarket light bars or perhaps other things could be attached at the 48V rooftop power (and control, on the 3rd wire) tap. There's probably no universal standard connector for that, and it would have to be both compact and watertight.

"The best part is no part." Makes sense when you don't even know in advance what the right part would be.

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[rlhamil]

Leave it up to Tesla to design some half-ass light bar like this, a
Glued to the windshield? Total joke.

They could have at least had a two-piece install. Maybe glue/seal a backing plate to the windshield, and the light bar itself just attaches to that plate with some set screws and mounting points. Nope, the entire bar just gets caulked to windshield like some Pep Boys after thought.

To top it off, they could easily wire it up but just make you sign some type of waiver that you won't use it on-road. Again, just laziness on Teslas part.

I have a low VIN and won't be installing this piece of crap when I get it soon, so it will be going up for sale asap.

Not a piece of crap, but not anticipating all possible problems either. I wish it had a builtin cover that flips up and clips, or flips down and clips, which would avoid stupid state law hassles.

 

[4Dolio]

Thanks for sharing. I like the low profile nature of the light bar. When I wire up mine I think I'll try to add a plug so it can also power some additional led lights I can attach to my roof rack.

Has anyone seen the power limits of this accessory feed? How many amps can it supply an how many amps does the front and side lights use at full power? I think the front feed can deliver nearly 1000watts, if I'm remembering correctly.

 

[rlhamil]

Thanks for sharing. I like the low profile nature of the light bar. When I wire up mine I think I'll try to add a plug so it can also power some additional led lights I can attach to my roof rack.

Has anyone seen the power limits of this accessory feed? How many amps can it supply an how many amps does the front and side lights use at full power? I think the front feed can deliver nearly 1000watts, if I'm remembering correctly.

Copy/pasted from Owners Manual:

48V Power Feed Specifications
There are two power feeds:

• One power feed is located on the roof (400W maximum draw).
• One power feed is located in the powered frunk (400W maximum draw).

Each power feed operates in the following range:

• Minimum: 28V
• Nominal: 44–50V
• Maximum: 58V

Each power feed contains three wires:
Table 1.

Wire Color	Function
Red with a blue stripe	Positive (+) terminal: Provides 48V power
Green	Provides access to the Local Interconnect Network (LIN)
Roof power feed: Black with a blue stripe Powered frunk power feed: Brown with a blue stripe	Negative (-) terminal: Provides a grounding point

Note
The power feeds are designed to stop providing power when current that exceeds the listed specifications is detected. If a power feed unexpectedly stops providing power, reset them by touching Controls > Outlets & Mods > Reset.
CAUTION
If the wires in the vehicle do not match this information, use the mobile app to schedule a service appointment.

 

[jf64k]

I’m saving my voucher for the light bar and Air Compressor Ultra…if they’re ever in stock, haha!!

 

[4Dolio]

Copy/pasted from Owners Manual:

48V Power Feed Specifications
...

Thanks, found it here, not sure where I got 9xxwatts from. I thought I saw 20 amps and multiplied by 48v, so 960w. But it appears to supply 8.3amps, probably don't want to exceed 8amps.

https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/cybertruck/en_us/GUID-5C33D18C-1DBD-4D8F-83B8-3E7C03D67988.html

Now, just need to know the light bar draw to know how much more is available. But it might not be as simple as 48v on/off as there is the digital line wire... Humm...

 

[TickTock]

There is still plenty of real estate available in front of the light for an aerodynamic cover when freeway driving. Also, it looks like it might be a place where vortex generators would actually provide a benefit (more pressure on the downward sloping roof to offset the drag).

 

[rlhamil]

Thanks, found it here, not sure where I got 9xxwatts from. I thought I saw 20 amps and multiplied by 48v, so 960w. But it appears to supply 8.3amps, probably don't want to exceed 8amps.

https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/cybertruck/en_us/GUID-5C33D18C-1DBD-4D8F-83B8-3E7C03D67988.html

Now, just need to know the light bar draw to know how much more is available. But it might not be as simple as 48v on/off as there is the digital line wire... Humm...

Looking at a 50" Hella (not 48V), 200W. That's just a guess what Tesla's light bar might draw; it might be lower or higher.

I would not want to put two different things on the same 48V line, even if the total wattage was within limit, if either one of them (and definitely not both, but see next paragraph) used the data line. Clearly the Tesla light bar does use the data line, because the hookup directions show connecting that, and because people have said it's dimmable (and implied that it can also run with just the side-most parts for ditch lights). I don't know to what degree the power load is sensed and whether that's sanity checked with behavior the data line commanded, for example.

AFAIK, the only way two or more smart devices could possibly share a single LIN connection wire would be if at least all but the last device supported daisy-chaining (extra wire that goes to the next device, and the smarts to behave correctly), and that the voltage on the power lines was kept constant and satisfactory to both. That may also assume the master LIN controller (a basic part of the vehicle) and relevant vehicle software knows how to deal with that.

Putting a pair of identical dumb lights in parallel on there would probably be ok if the total wattage was within the limit.

The data line CAN be used to identify devices. So I suppose if some dumb device is attached, it can only be controlled under the 48V feeds, but if the known and already in the software Tesla light bar is attached, it identifies the light bar and uses the control signals (and perhaps any ability to vary the voltage) accordingly, and shows it in the GUI specifically as the light bar.

There's also a warning NOT to hook to either 48V connection anything (like solar panels) that tries to feed in power; that could damage the vehicle's electronics.

WARNING: I'm a former IT guy, but not for vehicles. I've read some of the LIN spec (but not all of it), and may or may not be understanding it correctly. I've also read the Cybertruck Owner's Manual (all of it), but might be misunderstanding something there too. Consult an applicable expert if you're considering doing anything unusual (including but not limited to what I may have mentioned above).

 

[jf64k]

OP, lay some light up action on us!!

We’re dying over here, haha!!

 

[Jcoverton]

Looking at a 50" Hella (not 48V), 200W. That's just a guess what Tesla's light bar might draw; it might be lower or higher.

I would not want to put two different things on the same 48V line, even if the total wattage was within limit, if either one of them (and definitely not both, but see next paragraph) used the data line. Clearly the Tesla light bar does use the data line, because the hookup directions show connecting that, and because people have said it's dimmable (and implied that it can also run with just the side-most parts for ditch lights). I don't know to what degree the power load is sensed and whether that's sanity
checked with behavior the data line commanded, for example.

AFAIK, the only way two or more smart devices could possibly share a single LIN connection wire would be if at least all but the last device supported daisy-chaining (extra wire that goes to the next device, and the smarts to behave correctly), and that the voltage on the power lines was kepconstant and satisfactory to both. That may also assume the master LIN controller (a basic part of the vehicle) and relevant vehicle software knows how to deal with that.

Putting a pair of identical dumb lights in parallel on there would probably be ok if the total wattage was within the limit.

The data line CAN be used to identify devices. So I suppose if some dumb device is attached, it can only be controlled under the 48V feeds, but if the known and already in the software Tesla light bar is attached, it identifies the light bar and uses the control signals (and perhaps any ability to vary the voltage) accordingly, and shows it in the GUI specifically as the light bar.

There's also a warning NOT to hook to either 48V connection anything (like solar panels) that tries to feed in power; that could damage the vehicle's electronics.

WARNING: I'm a former IT guy, but not for vehicles. I've read some of the LIN spec (but not all of it), and may or may not be understanding it correctly. I've also read the Cybertruck Owner's Manual (all of it), but might be misunderstanding something there too. Consult an applicable expert if you're considering doing anything unusual (including but not limited to what I may have mentioned above).

I have the Starlink Mini and roof rack mount. I want to share the 48v between the light bar and the mini. The mini runs on 12-48v low wattage. I asked Starlink if the Cybertruck 48v would work and they suggested a dc-dc converter to 12v or 24v as the Cybertruck can provide 58v max. If the light bar was smart and only turned on when commanded on the data wire it would be perfect. Then I could power the Starlink and turn on the light only when I need it. I am waiting to see the interface and light demo to find out.

 

[rlhamil]

I have the Starlink Mini and roof rack mount. I want to share the 48v between the light bar and the mini. The mini runs on 12-48v low wattage. I asked Starlink if the Cybertruck 48v would work and they suggested a dc-dc converter to 12v or 24v as the Cybertruck can provide 58v max. If the light bar was smart and only turned on when commanded on the data wire it would be perfect. Then I could power the Starlink and turn on the light only when I need it. I am waiting to see the interface and light demo to find out.

The regulated converter definitely sounds like a good idea if hooking up to the 48V, although it wouldn't likely fit somewhere hidden, so it would have to be weatherproof.

A smart (3 wire) device MIGHT co-exist with a constant draw dumb (two wire) device, i.e. the converter, wired in parallel to the power. But I wouldn't bet on either device being happy with that.

People have reported success with a back seat passenger side inside roof mount (mounting tape? I don't recall). Or with putting the antenna on the dash, preferably behind the touchscreen. I like that the inside roof mount is less obvious, but otherwise I think the dash placement is neater and perhaps benefits from the dash angle. I think I'd prefer the antenna inside rather than outside, for various reasons (weather, harder for someone to steal, etc).

 

[Deleted member 17810]

Aftermarket light bars or perhaps other things could be attached at the 48V rooftop power (and control, on the 3rd wire) tap. There's probably no universal standard connector for that, and it would have to be both compact and watertight.

"The best part is no part." Makes sense when you don't even know in advance what the right part would be.

But, they know their light bar will be connected there.

If anyone needs to use the power feed they can snip it if they're gonna be splicing anyways.

The best part is no part*

*because it's cheaper.

 

[Cyberbully]

Tesla better not void any part of our electrical or Lightbar warranty because we “wired in the Lightbar ourselves”

 

[Guylouis]

Night pics?

 

[rlhamil]

Tesla better not void any part of our electrical or Lightbar warranty because we “wired in the Lightbar ourselves”

This is NOT about Tesla trying to screw us. It IS about they showed a light bar on the prototype, so to deal with varying and sometimes intrusive and obnoxious state laws, this is all their lawyers will let them do.

That said, be sure to follow instructions carefully if you DIY.

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