Can you run Starlink mini on the 48v power feed?

[mongo]

Well the fella we recently discussed this with seemed very intent on nobody attempting to install his product on the roof feed as we discussed by DM. That particular vendor is one I’ve seen involved in “edited” threads fairly frequently so the ire I’m referring to has to do with allowing this conversation to continue.
That’s why I looked for an alternative product to post but in concept I’d like to do it with that 48v curved bar.

Oh, I partly ran the test due to them.

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[hemiarch]

Oh, I partly ran the test due to their attitude .

Out of ire?

 

[mongo]

Out of ire?

Never, it's limitless.
One might even say I have ancestors from ire-land.

 

[hemiarch]

So do you think if wired that way it (parallel with the oem bar) it would come on with the ditch lights, the flood lights or both? I can’t tell how the oem bar knows the difference. Different voltage or just some switch signal in the green wire?

 

[mongo]

So do you think if wired that way it (parallel with the oem bar) it would come on with the ditch lights, the flood lights or both? I can’t tell how the oem bar knows the difference. Different voltage or just some switch signal in the green wire?

Any light mode activates the roof feed, even if you set it to 0% brightness. The six segment intensities are commanded via the green LIN wire.
The module I'm working on could enable other loads based on specific settings, or via Bluetooth.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

So I’ll ask a (potentially) really stupid question now. I had an extra OEM Starlink power cable so I sliced it open to take a look. Looks like this inside, with a group of wires in a red sleeve and a group of wires with no sleeve.

Could this be spliced into the frunk feed? With the red-sleeved wires spliced to red and the no-sleeved wires spliced to black?

I cannot tell if there are multiple connectors in the red-sleeved wiring. Based on experience I’d bet that there probably are multiple conductors in the red-sleeve. The mesh wiring underneath the very outer sheath is usually for RF-shielding that is connected to ground and in addition to signal sheilding it provides structural strength. It would not be typical to connect this as a return path for a DC voltage. I would look at how many separate conductors there are bundled in the red sheath or elsewhere in the cable. I hope this is helpful.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

So do you think if wired that way it (parallel with the oem bar) it would come on with the ditch lights, the flood lights or both? I can’t tell how the oem bar knows the difference. Different voltage or just some switch signal in the green wire?

As you know, the 48 volt feed is a supply voltage. It doesn’t carry any intelligence. The 48 volt supply will keep supplying 48 volts (if toggled “on” from the touchscreen) until turned off OR surpassing 400 watts.

The green LIN wire sends an intelligent digital signal to the lightbar for turning ON/OFF, level of brightness, and whether the ditch and/or front LEDs should be lit.

The red and black wires are comparable to water behind a dam, providing a potential. The green wire is comparable to how that water is specifically released and used, providing instructions on how the potential from the red and black is implemented.

 

[ABILISK]

I successfully got my mini running from the frunk feed. I used the OEM cable (cut to size) directly to this converter wired into the frunk feed. Super stable connection so far, but I’ve only driven it about 60 miles. I’ll update if any problems arise, but it seems solid and way better than having crossbars over the bed and plugged into the bed outlets.

 

[hemiarch]

I successfully got my mini running from the frunk feed. I used the OEM cable (cut to size) directly to this converter wired into the frunk feed. Super stable connection so far, but I’ve only driven it about 60 miles. I’ll update if any problems arise, but it seems solid and way better than having crossbars over the bed and plugged into the bed outlets.

Why the step down converter? Will the 48v feed fry it?

 

[ABILISK]

Why the step down converter? Will the 48v feed fry it?

After lots of research, I decided I couldn’t tell. Probably not, but possibly, so I went the safe route. Is it necessary? Still not sure, but this seems to work well, and $28 for peace of mind seemed worth it.

 

[hemiarch]

After lots of research, I decided I couldn’t tell. Probably not, but possibly, so I went the safe route. Is it necessary? Still not sure, but this seems to work well, and $28 for peace of mind seemed worth it.

Makes sense. The spec sheet is very confusing on this and it’s the main reason I haven’t done it yet.

 

[mongo]

The $18 12V version should work also.

 

[Trekboy]

Just got my Starlink Mini and tried a suction cup mount on rear glass. I did not try the 48V route, but did try USB-C directly into CT, USB-C buffering through a 100W battery bank - and that plugged into CT, and lastly, plugged into the 120V AC outlet in the rear. For me, if I need to set up quick and easy emergency coms for 4wheeling, it'll be the 120v AC. Most reliable, easy setup.

 

[ABILISK]

For ultimate ease
https://www.cybertruckownersclub.co...nk-the-ultimate-solution.49545/#post-30685662

 

[loki]

I power both my Starlink and my light bar off 48vdc roof feed I put a water proof switch in both of them so I can manually switch between the two same powefeel parallel or run them both same time. My light bar is 300 watt Starlink mini is 60 watt so max roof power feed is 400 watt

Do you have the products and/or picture of your set up?

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