110V to 12V ac to dc converter question

[Vegetaban]

My mom uses an electrical wheel chair and I am looking at this hoist that would normally connect to a battery in an ICE car. Since we have the normal wall outlets in the bed I was thinking about getting this transformer instead of lugging around a battery to operate it.

Anyone have experience using something like this?

transformer

https://www.amazon.com/Version-Conv...e-Transformer/dp/B0B9SDT7SH/ref=sr_1_7?sr=8-7

Wheelchair hoist manual, just connects to a normal battery
https://www.spinlife.com/files/AL055_065 Manual.pdf

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[tmeyer3]

Manual says 20a 12v dc. 240W AC to DC is all you need. So yes, you're good to go with that Amazon solution

 

[Vegetaban]

Manual says 20a 12v dc. 240W AC to DC is all you need. So yes, you're good to go with that Amazon solution

Thank you very much!

 

[OMFG]

For running Offroad lighting I installed a buck converter (layman term for step down transformer) under bedside and a remote relay to turn on/off the 4 outputs. Works awesome and I can flip on/off any of the 5 lights I have with a button click. I left the factory 48v leads alone till more lighting for that voltage comes out. The transformer will work great for your need.

Added additional pics as requested by CT_AZ. Note: ty-wraps in the rear pick were temp there for install, those have been replaced with t-slot wire holders that keep the power lead to lights tucked up into the rail itself so it isn't hanging out or causing unwanted wind noise. You can find them on any sight that sales t-rails for gaming pc or racing sim rigs.

 

[Vegetaban]

I will post updates when I install this.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

My mom uses an electrical wheel chair and I am looking at this hoist that would normally connect to a battery in an ICE car. Since we have the normal wall outlets in the bed I was thinking about getting this transformer instead of lugging around a battery to operate it.

Anyone have experience using something like this?

transformer

https://www.amazon.com/Version-Conv...e-Transformer/dp/B0B9SDT7SH/ref=sr_1_7?sr=8-7

Wheelchair hoist manual, just connects to a normal battery
https://www.spinlife.com/files/AL055_065 Manual.pdf

You could also run a tie-in from your 48 volt roof accessory line to a buck converter in the bed and then have a 12 volt power source of up to 400 watts.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

For running Offroad lighting I installed a buck converter (layman term for step down transformer) under bedside and a remote relay to turn on/off the 4 outputs. Works awesome and I can flip on/off any of the 5 lights I have with a button click. I left the factory 48v leads alone till more lighting for that voltage comes out. The transformer will work great for your need.

Great job! Would you take a daytime photo of your lights? Are they just on a crossbar on the roof? It looks like you tied into the a-c of your truck. Did you need to remove the truck bed to do this install? You mounted directly into the cast frame? Did you make a pilot hole and a threader or did you use a self-tapping metal screw? Your remote relay is wireless? I appreciate you taking the time to post and reply to my multiple questions.

Freakin’ outstanding!

 

[OMFG]

Great job! Would you take a daytime photo of your lights? Are they just on a crossbar on the roof? It looks like you tied into the a-c of your truck. Did you need to remove the truck bed to do this install? You mounted directly into the cast frame? Did you make a pilot hole and a threader or did you use a self-tapping metal screw? Your remote relay is wireless? I appreciate you taking the time to post and reply to my multiple questions.

Freakin’ outstanding!

CT_AZ_4x4:

Thanks for the questions! This is a long reply, but hopefully this helps answer your questions (in order of sequence asked) and/or provides ideas for others if interested. I will attach some more pics (and the links to everything I mention purchasing below if interested) with another update/edit once I can get the pics from phone).

1. I have just a simple 40" single row bar on front rail. I bought it for the middle rail to face the rear but Tesla still won't sell me the factory one yet so I just have the smaller 40" on the front rail facing forward for now. The side lights are actually cheap rock lights I bought from Harbor Freight, but I got these b/c a guy on Etsy makes molded mounts for them so they bolt up to an L-track (for overlanding rigs). Even though they are from HF, they work great and they are cheap! lol.

2. The lights are just on the cross bars/side rails. I have the MARS cross bars (set of 4, but only front 3 installed so I can get mtl, packouts, or whatever loaded easy). I also have the MARS side bars and that is what the side lights are on. I bought L-Track rubber inserts from amazon to fill in all the cross bar extrusion gaps and it greatly reduced the wind noise. On my 3rd rail I have the MARS expedition accessory mount for a weBoost Drive Reach Overland antenna I plan to mount (booster will go under side panel as well). I already ran the power lead for that as well, just got to buy the weBoost to get it installed).

3. I did tie into the 120v a/c in the truck bed, but the reason wasn't for keeping the amp load small or anything. It was actually for being able to very quickly turn on/off the lights vs. fumbling with the screen to go to controls then turn on/off the 48v. I drive often on back Tx highways and FM roads and I use the front light bar to ensure I can see a long way off if any deer/hogs/cattle that may jump out in front of me but running a light bar on-road is a big risk if it is hilly or curvy and if car comes up quickly I need to be able to immediately turn off lights, not fumble with the screen to flip the on/off as I normally leave screen on nav mode (not to mention it is illegal as heck and a GW or State Trooper will nail you quick for it). A secondary reason I used the 120v is that I can leave on the 120v for 12hrs with the truck off and when I am out at my ranch I can still use the lighting from the truck as needed if I am a distance away cutting brush, filling feeders, or whatever without needing to carry another area light with me. The side lights are awesome for this, like area camp lighting if you will...the mounts for the rock lights are angled for this.

4. I did have to remove the truck side panel. To do this you have to remove the smugglers bay lid, then the floor plate in front that sits above the air suspension compressor, then you can remove the side panel. There is lots of open space under the side panels. I actually though about how I could cut in some storage areas (like Ram does with their beds kinda). But removing the stuff was easy and looks way more complicated than it is.

5. I did mount the waterproof buck converter and the remote control relay directly to the cast frame as it gave me a good flat areas where I could ensure nothing could move around or come loose over time. After mounting them I then did the wiring. The converter is a 400w 120vac to 12vdc and has two 12v outputs, each rated at 33amps. The remote relay is a Blazer Off-Road lighting remote kit I got from Northern Tool, they are made so you don't have to go through firewalls or cabs of your jeeps/trucks to mount toggle switches. No way was I punching through rear of cab or doing something cheesy like trying to hide the remote lead in the door seal then under carpet etc.

6. For mounting the convertor and remote relay, I thought about self-taping but decided the better approach was to drill pilot hole and then used stainless machine screws with locknuts and red thread locker on other side. This way I could ensure they stayed in place.

7. The remote relay is/has an actual remote. Range is typically much further (100ft) when you don't have it under bulletproof stainless or bedside lol, but I think I can still control all the lights from maybe 30-40ft away and the remote itself is really small so it can fit anywhere.

 

[OMFG]

Links as mentioned in my long post above:

weBoost Reach OTR (this one is the best IMO b/c the attenna is designed to fold and lay flat when not needed or bushhogging trails, carwashes, etc): Drive Reach OTR Cell Phone Signal Booster - weBoost

Blazer Off-Road Lighting Remote: CWL622 | LED Off-Road Lighting / Accessories | Products | Blazer-International

LLTOP Waterproof 400W LED Driver 110/120VAC to 12VDC: LLTOP LED Driver 400 Watts 110V/120V AC to 12V DC 33.3A Power Supply Waterproof Low Voltage Transformer Converter for Indoor Outdoor LED Lights - Amazon.com

Rocklight Camp Light Mounts: Harbor Freight Roadshock Ironman Angled Rock Light Camp Light Mount for 8020 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion - Etsy

Habor Freight Roadshock Rock Lights: 12V Utility/Rock White LED Light, 2 Pack

Mars Cross Rails, Side Rails, Mounts, etc: Products – MarsAG

Cross Rail (3030 Extrusion basically) Rubber Inserts: BLCCLOY 4 Meters 8mm 3030 Series 1515 15 Series Aluminum Extrusion 8mm Aluminum Profile Slot Cover Flat Seal for 8mm Slot Seal Strip 30mm x 30mm and 1.5 inch x 1.5 inch Aluminum Extrusion Rail-Black: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

Dude you are a rockstar. Thank you for taking the time to post all this great information!

 

[OMFG]

Dude you are a rockstar. Thank you for taking the time to post all this great information!

Forgot to send you the daytime pics of lights mounted so you could see them. I will add to prior post with other nighttime pics.

 

[Vegetaban]

Installed the AL065 hoist from Harmar today for easier wheelchair loading.

The tailgate's size meant the post interfered, so I added a 12-inch hitch extender to make it work seamlessly.

Drilling holes in the post was a breeze thanks to the bed outlets – just laid the pole down and used a power drill right there. No hassle!

Here’s a video of the rain interrupting me. And a quick video of how it works.

Tomorrow, I'll mount the attachments on the wheelchair and test it out. Planning to 3D print a custom holder for the post using the Molle panels.

 

[Vegetaban]

I was having trouble loading the longer video, so here it is in a link on YouTube. I’m going to make a more in-depth video later.

Cybertruck AL065

 

[Feederi]

You could also run a tie-in from your 48 volt roof accessory line to a buck converter in the bed and then have a 12 volt power source of up to 400 watts.

Go ahead and get the 600 watt 50 amp unit. It’s the same price

 

[Edphonse]

I have an anker solix c300 installed in my CT that charges off of usb-c (60 watts) which is always on regardless of charging status and outputs usb a, usb c, 12v dc cigarette lighter, and 3x 120 volt ac outlets (300 watts continuous, 600 watts surge). It is always on in my CT keeping my center console fridge always at the right temp (draws about 45-50 watts when the compressor turns on). So my usb-c port basically powers my fridge now.

It recently went on sale on Amazon too.

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