220 and powering my home via dryer 220 outlet I have a cable that I used for my gas generator. I could plug it directly to my Cybertruck ?

[cybercricket]

pretty certain this is the holdup on solar + PowerShare. The inverter can only go one way at a time and thus if you generate power outside it you’re likely to over generate and *something* will have to sink the energy created. I’d rather that not be my microinverters.

The issue wouldn't be that the onboard inverter would "overgenerate", the issue would be with the other system (grid-tied solar) that's not designed to regulate its output. So yes, two things need to happen - CT needs to produce the sine wave while sinking excess generation, and also employ frequency shifting to shutdown the grid-tied system when battery approaches the charge limit.
Hopefully it's just a software enhancement that needs to happen.

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[NICKEM]

Does anyone have any information as to powering my home via The 220 outlet in vault? And back power ring the house only a cable going to the dryer vent outlet. Does anyone out there give me info? I have the cable that I used for my gas powered generator.

 

[NICKEM]

If you do this, remember you must disconnect from the outside power supply. If you have a main disconnect it should be in the off position... I assume you know this since you said you used a gas power generator to power your house in the past. If you don't disconnect from the main power supply, you will probably melt the CT if the power comes back on from your power company.

 

[cybercricket]

If you do this, remember you must disconnect from the outside power supply. If you have a main disconnect it should be in the off position... I assume you know this since you said you used a gas power generator to power your house in the past. If you don't disconnect from the main power supply, you will probably melt the CT if the power comes back on from your power company.

Protection should trip before anything melts. Like it was mentioned earlier in the thread, in the absence of a transfer switch to isolate from the city power one should have the interlock installed on the generator inlet breaker. Interlocks are available for a variety of panels and typically cost less than $20, and can even be 3D printed. If an electrician installed the generator inlet for the entire house, they would have added the interlock. If the person has done it themselves, then they should be able to add the interlock as it's not a rocket science.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=interlock&crid=2U2SACZ3J5S8P&sprefix=interlo,aps,253&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

[NICKEM]

What is the best cable to use?

You need at a cable that will carry 40 amps. // and try not to use the oven while this is hooked up.

 

[Garee]

Thanks for the advice

 

[JerseyMike]

need the folowing (I think)

interlock with exterior 30amp twist lock box

adapter like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORK...mp-Locking-Connector-S1450L1430-018/303873832

30 amp twist lock cable in the length you need to get to the exterior box


I used this with my lightning and it worked, just go the adapter for my tesla (lightning had 30amp twist lock in the bed) so will try it this week

 

[Carlos Thomas]

 

[cybercricket]

need the folowing (I think)

interlock with exterior 30amp twist lock box

adapter like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORK...mp-Locking-Connector-S1450L1430-018/303873832

30 amp twist lock cable in the length you need to get to the exterior box


I used this with my lightning and it worked, just go the adapter for my tesla (lightning had 30amp twist lock in the bed) so will try it this week

Why 30A though ?

These are the 50A components I use:
https://www.amazon.com/RVMATE-Pre-Drilling-Generator-SS2-50P-Waterproof/dp/B09VBD946C/
https://www.amazon.com/Extension-SS2-50R-Twist-Locking-Female，125V-Motorhome/dp/B08GHG5P75/

And naturally a 50A breaker in the panel.

Not that exact cable, but a similar one. The plugs on them are a very tight fit because of how low the outlet is mounted in the bed. I haven't seen a cable like that with a straight plug instead of a 90, but I've seen the short adapters (though extra $$) :

https://www.amazon.com/Parkworld-Extension-14-50P-Straight-Generator/dp/B09P7XGPYV/

Edit: I guess the same company makes this cable https://www.amazon.com/Parkworld-Extension-Adapter-Straight-Generator/dp/B09Q2WHKQR/

 

[JerseyMike]

Good point, guess you could use 50amp but the CT only puts out 30 I think…7200 watts

 

[JerseyMike]

Correction up to 40 amps so you are right might need a 50 amp inlet and breaker

 

[mongo]

Correction up to 40 amps so you are right might need a 50 amp inlet and breaker

Yah, 50A is correct for continuous loads (>3hr) which get an 125% adjustment factor.

 

[UDO]

I have a setup just like the one in the video. (Interlock, Generator inlet plug, 50amp cord)

I have used it several times to power the house during blackouts over the last year without issue.

Lost power this morning and set it all up, but for some reason the truck keeps going into a fault every time I connect it to the break panel and asks to be reset on the screen.

I’ve tested the truck’s outlets and they all seem fine.

But the truck throws a fault every time I try to power even a single circuit in the breaker box.

Did Tesla put something in the holiday update to prevent us from using our trucks like backup generators? Or am I missing something?

 

[UDO]

False alarm and mystery solved.

I tore into the wiring for my Generator input plug and found that one of the wires was a little loose.

I tightened it down and everything is working perfectly.

Turns out the Cybertruck was probably detecting an issue and may have very well prevent my house from burning down.

Just another good example of why I’m never buying another vehicle that’s not a Tesla.

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