ClearVu rear camera washer for Cybertruck!

[HaulingAss]

Probably dependent where you live. In Vegas after the rain and wind you can barely make out what’s on camera. Even during AP or FSD you’ll get a notification of cameras blocked. Obviously this can be remedied by cleaning the camera yourself. But in a car that relies so heavily on cameras, this should have been designed with a washer (even the fender cameras) from the beginning.

I'm often travelling on shitty roads with de-icer applied, slush, dirt, sand, mud, and lots of rain. When I wax my car I buff a little wax on the camera lens. That reduces the surface tension of water on the lens and reduces smearing of the image. Sure, its still blurry, and chlorides and dirt can still adhere, but I can see all I need to be able to use it to drive with. Driving safely is not rocket science, or a photo contest, you just need to know where the other cars in the vicinity are.

Sponsored

 

[CyberGus]

easy fix

 

[TwiztOG43]

There are some hydrophobic solutions on the market (and probably a CT specific one in the works).

If you’re referring to the AbstractOcean hydrophobic lens covers, they have to be replaced every couple months and not a permanent solution.

I'm often travelling on shitty roads with de-icer applied, slush, dirt, sand, mud, and lots of rain. When I wax my car I buff a little wax on the camera lens. That reduces the surface tension of water on the lens and reduces smearing of the image. Sure, its still blurry, and chlorides and dirt can still adhere, but I can see all I need to be able to use it to drive with. Driving safely is not rocket science, or a photo contest, you just need to know where the other cars in the vicinity are.

I haven’t used wax in years. On my current vehicles I have PPF and ceramic coatings so I usually just go through car washes. I have tried rain x on the lenses, but it does not last long.

as for the truck, I’m not sure wax would apply.

 

[HaulingAss]

I haven’t used wax in years. On my current vehicles I have PPF and ceramic coatings so I usually just go through car washes. I have tried rain x on the lenses, but it does not last long.

as for the truck, I’m not sure wax would apply.

I can see why you have a problem then. I was just telling you what works for me.

Why do you doubt wax would apply to the Cybertruck? I've always loved the way that wax maintains all kinds of bare metal finishes with minimal effort. Wax makes it easier to remove dirt, insects and road tar from vehicles. It's super easy to apply to a clean vehicle and lasts multiple washings if a compatible car wash shampoo is used to wash it.

I'm not trying to say it's for everyone, just that it's my personal favorite and I plan to use it on Cybertruck to make it easier to maintain. Most people think wax is to give a finish a deeper shine, I use it to repel contaminants, make it easy to clean and fill the micropores that all cars have. There are application tricks to get a more durable wax coating but I'm not going to go into that here except to say that most tins of wax sold in most auto stores are complete crap.

Chemistry is fun.

 

[TwiztOG43]

I can see why you have a problem then. I was just telling you what works for me.

Why do you doubt wax would apply to the Cybertruck? I've always loved the way that wax maintains all kinds of bare metal finishes with minimal effort. Wax makes it easier to remove dirt, insects and road tar from vehicles. It's super easy to apply to a clean vehicle and lasts multiple washings if a compatible car wash shampoo is used to wash it.

I'm not trying to say it's for everyone, just that it's my personal favorite and I plan to use it on Cybertruck to make it easier to maintain. Most people think wax is to give a finish a deeper shine, I use it to repel contaminants, make it easy to clean and fill the micropores that all cars have. There are application tricks to get a more durable wax coating but I'm not going to go into that here except to say that most tins of wax sold in most auto stores are complete crap.

Chemistry is fun.

I can see why you have a problem then. I was just telling you what works for me.

Why do you doubt wax would apply to the Cybertruck? I've always loved the way that wax maintains all kinds of bare metal finishes with minimal effort. Wax makes it easier to remove dirt, insects and road tar from vehicles. It's super easy to apply to a clean vehicle and lasts multiple washings if a compatible car wash shampoo is used to wash it.

I'm not trying to say it's for everyone, just that it's my personal favorite and I plan to use it on Cybertruck to make it easier to maintain. Most people think wax is to give a finish a deeper shine, I use it to repel contaminants, make it easy to clean and fill the micropores that all cars have. There are application tricks to get a more durable wax coating but I'm not going to go into that here except to say that most tins of wax sold in most auto stores are complete crap.

Chemistry is fun.

From my understanding wax usually does not last too long in very hot climates such as Vegas. The temps can get up to 117-118f but surface temps get much higher than that. Most detail shops recommend other synthetics instead of wax, especially during the summer months.

 

[HaulingAss]

From my understanding wax usually does not last too long in very hot climates such as Vegas. The temps can get up to 117-118f but surface temps get much higher than that. Most detail shops recommend other synthetics instead of wax, especially during the summer months.

I didn't recommend wax for you, I was telling you what worked for me. The hottest it ever gets around here is a bit over 100F, and that's during a real heat wave.

I will be using a synthetic wax on the Cybertruck. It's still a wax, just not of natural origin. It has a higher melting temperature (close to 200F) and a much smaller micro-crystaline structure than natural waxes like carnauba.

I don't know why you doubted wax would apply to the Cybertruck?

 

[TwiztOG43]

I didn't recommend wax for you, I was telling you what worked for me. The hottest it ever gets around here is a bit over 100F, and that's during a real heat wave.

I will be using a synthetic wax on the Cybertruck. It's still a wax, just not of natural origin. It has a higher melting temperature (close to 200F) and a much smaller micro-crystaline structure than natural waxes like carnauba.

I don't know why you doubted wax would apply to the Cybertruck?

I don’t doubt it, I just don’t see the point considering there is no paint to protect, not to mention it doesn’t make it any less of a finger print magnet. Not to mention all of the plastics you would have to avoid

 

[HaulingAss]

I don’t doubt it, I just don’t see the point considering there is no paint to protect, not to mention it doesn’t make it any less of a finger print magnet. Not to mention all of the plastics you would have to avoid

The wax I'm using doesn't have any of those issues. It works on plastic trim, if you don't want to use more formulated products. Wax can protect bare metal too. Think of it as "conditioning the metal". The exact speed at which the wax coating will gradually diminish in thickness over several months' time depends upon the environment. But even after most of it has been eroded, wax will remain embeded in the pores of the metal for a much longer time, protecting the pores of the metal from undesirable contaminates, making it wash up easier for months to come.

I've never been worried about normal fingerprints, it's not a show truck to me. Although I would be shocked if it became a regular occasion for someone with really oily hands put them all over for no apparent reasons. Even that would be one of the mildest forms of vandalism I can even conceive of. Done by a child it could be considered an act of God.

Waxing the metal will diminish, but not eliminate normal fingerprints. That said, the amount of worry over a few fingerprints has me scratching my head. Am I in an alternate reality? Who really worries themselves with normal fingerprints on anything? I've been very concerned about a lot of things in life, fingerprints never led the charge. That said, if that's your thing you shouldn't bury it.

 

[Merle]

I don’t doubt it, I just don’t see the point considering there is no paint to protect, not to mention it doesn’t make it any less of a finger print magnet. Not to mention all of the plastics you would have to avoid

Reminds me of people who add a salt coat to plastic, calling it ceramic and thinking it’s going to protect.

“We are going to paint the metal to help reduce oxidation. We are adding a primer layer to help the paint adhere to the metal. We will add a clear coat paint layer to protect the pigment paint layer. We will add a plastic layer called PPF to protect the multi layers of paint. Let’s add a, call it ceramic but we know it’s the same common ingredient as various salts and absorbtion packets, to coat the plastic layer”

Then what, a “nano” or “wax” layer to protect the ceramic protecting the plastic protecting the clearcoat protecting the pigment protecting the primer protecting the metal?

 

[Beyond]

I didn't recommend wax for you, I was telling you what worked for me. The hottest it ever gets around here is a bit over 100F, and that's during a real heat wave.

I will be using a synthetic wax on the Cybertruck. It's still a wax, just not of natural origin. It has a higher melting temperature (close to 200F) and a much smaller micro-crystaline structure than natural waxes like carnauba.

I don't know why you doubted wax would apply to the Cybertruck?

What wax are you using that you recommend? Would like to try it.

 

[Gigahorse]

i am a little confused, i never washed my existing car rear camera for like 10 years, it still is kind of clear when i backup. Is it because CT rear camera location different from other cars?

Two factors.
1. Due to the air flow around the truck the CT camera gets a lot more dirt
2. There is no rear view mirror visibility on the truck, unlike the S,3,X,Y which have good visibility with the mirror.

 

[Gigahorse]

What wax are you using that you recommend? Would like to try it.

Some substances can damage the cameras or interfere with their function and Tesla advises against it.
Good news is that Tesla will likely release a factory washer for the rear camera soon based on current feedback.

 

[HaulingAss]

What wax are you using that you recommend? Would like to try it.

On painted cars, my favorite (to date) is Collinite Super Double-Coat (no. 476s). I've tried more expensive auto waxes, and some of them do have advantages, particularly if you are after more of a "wet look" gloss, but I use it for ease of care and the Collinite is more durable. But it's still a natural carnauba wax and is easy and fast to use as soon as you learn it's characteristics.

You can find it cheaper than this, but I'm including this link because Autogeek has a good description of it:

Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax No. 476 (autogeek.net)

Collinite can leave a haze on plastic, for those areas I prefer P21S:
Amazon.com: P21S 12700W Carnauba Wax : Automotive

This is a great wax because it "feeds" paint nicely, it's just not that durable. I don't think I'll be using it on the Cybertruck, maybe on the plastic trim like the fenders, more likely I'll apply a plastic protectant that feeds the plastic and has UV inhibitors (if I don't just use the Renaissance Wax). I don't go overboard with products like this but it does help to condition new plastics right from the start.

The Collinite would work a treat on the bare metal of the Cybertruck but I've been testing a synthetically derived wax that is promising to be better. A tiny bit goes a long way. Obviously, I haven't tried it on Cybertruck panels, but I am starting some test patches of it on my Model 3. I've also used it on plastic, wood, and bare metals to see how it reacts and I'm impressed so far.

Renaissance Wax | Microcrystalline Polish (highlandwoodworking.com)

It's not a new product, it has a long and mostly good reputation in the art and antiques world, for preserving bare metals, outdoor sculptures, wood, stone, etc. from oxidation. Apparently, the wax is finer grained than natural waxes (on an atomic level) and is a better oxygen barrier (without being absolute, obviously). It is firm/hard in the can but nicely "greasy" so it transfers easily to your applicator without excess. Multiple sources claim that it is more durable than carnauba, but my testing is far too recent to confirm.

It's blended with a solvent that is more volatile than solvents used in Collinite and other premium carnauba waxes so it dries very fast and application is simply wipe it on super thin, it spreads so easily I couldn't believe it, and immediately buff it off with a clean microfiber before it dries. I tried it at 42 degrees and high humidity, and it dried in under a minute, so work small areas quickly and just keep moving. Most waxes I've used harden more slowly under cold, high humidity conditions, so I'll be interested to see how it behaves under warmer/drier conditions. Apparently, multiple coats can be applied with only 30 minutes between coats. I plan on doing this initially to "condition" the metal. After that, just wash it with a non-aggressive soap and, every few washes renew the wax with a quick wipe and buff. Even if you neglect to add more wax as time passes, the wax initially applied should keep the metal more conditioned for over a year, better than the bare metal would otherwise be.

Like all waxes, I would recommend nitrile gloves when applying (although I often just irresponsibly speed through it without bothering). I might be more likely to wear protective gloves when doing large items like the Cybertruck because it does seem like the solvent (white spirits) might a bit more volatile and likely to draw through the skin more easily. The manufacturer claims the smaller micro-crystaline nature locks the solvents in (until applied) and thus the shelf life is indefinite without hardening and drying out. The solvents are plastic safe.

Some retailers of this wax have claimed it cleans too. I wouldn't use it that way. Start with a clean surface, especially when first used.

I plan to try both Collinite and Renaissance wax on my Cybertruck but early results make me think I will prefer the Renaissance wax. The 200 ml size seems appropriate for my uses as you barely need to use any at all although the small opening size of the metal can may be problematic for doing large surfaces as quickly as desired. I will find a way to deal with that, just not sure what it will be yet.

 

[Beyond]

On painted cars, my favorite (to date) is Collinite Super Double-Coat (no. 476s). I've tried more expensive auto waxes, and some of them do have advantages, particularly if you are after more of a "wet look" gloss, but I use it for ease of care and the Collinite is more durable. But it's still a natural carnauba wax and is easy and fast to use as soon as you learn it's characteristics.

You can find it cheaper than this, but I'm including this link because Autogeek has a good description of it:

Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax No. 476 (autogeek.net)

Collinite can leave a haze on plastic, for those areas I prefer P21S:
Amazon.com: P21S 12700W Carnauba Wax : Automotive

This is a great wax because it "feeds" paint nicely, it's just not that durable. I don't think I'll be using it on the Cybertruck, maybe on the plastic trim like the fenders, more likely I'll apply a plastic protectant that feeds the plastic and has UV inhibitors (if I don't just use the Renaissance Wax). I don't go overboard with products like this but it does help to condition new plastics right from the start.

The Collinite would work a treat on the bare metal of the Cybertruck but I've been testing a synthetically derived wax that is promising to be better. A tiny bit goes a long way. Obviously, I haven't tried it on Cybertruck panels, but I am starting some test patches of it on my Model 3. I've also used it on plastic, wood, and bare metals to see how it reacts and I'm impressed so far.

Renaissance Wax | Microcrystalline Polish (highlandwoodworking.com)

It's not a new product, it has a long and mostly good reputation in the art and antiques world, for preserving bare metals, outdoor sculptures, wood, stone, etc. from oxidation. Apparently, the wax is finer grained than natural waxes (on an atomic level) and is a better oxygen barrier (without being absolute, obviously). It is firm/hard in the can but nicely "greasy" so it transfers easily to your applicator without excess. Multiple sources claim that it is more durable than carnauba, but my testing is far too recent to confirm.

It's blended with a solvent that is more volatile than solvents used in Collinite and other premium carnauba waxes so it dries very fast and application is simply wipe it on super thin, it spreads so easily I couldn't believe it, and immediately buff it off with a clean microfiber before it dries. I tried it at 42 degrees and high humidity, and it dried in under a minute, so work small areas quickly and just keep moving. Most waxes I've used harden more slowly under cold, high humidity conditions, so I'll be interested to see how it behaves under warmer/drier conditions. Apparently, multiple coats can be applied with only 30 minutes between coats. I plan on doing this initially to "condition" the metal. After that, just wash it with a non-aggressive soap and, every few washes renew the wax with a quick wipe and buff. Even if you neglect to add more wax as time passes, the wax initially applied should keep the metal more conditioned for over a year, better than the bare metal would otherwise be.

Like all waxes, I would recommend nitrile gloves when applying (although I often just irresponsibly speed through it without bothering). I might be more likely to wear protective gloves when doing large items like the Cybertruck because it does seem like the solvent (white spirits) might a bit more volatile and likely to draw through the skin more easily. The manufacturer claims the smaller micro-crystaline nature locks the solvents in (until applied) and thus the shelf life is indefinite without hardening and drying out. The solvents are plastic safe.

Some retailers of this wax have claimed it cleans too. I wouldn't use it that way. Start with a clean surface, especially when first used.

I plan to try both Collinite and Renaissance wax on my Cybertruck but early results make me think I will prefer the Renaissance wax. The 200 ml size seems appropriate for my uses as you barely need to use any at all although the small opening size of the metal can may be problematic for doing large surfaces as quickly as desired. I will find a way to deal with that, just not sure what it will be yet.

Thanks much for all the info and please keep us updated with new "discoveries".

 

[Boyne]

i am a little confused, i never washed my existing car rear camera for like 10 years, it still is kind of clear when i backup. Is it because CT rear camera location different from other cars?

Obviously you don't live in Michigan.

Sponsored