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HaulingAss

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would that void your warranty by introducing that to the electrical system?
Under federal law, no modifications void the entire warranty. The law does allow manufacturers to refuse warranty coverage when they can show the mods likely caused whatever potential warranty issue is at hand. Even then, the rest of the warranty remains in effect.
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EasternSP

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Under federal law, no modifications void the entire warranty. The law does allow manufacturers to refuse warranty coverage when they can show the mods likely caused whatever potential warranty issue is at hand. Even then, the rest of the warranty remains in effect.
Yeah, I know about that law. Sounds good in theory, but in practice, lawyer up. Is it worth the cost of the fight?
 

HaulingAss

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Yeah, I know about that law. Sounds good in theory, but in practice, lawyer up. Is it worth the cost of the fight?
It's pretty rare for consumers to have to lawyer up simply to get warranty coverage. It does happen, but it's pretty rare because manufacturers know they will only win if they have a strong case that the mods contributed to whatever failure is being denied coverage.

You seem more pessimistic than most people I know.
 

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It's pretty rare for consumers to have to lawyer up simply to get warranty coverage. It does happen, but it's pretty rare because manufacturers know they will only win if they have a strong case that the mods contributed to whatever failure is being denied coverage.

You seem more pessimistic than most people I know.
I certainly am skeptical of it. I had an issue with Harley Davidson concerning a warranty repair. I had a car tire on the bike and a part in the power train, compensator pack had failed. This is a part known to fail on any model. The service manager told me the warranty claim would be denied because of the car tire. I produced to much of a strain on the drive train of the bike. I argued that they used the same drive train part on their trikes that were delivered with car tires. I consulted an attorney and he said it would be an extreme long shot to win despite the Federal Act.
 

HaulingAss

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I certainly am skeptical of it. I had an issue with Harley Davidson concerning a warranty repair. I had a car tire on the bike and a part in the power train, compensator pack had failed. This is a part known to fail on any model. The service manager told me the warranty claim would be denied because of the car tire. I produced to much of a strain on the drive train of the bike. I argued that they used the same drive train part on their trikes that were delivered with car tires. I consulted an attorney and he said it would be an extreme long shot to win despite the Federal Act.
Putting a heavier car tire on would certainly stress the compensator, considering that it's designed to absorb the engines power pulses between the sprocket and the wheel. You had zero chance of winning that one unless the "decider" didn't understand basic physics (which is, unfortunately, surprisingly common).

As a life-long motorcyclist I have never been able to fathom the small minority of people who put a tire with a flat tread, designed for four-wheeled vehicles, on a motorcycle. It shows a distinct lack of respect for the physics of motorcycling and riding dynamics. Not to mention safety. You should be happy all that happened was a destroyed compensator.

Note: The fact that some compensators will fail on an unmodified bike, does not mean you retain warranty coverage when you increase the failure rate by putting on a grossly heavier wheel/tire without re-engineering the compensator for the extra mass. Because providing warranty coverage for owners who do that would unfairly increase the warranty expense of the manufacturer.
 


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Putting a heavier car tire on would certainly stress the compensator, considering that it's designed to absorb the engines power pulses between the sprocket and the wheel. You had zero chance of winning that one unless the "decider" didn't understand basic physics (which is, unfortunately, surprisingly common).

As a life-long motorcyclist I have never been able to fathom the small minority of people who put a tire with a flat tread, designed for four-wheeled vehicles, on a motorcycle. It shows a distinct lack of respect for the physics of motorcycling and riding dynamics. Not to mention safety. You should be happy all that happened was a destroyed compensator.

Note: The fact that some compensators will fail on an unmodified bike, does not mean you retain warranty coverage when you increase the failure rate by putting on a grossly heavier wheel/tire without re-engineering the compensator for the extra mass. Because providing warranty coverage for owners who do that would unfairly increase the warranty expense of the manufacturer.
Actually, car tires weigh less than motorcycle tires. I've been using CTs since 1978 and have been through all the arguments about the topic. As for the supposed stress on the drive train, I wrote a letter to the engineer division of Harley Davidson asking them that same question. The Division secretary called me a few weeks later to tell me they had passed my letter around the engineers and none of them had any idea how that notion came about. Also, Harley Davidson never put out any message of any sort saying such a thing. I asked her why then would service managers tell me that. She told me she didn't know but they wished the SMs wouldn't do that stuff. Right now in Virginia, my delegate representative is introducing an issue for consideration concerning a State Trooper in the safety Division who issued an addendum to the state vehicle inspectors telling them to reject any motorcycle that was presented for annual inspection with a car tire. I spoke to the Trooper myself after tracking him down as the author. His original evidence was data from two national traffic safety studies. I got ahold of both of them and read them cover to cover and nowhere did it even mention car tires let alone being the cause of incidents. He then changed his reasoning to, "It seems dangerous". He didn't have time after that to explain anything further on the topic. That's when I decided to talk to my delegate and she agreed, first that he just introduced that requirement without legislative authority and second, his lack of any data proving the use of CTs were dangerous. As long as I've known of it, I haven't heard of any incident caused by a CT on a motorcycle. Yeah, there's the stories that people heard of, but no detail, i.e. name, place, date, bike, etc. In actuality though, CTs provide much better traction than MTs, for cornering, stopping and weight bearing. Additional benefits are longer wear by at least 2X and about half the price. There are forums dedicated to use of CTs called darkside. 100s of thousands of riders without any incidents caused by the CT. Yeah, there may be incidents of motorcycles with CTs but not because of the CT. I think I could be considered an expert on the topic having the decades of experience and awareness of it.
 

HaulingAss

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In actuality though, CTs provide much better traction than MTs, for cornering, stopping and weight bearing.
Car tires provide much better traction than motorcycle tires for cornering, stopping and weight bearing? Ignoring the non-sensical claim of better traction for "weight bearing", the claim that they are lighter and provide "better" cornering and stopping traction, I'm surprised MotoGP riders haven't adopted them yet. They should be running Hoosiers I guess. :LOL:

Just remember, if it looks like BS, and it smells like BS, it's BS.
 

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Car tires provide much better traction than motorcycle tires for cornering, stopping and weight bearing? Ignoring the non-sensical claim of better traction for "weight bearing", the claim that they are lighter and provide "better" cornering and stopping traction, I'm surprised MotoGP riders haven't adopted them yet. They should be running Hoosiers I guess. :LOL:

Just remember, if it looks like BS, and it smells like BS, it's BS.
If ya haven't actually done it, ya don't have much to say about it except what ya "think" might happen. I've weighed the tires, I've done stop gaming, I've tracked the miles and expense. They're great for the bagger crowd because the lean angle is limited. As for completion riding, dirt racers use a completely different tire than a street course bike. Which one is wrong? CTs on a bagger or chopper works.
 

HaulingAss

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If ya haven't actually done it, ya don't have much to say about it except what ya "think" might happen. I've weighed the tires, I've done stop gaming, I've tracked the miles and expense. They're great for the bagger crowd because the lean angle is limited. As for completion riding, dirt racers use a completely different tire than a street course bike. Which one is wrong? CTs on a bagger or chopper works.
OK, you're probably right, the only reason Valentino Rossi never discovered how much better the cornering traction (and all the weight savings) would be was because he was too closed-minded to try a car tire. He's probably still trying to figure out how he could have used all that extra corner traction at limited lean angles! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Here's the problem. I didn't take issue with your claim that "it works" or that it saves money, I took issue with your claim that you would get better traction in the corners with a car tire than a tire designed for your motorcycle. And if you find a wheel/tire assembly from a car that weighs less than one designed for a motorcycle, then there's a reason for that. And it's not pretty.
 

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Back on topic guys.

I'm planning on a 2M/70cm radio install as well. As another post mentioned, running the inverter for long periods can drain mileage. In the OP's use case, it's likely a great way to do it (as long as you remember to turn off the outlets afterwards). My use case is supporting charity bicycle rides, an doing EmCom for our county. So I'm planning on tapping into the 48V system in the Frunk.

I like the idea of using the roof rack mounts. I bought a Diamond K9000TM, to raise and lower a 54" tall antenna.

But I'm using the truck so much right now, that I'm a bit nervous about tearing the frunk apart to wire in the 48V to 12V converter.
 


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Back on topic guys.

I'm planning on a 2M/70cm radio install as well. As another post mentioned, running the inverter for long periods can drain mileage. In the OP's use case, it's likely a great way to do it (as long as you remember to turn off the outlets afterwards). My use case is supporting charity bicycle rides, an doing EmCom for our county. So I'm planning on tapping into the 48V system in the Frunk.

I like the idea of using the roof rack mounts. I bought a Diamond K9000TM, to raise and lower a 54" tall antenna.

But I'm using the truck so much right now, that I'm a bit nervous about tearing the frunk apart to wire in the 48V to 12V converter.
I don't even have to think about turning outlets on and off. There is a setting in the outlets page for turning on the outlets when you get in the car. They turn off when you leave. They don't work if you are plugged in of course since the inverter is in use for charging.
 

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I don't even have to think about turning outlets on and off. There is a setting in the outlets page for turning on the outlets when you get in the car. They turn off when you leave. They don't work if you are plugged in of course since the inverter is in use for charging.
And also, I suspect that the 48V system would also be powered/charged from some sort of inverter. There might not be much difference between 120V and 48V systems when vampire loss is considered.
 

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And also, I suspect that the 48V system would also be powered/charged from some sort of inverter. There might not be much difference between 120V and 48V systems when vampire loss is considered.
I would wager the 48V conversion is considerably more efficient than the 120V conversion, simply because it's a DC to DC conversion (instead of to AC).
 

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I would wager the 48V conversion is considerably more efficient than the 120V conversion, simply because it's a DC to DC conversion (instead of to AC).
That probably depends on what you feel is "considerable".

My best guess is that 13.8 V from the 48 V system, with the Tesla switching running, along with the necessary buck converter, best case efficiency is perhaps 90%. Via the 120 V system, maybe 80%.

That seems significant, but if you're drawing next to nothing, perhaps not a big deal in the scheme of things. If the HVAC system is on, or the main screen is active, it would be tough to see much of a difference I expect.

If OP is nervous about digging into the 48 V system, I don't think he's going to run out of power during his exercise because he used the 120 instead of 48 V system.

If it was me, I'd test each for RF noise and choose the quietest option.
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