Hardwired fridge in frunk

[someccie]

I picked up my Cybertruck last Wednesday and I'm already missing the cooler I used in my Model 3. The 120V connections in the Cybertruck don't work while the vehicle is on AC charge, which means my cooler gets warm overnight. This is not ideal. The 48V turns off at some point automatically, perhaps 12 hours after leaving the vehicle without being on charge. I need to track that down and work on a solution.

Anyway, I decided to take the plunge and utilize the 48V connector under the frunk liner to power my 12V/120V fridge. This won't work out of the box, so I used a 48V to 12V step-down converter. I tried to make it as neat as possible behind the liner. Also, I used an easily removable connector on the outside to disconnect the front connection when Tesla or I needed to access behind the liner. I still need to work on tidying up front, but it works for now, and I will keep my drinks ice-cold for my first road trip next week.

48V to 12V step down - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0953ZQQ5Q
12V Wire connection - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMDRJDN
Three-Port lever wire connectors - https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-In-Sure-3-Port-Lever-Wire-Connector-50-Bag-30-05L23/320628223
Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G132X2F

Some photos are below.

Edit: I didn't put a hole in the frunk liner so that it could be reversed. I need to check their prices, and I might hardwire the 12V connection inside the liner near the top on the passenger side to remove some extra wiring. I also need to find a mounting point for the 48V-12V step-down. Having it sitting around isn't ideal.

Edit 2 (8/16/2024): Telsa provided a price of $510 (before taxes) for the frunk liner, which I believe is fair. I will go ahead and make some changes to my design when I get some time and update the thread in a later post.

Part: (FRUNK ASSEMBLY 1821260-00-F) Price: $510 - Frunk Assembly Liner

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[Gurule92]

Nice! Didn't they say that they were going to make the sockets work while charging? I think baglino said that no?

 

[ituner-HF]

I picked up my Cybertruck last Wednesday and I'm already missing the cooler I used in my Model 3. The 120V connections in the Cybertruck don't work while the vehicle is on AC charge, which means my cooler gets warm overnight. This is not ideal. The 48V turns off at some point automatically, perhaps 12 hours after leaving the vehicle without being on charge. I need to track that down and work on a solution.

Anyway, I decided to take the plunge and utilize the 48V connector under the frunk liner to power my 12V/120V fridge. This won't work out of the box, so I used a 48V to 12V step-down converter. I tried to make it as neat as possible behind the liner. Also, I used an easily removable connector on the outside to disconnect the front connection when Tesla or I needed to access behind the liner. I still need to work on tidying up front, but it works for now, and I will keep my drinks ice-cold for my first road trip next week.

48V to 12V step down - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0953ZQQ5Q
12V Wire connection - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMDRJDN
Three-Port lever wire connectors - https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-In-Sure-3-Port-Lever-Wire-Connector-50-Bag-30-05L23/320628223
Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G132X2F

Some photos are below.

Edit: I didn't put a hole in the frunk liner so that it could be reversed. I need to check their prices, and I might hardwire the 12V connection inside the liner near the top on the passenger side to remove some extra wiring. I also need to find a mounting point for the 48V-12V step-down. Having it sitting around isn't ideal.

You need more airflow for the 48->12V DC-DC converter. I would use velcro to the CT frunk (away from cooler) or for a more permanent install I would ~M5 self-tapping screws, they like this kind of plastic.

For a quick disconnect I used this waterproof connector for my 48V lightbar accessory port (for a starlink project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FJPMML6

 

[CyberTruckeeTheOne]

There is already an electric 12V ref for Model Y.

It won't be long before they come up to fill that huge empty space below and between the driver and passenger.

 

[someccie]

Nice! Didn't they say that they were going to make the sockets work while charging? I think baglino said that no?

Yes, he did say that, but he is no longer at the company. I didn't want to wait for them to give us a minor feature, so I made it work.

You need more airflow for the 48->12V DC-DC converter. I would use velcro to the CT frunk (away from cooler) or for a more permanent install I would ~M5 self-tapping screws, they like this kind of plastic.

For a quick disconnect I used this waterproof connector for my 48V lightbar accessory port (for a starlink project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FJPMML6

Yeah, I'm going to mount it after I've priced out the liner. The waterproof connector is a great point, and I think I will go back and make that change on the connection point behind the liner, as water certainly gets inside that area. Thanks for the tips.

I'm interested in seeing your Starlink project. I'm trying to determine how I'm going to run that. Unfortunately, I still have the old v2 dish. It sits in the bed currently since Unplugged is out of stock for their mounts.

 

[someccie]

There is already an electric 12V ref for Model Y.

It won't be long before they come up to fill that huge empty space below and between the driver and passenger.

Sure, but I purchased this years ago for my Model 3. It gets well below freezing so I can store meat or ice cream in a pinch.

The space is a huge void, for sure!

 

[batlag]

I picked up my Cybertruck last Wednesday and I'm already missing the cooler I used in my Model 3. The 120V connections in the Cybertruck don't work while the vehicle is on AC charge, which means my cooler gets warm overnight. This is not ideal. The 48V turns off at some point automatically, perhaps 12 hours after leaving the vehicle without being on charge. I need to track that down and work on a solution.

Anyway, I decided to take the plunge and utilize the 48V connector under the frunk liner to power my 12V/120V fridge. This won't work out of the box, so I used a 48V to 12V step-down converter. I tried to make it as neat as possible behind the liner. Also, I used an easily removable connector on the outside to disconnect the front connection when Tesla or I needed to access behind the liner. I still need to work on tidying up front, but it works for now, and I will keep my drinks ice-cold for my first road trip next week.

48V to 12V step down - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0953ZQQ5Q
12V Wire connection - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMDRJDN
Three-Port lever wire connectors - https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-In-Sure-3-Port-Lever-Wire-Connector-50-Bag-30-05L23/320628223
Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G132X2F

Some photos are below.

Edit: I didn't put a hole in the frunk liner so that it could be reversed. I need to check their prices, and I might hardwire the 12V connection inside the liner near the top on the passenger side to remove some extra wiring. I also need to find a mounting point for the 48V-12V step-down. Having it sitting around isn't ideal.

I feel like this is next level ?. Probably biting off more than I’d like to chew. Hopefully you’ve got a video of the process posted on YouTube or something!

 

[someccie]

Sorry, I didn't make a video. I just took a bunch of pictures to document the process. I have others not listed here, but they are just photos of the wires strung out across my bumper with the fridge sitting in the garage to ensure it worked before putting everything back together.

 

[GatorCyber]

how hot do these get since they don't appear to have much ventilation, especially in the subtrunk?

 

[someccie]

I had a previous model that overheated in the Georgia summers due to insufficient ventilation in my Model 3 trunk (not subtrunk). This version seems to be working pretty well, though.

I also have the optional insulated cover, but I typically remove it in the summer months to allow the condenser fan to cool sufficiently.

 

[RUREDEIAM]

I also wanted my cooler in the frunk and it draws only 48W. I also wanted more versatility for other powered options in the future, so I went with this setup. 48 Volt to 120 Volt and used the Ford outlet that is rated for the max 400W on the auxiliary outlet in the frunk.

Victron Energy 500VA 48-Volt 120V AC Pure Sine Wave Inverter
https://a.co/d/9WQC1ME

Center Console Rear Power Outlet Plug 110V 400W Rear AC Outlet Socket Assembly
https://a.co/d/dzhfFSl

 

[RUREDEIAM]

I updated the install with a better outlet for the frunk. Cybertruck 48Volt wired to inverter inputs. The power outlet simply plugs into the 120Volt outlet on the inverter and drill a 1-3/4” hole in the frunk liner and insert the power outlet. Install complete.

15A Weatherproof Outdoor Power Outlet by Journeyman-Pro 15 Amp 125 Volt NEMA 5-15R Receptacle Kit with Integrated 20" Extension Cord + Waterproof Rubber Cover (GCR1-BLACK)
https://a.co/d/aDvOEL0

 

[ituner-HF]

Yes, he did say that, but he is no longer at the company. I didn't want to wait for them to give us a minor feature, so I made it work.



Yeah, I'm going to mount it after I've priced out the liner. The waterproof connector is a great point, and I think I will go back and make that change on the connection point behind the liner, as water certainly gets inside that area. Thanks for the tips.

I'm interested in seeing your Starlink project. I'm trying to determine how I'm going to run that. Unfortunately, I still have the old v2 dish. It sits in the bed currently since Unplugged is out of stock for their mounts.

I posted the Starlink Setup here and added some comments for the GEN2: https://www.cybertruckownersclub.co...truck-starlink-setup-for-gen2-and-gen3.17128/

 

[WenssCT88]

Absolutely love this. Was contemplating doing the same and was hoping someone had done it before me!

I’m thinking about mounting the DC/DC step down behind the frunk liner and drilling a hole to put a 12V outlet receptacle in the liner. This way it’s a clean install, basically same as if they had decided to put a 12V outlet up there.

One big question though, per the manual it seems that once you exit the truck you must keep the AC outlets active to keep the 48V on. Is this true?

I was hoping the LV side would stay on as long as sentry mode was enabled, like our model Y. That way you have less phantom drain than if the huge DC/AC outlet inverter is kept powered on all night. The idle current draw from the main inverter is higher than the power draw of the cooler!

If there’s no way to keep 48V power on without the outlets on than it would sort of defeat the purpose for me and I’d probably just use a 2kW power station in the vault to run my cooler back there and then fast charge it once a day off the truck to be more power efficient.

 

[tmeyer3]

The 48v battery isn't far from the frunk, did you think about maybe directly wiring it so it won't turn off? Downside being you could drain your 48v to nothing unintentionally

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