Starlink: The Ultimate Mount Solution!

[ABILISK]

@T Sportline to the rescue with, hands down, the best solution to date for mating a Starlink Mini and CT.

Their new Voltage Conversion System makes it super easy to hardwire directly to the frunk feed. It takes the 48V feed from the frunk and outputs 100W via USB-C (safe for Starlink). It also has a 36W USB-A output if you have a use for that.

They designed it to where you can drill a hole in the frunk tub and have the plug easily accessible if you have a need for that (USB speakers for tailgating, having a phone charger accessible as you chill out in the open frunk, etc). I didn’t go that route, as I wanted this for Starlink specifically, but there’s plenty of uses for it.

Here’s the unit plugged into the frunk feed. I ran the cable up the left side,

out the gap,

along the windshield,

to the dish on the roof.

Super easy install, took easily less than an hour. T Sportline has a great installation video on the product page. Just make sure you select “High-Output USB-C (100 W)” and not “12 Volt System (350 W)”

Is this necessary? Well after much research and much discussion on here with smart people, I determined I don’t know. The frunk puts out 48V but there’s a potential that it might put out 58V during spikes. Starlink can only handle 48V. It has safety measures in place that shouldn’t allow it to go over its max voltage but you never know with electricity. It’s a powerful force and one thing life has taught me up to this point is that it’s better safe than sorry. This system is a safe way to power Starlink while also offering a few other advantages.

Even if you take the risk of possibly frying your Starlink by hooking it up directly to the 48V power feed, you’d have to cut the end off your power cable, separate the positive and negative wires, and connect them to the frunk feed. It might work, but then what happens if a hater cuts your power cable while your truck’s parked? You’re in for a lot of work.

This system allows you to use a factory Starlink power cable ($31) while keeping Starlink mounted over the roof instead of over the bed. I had been running my Starlink on my crossbars mounted over the bed with the power cable running to the bed outlets. That worked just fine, but there were crossbars mounted over my bed - obviously not ideal for loading large items. I wanted the crossbars over the roof.

Some people run Starlink inside the cabin, mounted to either the giant dashboard or the roof with a suction cup mount. The problem with that is there’s extra cables in the cabin now and one of your outlets is permanently taken. Also, with the bed or cabin outlets, they disable if you ever plug the truck in to charge, which will kill your internet connection.

I’ve tried everything under the sun, and I can tell you the ultimate solution to all problems is mounting Starlink externally over the roof. No loss of power during supercharging (yes, I confirmed that today). I drove ~80 miles and had no outages other than the 1-2 second ones you always get while driving under overpasses and whatnot.

Great work by T Sportline. Always one step ahead!

Sponsored

 

[mongo]

@T Sportline to the rescue with, hands down, the best solution to date for mating a Starlink Mini and CT.

Their new Voltage Conversion System makes it super easy to hardwire directly to the frunk feed. It takes the 48V feed from the frunk and outputs 100W via USB-C (safe for Starlink). It also has a 36W USB-A output if you have a use for that.

They designed it to where you can drill a hole in the frunk tub and have the plug easily accessible if you have a need for that (USB speakers for tailgating, having a phone charger accessible as you chill out in the open frunk, etc). I didn’t go that route, as I wanted this for Starlink specifically, but there’s plenty of uses for it.

Here’s the unit plugged into the frunk feed. I ran the cable up the left side,

out the gap,

along the windshield,
View attachment 108763
to the dish on the roof.

Super easy install, took easily less than an hour. T Sportline has a great installation video on the product page. Just make sure you select “High-Output USB-C (100 W)” and not “12 Volt System (350 W)”

Is this necessary? Well after much research and much discussion on here with smart people, I determined I don’t know. The frunk puts out 48V but there’s a potential that it might put out 58V during spikes. Starlink can only handle 48V. It has safety measures in place that shouldn’t allow it to go over its max voltage but you never know with electricity. It’s a powerful force and one thing life has taught me up to this point is that it’s better safe than sorry. This system is a safe way to power Starlink while also offering a few other advantages.

Even if you take the risk of possibly frying your Starlink by hooking it up directly to the 48V power feed, you’d have to cut the end off your power cable, separate the positive and negative wires, and connect them to the frunk feed. It might work, but then what happens if a hater cuts your power cable while your truck’s parked? You’re in for a lot of work.

This system allows you to use a factory Starlink power cable ($31) while keeping Starlink mounted over the roof instead of over the bed. I had been running my Starlink on my crossbars mounted over the bed with the power cable running to the bed outlets. That worked just fine, but there were crossbars mounted over my bed - obviously not ideal for loading large items. I wanted the crossbars over the roof.

Some people run Starlink inside the cabin, mounted to either the giant dashboard or the roof with a suction cup mount. The problem with that is there’s extra cables in the cabin now and one of your outlets is permanently taken. Also, with the bed or cabin outlets, they disable if you ever plug the truck in to charge, which will kill your internet connection.

I’ve tried everything under the sun, and I can tell you the ultimate solution to all problems is mounting Starlink externally over the roof. No loss of power during supercharging (yes, I confirmed that today. I drove ~80 miles and had no outages other than the 1-2 second ones you always get while driving under overpasses and whatnot.

Great work by T Sportline. Always one step ahead!

There is a roof feed for direct connection also. Replacement jumper harness is only $10 from Tesla and you can make it more waterproof than the stock USB-C cable.

Water Resistance:
• The barrel jack end of the cable forms a lP67 rated connection with the Starlink Mini kit, providing
protection against water ingress. The USB-C end of the cable should not be exposed to outdoor environments.

Specs say 48, but the power converter IC is rated for more than that.

FWIW, Mini is listed as good for 60+ MPH wind.

 

[hemiarch]

Can you tell me a little more about the replacement Juniper harness and what you’d use it for?

 

[ABILISK]

Can you tell me a little more about the replacement Juniper harness and what you’d use it for?

This just provides USB-A and USB-C outlets. Whatever you might use those for, they’re ready. I got it solely for Starlink.

The one mongo mentioned is for the roof feed. No go your light bar.

 

[hemiarch]

From the 400w 48v frunk feed? Anyone got a link so I can see it?

 

[CKLenYLA]

Why all the extra work? 48v roof feed direct to the starlink.

 

[hemiarch]

Why all the extra work? 48v roof feed direct to the starlink.

So does running the Starlink directly off the 48v not fry it? Been hoping for this experience. Thank you. Spec wise it’s right on the edge.

 

[mongo]

From the 400w 48v frunk feed? Anyone got a link so I can see it?

I was referring to the B pillar to roof accessory jumper since the post expressed concern about 2rd party damage.

 

[mongo]

So does running the Starlink directly off the 48v not fry it? Been hoping for this experience. Thank you. Spec wise it’s right on the edge.

Lots of kids are doing it these days. Based on info from tear downs, it may be good to 60V.

 

[CKLenYLA]

So does running the Starlink directly off the 48v not fry it? Been hoping for this experience. Thank you. Spec wise it’s right on the edge.

been running it like this for months. No issues

 

[hemiarch]

Well that settles it for me. I’m going to wire it directly to the frunk feed as a Y with the xt-60 that feeds my frunk power bank.
Maybe a 3 way y ( or E) with one of those juniper harnesses if you guys can tell me how to find one just to have options.
The more I think about it though, the kit above doesn’t look too bad. The bracket seems nice. 12v output can feed just about any power bank. There are lots of consumer electronics that run on that etc.
I forget, does @tsportline have a discount code for forum members usually?

 

[hemiarch]

@T Sportline to the rescue with, hands down, the best solution to date for mating a Starlink Mini and CT.

Their new Voltage Conversion System makes it super easy to hardwire directly to the frunk feed. It takes the 48V feed from the frunk and outputs 100W via USB-C (safe for Starlink). It also has a 36W USB-A output if you have a use for that.

They designed it to where you can drill a hole in the frunk tub and have the plug easily accessible if you have a need for that (USB speakers for tailgating, having a phone charger accessible as you chill out in the open frunk, etc). I didn’t go that route, as I wanted this for Starlink specifically, but there’s plenty of uses for it.

Here’s the unit plugged into the frunk feed. I ran the cable up the left side,

out the gap,

along the windshield,

to the dish on the roof.

Super easy install, took easily less than an hour. T Sportline has a great installation video on the product page. Just make sure you select “High-Output USB-C (100 W)” and not “12 Volt System (350 W)”

Is this necessary? Well after much research and much discussion on here with smart people, I determined I don’t know. The frunk puts out 48V but there’s a potential that it might put out 58V during spikes. Starlink can only handle 48V. It has safety measures in place that shouldn’t allow it to go over its max voltage but you never know with electricity. It’s a powerful force and one thing life has taught me up to this point is that it’s better safe than sorry. This system is a safe way to power Starlink while also offering a few other advantages.

Even if you take the risk of possibly frying your Starlink by hooking it up directly to the 48V power feed, you’d have to cut the end off your power cable, separate the positive and negative wires, and connect them to the frunk feed. It might work, but then what happens if a hater cuts your power cable while your truck’s parked? You’re in for a lot of work.

This system allows you to use a factory Starlink power cable ($31) while keeping Starlink mounted over the roof instead of over the bed. I had been running my Starlink on my crossbars mounted over the bed with the power cable running to the bed outlets. That worked just fine, but there were crossbars mounted over my bed - obviously not ideal for loading large items. I wanted the crossbars over the roof.

Some people run Starlink inside the cabin, mounted to either the giant dashboard or the roof with a suction cup mount. The problem with that is there’s extra cables in the cabin now and one of your outlets is permanently taken. Also, with the bed or cabin outlets, they disable if you ever plug the truck in to charge, which will kill your internet connection.

I’ve tried everything under the sun, and I can tell you the ultimate solution to all problems is mounting Starlink externally over the roof. No loss of power during supercharging (yes, I confirmed that today. I drove ~80 miles and had no outages other than the 1-2 second ones you always get while driving under overpasses and whatnot.

Great work by T Sportline. Always one step ahead!

What’s going on in this pic? Is that solar panel? If it is it’s quite nicely sized

 

[ABILISK]

What’s going on in this pic? Is that solar panel? If it is it’s quite nicely sized

Nah just the garage door reflecting off the windshield lol

 

[ABILISK]

I will readily admit, as I did in the original post, that it’s possible this is all unnecessary and that Starlink would work just fine hardwired to the roof or frunk feed directly. I just wasn’t willing to take the risk and this provides both peace of mind and ease of replacement if some nut job snips your cable while you’re away from the truck.

The comments so far seem to confirm what I had experienced up to this point: we don’t know for sure if it’s fully safe to direct hardwire.

 

[hemiarch]

What’s going on in this pic? Is that solar panel? If it is it’s quite nicely sized

Roger. Just wild imagination. Lol

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