Starlink: The Ultimate Mount Solution!

[ABILISK]

I want to know if I can read @CyberWraps “explicit” thread on there.

That one’s triple X rated. Could take extra time…

Even though it’s just because of half naked dudes. I expect better @CybertruckWraps

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[hemiarch]

That one’s triple X rated. Could take extra time…

Even though it’s just because of half naked dudes. I expect better @CybertruckWraps

Shit…did I tag the wrong user again.?I really suck at this. People have very similar handles.

 

[ABILISK]

Shit…did I tag the wrong user again.?I really suck at this. People have very similar handles.

There’s a lot of wrap companies lol there’s wraps, truck wraps, covers, probably more

 

[hemiarch]

There’s a lot of wrap companies lol there’s wraps, truck wraps, covers, probably more

That guy is the magnetic covers dude right?

 

[Tallgeese179]

No first hand experience, but this guy tested the standby mode. My takeaway was that I can do text/calls/FaceTime without issue and can stream YT videos at 360p without buffering.



Also as I was firing up SolidWorks to do a quick model of tailgate sheet metal bracket mount, I found this from Spigen. Still might model that tailgate bracket to see how much it would be from SendCutSend in 316 stainless (could do 304 as well). Tumble finish would probably look somewhat close to CT exterior as well. Thinnest that have in 316 that can be tumbled is .125" though, so it would be beefy and absolutely overkill.

https://www.spigen.com/products/starlink-mini-car-mount-stl100

Seems much more discreet than the aluminum bracket and suction cup designs and can install/remove the mini without tools and without undoing the suction cups. Probably going to go with the Spigen mount myself once I decide to get the Mini. Totally worth the peace of mind for $5 a month

 

[hemiarch]

No first hand experience, but this guy tested the standby mode. My takeaway was that I can do text/calls/FaceTime without issue and can stream YT videos at 360p without buffering.



Also as I was firing up SolidWorks to do a quick model of tailgate sheet metal bracket mount, I found this from Spigen. Still might model that tailgate bracket to see how much it would be from SendCutSend in 316 stainless (could do 304 as well). Tumble finish would probably look somewhat close to CT exterior as well. Thinnest that have in 316 that can be tumbled is .125" though, so it would be beefy and absolutely overkill.

https://www.spigen.com/products/starlink-mini-car-mount-stl100

Seems much more discreet than the aluminum bracket and suction cup designs and can install/remove the mini without tools and without undoing the suction cups. Probably going to go with the Spigen mount myself once I decide to get the Mini. Totally worth the peace of mind for $5 a month

That’s very nice. Spigen makes nice stuff. I have a few items. Maybe a hair pricey but wil go on sale probably.
I went with the veritas vans mount for several reasons but mostly because it can be used to either hang or top mount with either magnets or suction cups so max versatility.
I also find my mini works just as well flat as angled so for either visual impact reasons or aerodynamics I prefer it that way.
the white top it comes with certainly makes sense thermally but is very visible as a reflection in the highly raked CT windshield.
A piece of flat black ppf makes it completely invisible.

 

[Tallgeese179]

That’s very nice. Spigen makes nice stuff. I have a few items. Maybe a hair pricey but wil go on sale probably.
I went with the veritas vans mount for several reasons but mostly because it can be used to either hang or top mount with either magnets or suction cups so max versatility.
I also find my mini works just as well flat as angled so for either visual impact reasons or aerodynamics I prefer it that way.
the white top it comes with certainly makes sense thermally but is very visible as a reflection in the highly raked CT windshield.
A piece of flat black ppf makes it completely invisible.

Just noticed, they actually have a 25% off coupon that auto applies to all Starlink stuff currently. So it's around $76 shipped. Not cheap by any means, but I also I'm not convinced I could design something with similar functionality, durability, and aesthetics for the same price.

I like the dashboard mount for simplicity though, especially with the black vinyl wrap to make it discreet. Wrapping the rear when doing a roof glass mount light be a nice way to blend it with the headliner. Even better, a snap on cover wrapped in matching microsuede...and now I'm getting carried away

 

[hemiarch]

Just noticed, they actually have a 25% off coupon that auto applies to all Starlink stuff currently. So it's around $76 shipped. Not cheap by any means, but I also I'm not convinced I could design something with similar functionality, durability, and aesthetics for the same price.

I like the dashboard mount for simplicity though, especially with the black vinyl wrap to make it discreet. Wrapping the rear when doing a roof glass mount light be a nice way to blend it with the headliner. Even better, a snap on cover wrapped in matching microsuede...and now I'm getting carried away

I mean, it’s not big pimpin’ microsuede but…
Something like this would add discretion.
https://a.co/d/4vr3A6L

 

[Tallgeese179]

Hol up, wait a minute...they gave it for much cheaper with free shipping on eBay

https://ebay.us/m/gCEkhj

Those silicone covers look real nice! Could probably print them in TPU actually if they're under 256x256mm. Though I meant to cover the back of the mini when it's mounted to the roof glass. Could even be a printed piece in something like ASA, since it would be wrapped and the layer lines would be hidden.

 

[Cybertrock]

I just got an email from Starlink. They are sending the mini to me at no cost.


Now I have to go back and read 10 pages of posts in this thread

 

[hemiarch]

Hol up, wait a minute...they gave it for much cheaper with free shipping on eBay

https://ebay.us/m/gCEkhj

Those silicone covers look real nice! Could probably print them in TPU actually if they're under 256x256mm. Though I meant to cover the back of the mini when it's mounted to the roof glass. Could even be a printed piece in something like ASA, since it would be wrapped and the layer lines would be hidden.

I just really love cleaning stuff made of silicon. Takes 3 seconds under a faucet so anytime anything is available in silicone I go for it.

 

[Tallgeese179]

I just really love cleaning stuff made of silicon. Takes 3 seconds under a faucet so anytime anything is available in silicone I go for it.

Totally agree, it's a beautiful material. Super easy to clean, only downside is that it seems unnaturally good at having lint/dust stick to it if it's smooth. A nice matte/micro rough surface finish helps prevent this though. Can't cost that much to apply that surface finish to their molds since tooling in China is DIRT cheap

 

[hemiarch]

Thanks for the link to the discussion. It looks like he converts to 12V for the Mini. I want to keep it simple, and I've seen no indication the 48V feed cannot safely power the Mini. It just seems sub-optimal to have the overhead of two power conversions operating on the same device.

Even if I wanted a 12V cooler in the frunk I would likely size the voltage converter for the cooler and run the Mini directly from 48V. But I've been pretty happy with my Cooler Shock ice packs in a soft-cooler for up to three days and I have a solution for longer trips utilizing our super-efficient Oyster hard cooler that will hold 5 large Cooler Shock ice packs (and one or two in the actual working cooler, rotated as needed). The secret for long-lasting super cold is to ensure they are frozen in a freezer of at least 0 degrees F (colder is better). This is not the case with regular ice which just isn't that cold to begin with).

I still need to do the tests, but by packing the Oyster full with five large flat packs and rotating them into the working cooler as needed, I think I can do a week long trip without worrying about power or recharging the cold packs (which are actually a lot colder than ice). I will build a cooler liner from foil bubble insulation for the Oyster Cooler so the cold packs are not in direct contact with the cooler walls and only open it every two days when I need to rotate a fresh cold pack into the working cooler. I might even build an exterior case for the Oyster from the same silver insulation and silver tape. It might go longer than a week!

In terms of total useable refrigerated volume/total volume and weight (vs. electric cooler like the Dometic) I think this will be comparable because most of the Dometic fridges are taken up by insulation and mechanicals. The advantage of the cold-pack based solution is it can't break and it doesn't require electricity (which is a benefit on a multi-day camping trip). And the working cooler is much smaller/lighter to deal with. On a shorter day or weekend trip the advantage is weight/volume/convenience (because there will only be one cooler, and it will be smaller/lighter than the Dometic).

The Oyster cooler is pretty amazing, having used it for a year now. The walls are very thin so it packs a lot for it's exterior volume and weight.

Sorry for the lengthy cooler tangent but I've been considering a Dometic for some time, and I wanted to share my thoughts.

I’m fascinated by cooler discussion. Believe it or not this has become a bit of a hobby for me. My family constantly kids about this but nobody complains when they have cold drinks and ice cream. I’ve also driven Dungeness crab back to Arizona for Washington without issue.
My setup is not dometic but they do make nice stuff. So does ICECO.
It’s made of 100% solid uncut chinesium but I like it for form factor. I have the center console fridge in the cabin that works as my drink/sandwich fridge and the subtrunk unit that acts as my freezer. For shopping or transporting this is great because you really don’t have to get in and out of it very often.

As for my plan with the frunk feed, I absolutely agree you should stay 48v as much and as long/far as possible.
My plan is to use these waterproof Deutsch connectors to run 48v from the frunk feed to my Ecoflow river 2 pro which accepts 220w at up to 50v through its solar input and use that for anything I need in the frunk like usb, ac power or 12v. I’ll then use the same waterproof connector to run a line into the cabin. This will split into 48v feeding the Starlink and another line to the fridge where I’ll put a small buck converter to get 12v for the fridge. I’m getting the 4 way harness so I can cap two of them in case I want to add something else later. If anyone can teach how to discretely get a wire to the smugglers bay I’d love to wire the freezer that way too.
https://a.co/d/0lQPPKP

 

[Tallgeese179]

Starlink Mini on sale at multiple stores. Combined with that eBay Spigen mount, I'll have it all setup in the twuck for ~$300 . If you purchased from a place that does price matching/adjustment, just use Home Depot or BestBuy's internet price in a customer service chat. Multiple people on SlickDeals confirming they had success.

https://slickdeals.net/f/18789064-s...ual-band-wi-fi-system-white-229-free-shipping

 

[Friday]

I got my Contronx suction cup Starlink mini mount and put it over the backseat between the glass and shade screen. I'm using the AC outlet in back of console for power. Today, along with FSD 14.1.7, was first test drive. Worked flawless, 150Mbps down while in motion (per passenger monitoring). Excited to have sat comms in the CB, the future is now.

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