V2G

[Crissa]

You use some of the range in the battery, and only run the generator to recharge it when you need to.

Mostly, there will always be a place to charge within range. There is never the case that there's no power for hundred of miles, so you just drive to somewhere and charge up. Then drive back home.

You can also, like the poster above, choose to pull the breaker and charge the truck with your generator or solar.

Houses always use more power when you're there than when you're not.

-Crissa

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[larryboy31]

This says nothing of the wear and tear on your car batteries. You are better off with a set of power walls (or equivalent) as they are designed to power houses and to switch the grid in and out.
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I don't know how much a "set of powerwalls" costs but I seem to remember that one powerwall costs in the neighbor hood of $5K. If I would have had a CT all during the 40 or so years I have lived in my current house I would have used it to power the house for a single 3 day outage and 4 or 5 partial day outages. I don't think that my CT battery would have lost a single percentage point of capacity for that amount of V2H. I have a generator and can now keep the CT in the sweet spot for battery longevity. I am going to add the 5grand saved in not buying a powerwall to all the other savings that I will get by having a pickup that costs 1/4 the amount to fuel, wont rust and does not need oil changes.

 

[Jhodgesatmb]

You use some of the range in the battery, and only run the generator to recharge it when you need to.

Mostly, there will always be a place to charge within range. There is never the case that there's no power for hundred of miles, so you just drive to somewhere and charge up. Then drive back home.

You can also, like the poster above, choose to pull the breaker and charge the truck with your generator or solar.

Houses always use more power when you're there than when you're not.

-Crissa

One cannot just go to a nearby supercharger, or any other, if the entire grid is down. If we are trying to plan around big events then you need to save EV power to get out of the down area.

 

[Ogre]

Starting to plan new construction of a house and want to design it all electric. Slab on grade radiant heat, grid tied with rack solar pv and water heater mounted on south facing slope. planning on some battery storage, grid power goes down in the area from time to time. Pricing out battery, looks like the truck I plan on having in the garage would be cheaper than the equivalent in batteries and that could be used to power the house in a blackout with V2G. My conclusion is V2G capability is a must have. I am not an electrician and don’t have experience yet with the type of system I am thinking about, would appreciate any help from the more technical members of the community,I really have a hard time picturing anything other than the cybertruck in the garage but if it does not have v2g then I might have to learn more about what ford is offering. Seems a waste to not have 200kw as backup power.

This is very similar to what we built. Well not likely visibly, we have a dome, but all electric, very energy efficient.

I‘m pretty sure I could get away with just plugging the house into the truck as is. The big problem we’ll have is our hot water heater is on-demand which requires something like 80A at peak. I’m sure we only rarely use that 80A, but it is hanging over us.

I’ve been sketching out a solar water heater to pre-heat water before it hits our hot water heater and for use with the radiant heating system, but I just haven’t gotten to that point yet in our build. If we were able to get that solar hot water heater online, we’d be able to heat the house on sunny days and massively cut our water heating requirements.

 

[Crissa]

One cannot just go to a nearby supercharger, or any other, if the entire grid is down. If we are trying to plan around big events then you need to save EV power to get out of the down area.

Tesla trucks in batteries and generators so yes, you can.

And even then, there's almost never the case that there's no where within range to charge. Even a hurricane is only so wide.

Code does not cover temporary installation.

And yes, they want a physical disconnect and lock out, but you can do that with either a switch or pulling the physical breaker/plug (depending upon load) behind a physical lock.

-Crissa

 

[Jhodgesatmb]

Tesla trucks in batteries and generators so yes, you can.

And even then, there's almost never the case that there's no where within range to charge. Even a hurricane is only so wide.


Code does not cover temporary installation.

And yes, they want a physical disconnect and lock out, but you can do that with either a switch or pulling the physical breaker/plug (depending upon load) behind a physical lock.

-Crissa

What i meant is that you have to consider how much SOC to retain based on where you live and the type of event you might expect. For example, we live in a remote area with the closest supercharger about 15 miles away, and if there was a PSPS or some other event that knocked that one out we would need another15-20 miles to the next one. In fact we get paranoid with less than 70 miles SOC.

I am sure it takes Tesla a while to get batteries to supercharger sites.i have never seem one.

 

[Crissa]

Posit:

• A house uses about 25 kWh in a day.
• A Model 3 contains over 75 kWh.
• 25 kWh will get that Model 3 about 100 miles.

So you could use your vehicle for your primary aource of energy in hour your home without rationing...
For two days...
...And still have range to get to a charger a hundred miles away.

Tesla has specifically trucked in generators and built in battery supply and locations to avoid PSPS.

-Crissa

(It's actually 26, 78, and 26 kWh per 100 mi, and the Cybertruck will be different, but this is easier to math in the head)

 

[Dirt Worker]

Depending on how you use your CT get out your calculator and consider battery life span and replacement cost. We completed our home up in the sticks over a year ago. Being in the construction trade, I've seen most of the designs from partial to fully off grid using wind, solar and even hydro. I went with silent concrete hydronic floor heat (tankless LP gas) and cooled by heat pump through a plate heat exchanger. The upstairs floor is 1 1/2" stained concrete over 1 1/4" PT plywood and downstairs is 4" concrete over 2" foam board. We love our stained concrete floors. 12k of solar panels feed back into utility when not needed. A 12k LP gas generator as backup gives us peace of mind. Our well pump is controlled by three phase soft start frequency drive. A majority of solar installers will recommend this system as the most cost effective, lowest maintenance and efficient. The home is ready and waiting for CT with charge and discharge capability. Good luck with your home.

 

[madquadbiker]

This is very similar to what we built. Well not likely visibly, we have a dome, but all electric, very energy efficient.

I‘m pretty sure I could get away with just plugging the house into the truck as is. The big problem we’ll have is our hot water heater is on-demand which requires something like 80A at peak. I’m sure we only rarely use that 80A, but it is hanging over us.

I’ve been sketching out a solar water heater to pre-heat water before it hits our hot water heater and for use with the radiant heating system, but I just haven’t gotten to that point yet in our build. If we were able to get that solar hot water heater online, we’d be able to heat the house on sunny days and massively cut our water heating requirements.

I’ve had solar thermal for several years now, two large panels facing South will give me a full 200L hot water cylinder up to 40c even at this time of year, summer months it’s up to 90c by midday where I then transfer the hot water to my heat pump 100L buffer tank.

 

[Ogre]

For a second all I saw here was a Roomba with some squiggle lines and thought you’d mapped your Roomba tracks.

 

[ldjessee]

Depending on how you use your CT get out your calculator and consider battery life span and replacement cost. We completed our home up in the sticks over a year ago. Being in the construction trade, I've seen most of the designs from partial to fully off grid using wind, solar and even hydro. I went with silent concrete hydronic floor heat (tankless LP gas) and cooled by heat pump through a plate heat exchanger. The upstairs floor is 1 1/2" stained concrete over 1 1/4" PT plywood and downstairs is 4" concrete over 2" foam board. We love our stained concrete floors. 12k of solar panels feed back into utility when not needed. A 12k LP gas generator as backup gives us peace of mind. Our well pump is controlled by three phase soft start frequency drive. A majority of solar installers will recommend this system as the most cost effective, lowest maintenance and efficient. The home is ready and waiting for CT with charge and discharge capability. Good luck with your home.

Do you have it so when all that sun heats up the floor (and the fluid inside) that it can circulate it around to the rest of the house, without even running the heat? (ie, just run the pump)
This is a feature I have seen in some setups, but the cost seemed very high just for that feature...

Also, how many zones is your 1st and 2nd floor broken up into?

I found I really love radiant floor heat when I lived in Korea...

 

[Dirt Worker]

Do you have it so when all that sun heats up the floor (and the fluid inside) that it can circulate it around to the rest of the house, without even running the heat? (ie, just run the pump)
This is a feature I have seen in some setups, but the cost seemed very high just for that feature...

Also, how many zones is your 1st and 2nd floor broken up into?

I found I really love radiant floor heat when I lived in Korea...

Yes the pumps circulate passive solar in winter and works better than expected. 3 zones on each level.

 

[ldjessee]

Very nice and thanks for sharing!

 

[Hunter]

Also check out a sliding lockout bar, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/generator-lockout-kit/s?k=generator+lockout+kit which is simpler than a transfer switch box I think, or perhaps it's the same thing you were referring to. Anyway this is what I use for my emergency backfeeding to my house. I also rewired my main and sub panels so that only the critical stuff gets powered on by the external power source.

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