Which "Shocker" shock absorbing trailer hitch?

[Leemanpa]

Nope.. The original order was a drop/up 6" hitch... You cannot use it as an 'UP' hitch, because it does not allow you to pin it , due to a 1/3" misalignment.
When I spun it around as a drop hitch, it fit fine, but the 6" drop looked too close to the ground for my comfort. So I ordered a 4" drop as an accessory, for like $45, and it makes me feel better as far as ground clearance. Make sense??

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[Crissa]

Just a guess, but aluminum tends to fail with repeated flexing, that’s why airliners don’t pressurize to sea level when flying, just enough pressure to be comfortable. Roofs have exploded off of airliners do ti many explanations.

It's true the failure of aluminum is different than steel - as it's more brittle on average for the same strength - all metals will fatigue with flexing, especially expansion/compression. This is why airliners and submarines (and eventually spacecraft) will have a set number for their lifetime.

The number of flights that say, the Hawaiian Air flight did before failure was many multiples of a normal expected lifetime number of flights, because its flights were so short.

-Crissa

 

[Nice2CTu]

Nope.. The original order was a drop/up 6" hitch... You cannot use it as an 'UP' hitch, because it does not allow you to pin it , due to a 1/3" misalignment.
When I spun it around as a drop hitch, it fit fine, but the 6" drop looked too close to the ground for my comfort. So I ordered a 4" drop as an accessory, for like $45, and it makes me feel better as far as ground clearance. Make sense??

Totally makes sense, thanks for this guidance. I like the safe-weight product line (not from owning, just speaking from their website viewing). Was alarmed at CT owner manual stating 160 lb. tongue weight until it turned out as a typo and Tesla updated/corrected it to 1,100 lbs. recently. Am looking at Living Vehicle 2025 RV and have plenty of time before that is ready, but looking at hitch products.

 

[TickTock]

Total towing noob here and I want to get the "right" hitch for the cyber truck.

This shock absorbing trailer hitch looks like a good match for the truck, especially given the frame is aluminum. While I don't think this type of hitch is required by any means it looks like a good match since it should isolate some of the vibrations from reaching the truck.

https://shockerhitch.com/product/hd-max-black-super-drop-air-hitch/

I'd like to get a trailer to be able to tow things like side-by-sides/ATVs and maybe even a smaller camper one day. If I get the range battery then I would need to tow whenever I am picking up 4'x8' sheets of things so a smaller trailer would make sense given that some off the bed space will be used by the range battery.

Has anyone used this product or have recommendations on which options work well for the CT?

Great idea! If you get this, please follow-up on the forum.

 

[ecotrials]

FWIW, the Cybertruck manual calls out a maximum rearward ball position of 49 inches from rear axle. That corresponds to 8 inches from pin to ball.
Rearmost body point is 46 inches.

This is a concern for me. I currently use a 15 inch extender on my truck so I can lower the tailgate with the trailer attached. This way I can unload my dirt bike without having to detach the trailer. My trailer is a light weight hard-sided pop-up, weighing 2400 pounds empty. Probably around 3000-3500 pounds loaded. Since the CT specs are 1100 lb tongue weight and 11,000 lb trailer weight I hope that my trailer with the extension will fit into the design parameters. However, rather than hope, is there a way to calculate this? What measurements will I need to take? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[mongo]

This is a concern for me. I currently use a 15 inch extender on my truck so I can lower the tailgate with the trailer attached. This way I can unload my dirt bike without having to detach the trailer. My trailer is a light weight hard-sided pop-up, weighing 2400 pounds empty. Probably around 3000-3500 pounds loaded. Since the CT specs are 1100 lb tongue weight and 11,000 lb trailer weight I hope that my trailer with the extension will fit into the design parameters. However, rather than hope, is there a way to calculate this? What measurements will I need to take? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

So 15 inches additional from pin to ball and around 24 total? Non-advice: if you're 3x as far out, but 1/3 the tongue and trailer weight, that's equivilent from a static torque point of view. Moment of inertia depends on the square of distance though, but I'm still wrapping my brain around those forces.

 

[Woodrick]

This is a concern for me. I currently use a 15 inch extender on my truck so I can lower the tailgate with the trailer attached. This way I can unload my dirt bike without having to detach the trailer. My trailer is a light weight hard-sided pop-up, weighing 2400 pounds empty. Probably around 3000-3500 pounds loaded. Since the CT specs are 1100 lb tongue weight and 11,000 lb trailer weight I hope that my trailer with the extension will fit into the design parameters. However, rather than hope, is there a way to calculate this? What measurements will I need to take? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Measure distance from center of axle to the center of the ball multiple by loaded tongue weight. That gives you the foot pound of force.
Now measure the axle to the correct distance hitch and multiple by maximum tongue weight.

I hope that you do realize that the loading of the bike is crucial. The tongue weight should always be near 10% of the loaded trailer weight. Load the bike too far forward and you have too much weight, load it too far back and not enough.
For the best dynamics and hauling of the trailer, keep the tongue weight right. If it isn't then thinks like fishtailing can become dangerous.

 

[mongo]

Measure distance from center of axle to the center of the ball multiple by loaded tongue weight. That gives you the foot pound of force.
Now measure the axle to the correct distance hitch and multiple by maximum tongue weight.

That's overly optimistic. The hitch receiver is a separately bolted on unit and the torque on it is impacted by extended length at a much higher factor than the axle distance implies.
Pin to ball is conservative.

 

[HaulingAss]

A ball mount that has a tight fit in the truck's receiver is important, a shock-absorbing hitch is not desirable.

In N. America the tolerances between the ball mount and the receiver tend to be sloppy, relative to European hitches that prioritize a snug fit. If you have that, a shock absorbing hitch is superflous and could even help set up undesirable oscillations under the right conditions. I would avoid them as unnecessary.

 

[Woodrick]

That's overly optimistic. The hitch receiver is a separately bolted on unit and the torque on it is impacted by extended length at a much higher factor than the axle distance implies.
Pin to ball is conservative.

And in basic Statics and Dynamics, you learn that it's the force about a pendulum/axis. The force that it exerts in front of the rear axle is actually a negative force.

 

[mongo]

And in basic Statics and Dynamics, you learn that it's the force about a pendulum/axis. The force that it exerts in front of the rear axle is actually a negative force.

Yes, the hitch unloads the front axle, thus the need for weight distribution hitches.
However, that has little to do with the allowable loads on individual components in the hitch load path. If the receiver pin to forward most bolt location is 12 inches, then ball to bolt is 20 inches normally and 35 inches with a 15 inch extension. That's a 75% increase in lever arm.
Versus a 31% change when measured from the rear axle 49" to 64"

 

[Woodrick]

Yes, the hitch unloads the front axle, thus the need for weight distribution hitches.
However, that has little to do with the allowable loads on individual components in the hitch load path. If the receiver pin to forward most bolt location is 12 inches, then ball to bolt is 20 inches normally and 35 inches with a 15 inch extension. That's a 75% increase in lever arm.
Versus a 31% change when measured from the rear axle 49" to 64"

Okay, so you answer the question that was posted.

 

[Outdoors]

I never used them long term.

Yes they existed for many a years. I had a pretty good wheelbase to marry with my trailer. Before I put my Airstream on a side of a mountain I did just fine in hundreds of thousands of miles of towing.

I have tried them on others towing. They eliminate a bit of clunk. I think many are thinking of the old Cannondale bike frame cracking. Thinking aluminum can't flex therefore it will fail. Steel has a memory. I think that thought is misplaced. Gadgets exist in every facet for everything. Many a time to sell something. Would think that is why they smartly cast things. This isn't a bike weld.

I like simple that reduces failure points. I like a load leveling hitch and sway reducers. I don't plan on towing with the Cybertruck. So not sure if that would apply.

I would always level each load prior to leaving, and once at 250 at a level rest area or weigh station.

 

[charliemagpie]

I had considered the Shocker Hitch, but now leaning towards this :
https://www.ozglide.com.au/

It attaches to the RV, so no need to handle a heavy hitch, but it connects directly to the trailer .. no good if you need it for more than one trailer. I will use it on a 3 ton trailer, I think it will work for me. Bit pricey.

 

[Woodrick]

People are talking hitches as if there is a one size fits all solution. And that's just not the case.

There are hitches and configurations for smaller landscaping sized trailers.
There are solutions for large trailers with automatic brakes.
And there are solution for larger and heavier trailers.

Each tends to require their own solutions.
And two different similar trailers can require different height hitches.

Until you get to the larger trailers, hitches are easy, cheap and readily available at Walmart, Home Depot, and Lowes. There are multiple heights, and each are relatively cheap.

Don't even attempt to buy a one-size fits all solution.

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