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CyberTruck530

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It turns out I needed to remove the cover to scan an interior QR code. Those of you having trouble might try this. The one near the breaker acted like was the correct one but wouldn't finish the phone pairing.
Thanks for your reply which got me digging deeper in the instructions.
I'm glad that helped! I had to do the same thing, I forgot to include that on the post
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Korben Dallas

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I'm glad that helped! I had to do the same thing, I forgot to include that on the post
Would you mind clarifying which cover you are referring to? In fact, a picture would be even better for this soon to be 76 year old fart.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Would you mind clarifying which cover you are referring to? In fact, a picture would be even better for this soon to be 76 year old fart.

Thanks in advance.
When you open up the powershare gateway (nice looking rectangle box), you'll see a big gray panel and some breakers. There's one screw at the bottom. If you remove that, the full gray cover comes off. My qr code was near the top.

I can get a photo later on but it's just that one screw
 

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When you open up the powershare gateway (nice looking rectangle box), you'll see a big gray panel and some breakers. There's one screw at the bottom. If you remove that, the full gray cover comes off. My qr code was near the top.

I can get a photo later on but it's just that one screw
OK. Thank you. I’ll give that a try & hope it gets me a little farther down the PowerShare road.
 

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I have two pretty large solar systems which cause the input power during off-grid operation to exceed 10 kilowatts or so. When this happens one of the two systems will shut itself off, it has a solar edge inverter which will try every 5 minutes or so to power up again. This condition seem to be alleviated when I had a large load on the house, I turned on two central air conditioners, then both systems seem to power the house and truck at full solar output which was roughly 12 to 12.5 kw. I will likely reconnect to the grid when this condition exists, which it will anyway when the battery is fully charged since I export a lot of power normally.
I relay this experience in case you find yourself in a similar situation. It would be even more annoying if I had only one large inverter which exceeded this 10 kilowatt threshold. Something to consider when architecting a solar configuration connecting to power share ...
 


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I have two pretty large solar systems which cause the input power during off-grid operation to exceed 10 kilowatts or so. When this happens one of the two systems will shut itself off, it has a solar edge inverter which will try every 5 minutes or so to power up again. This condition seem to be alleviated when I had a large load on the house, I turned on two central air conditioners, then both systems seem to power the house and truck at full solar output which was roughly 12 to 12.5 kw. I will likely reconnect to the grid when this condition exists, which it will anyway when the battery is fully charged since I export a lot of power normally.
I relay this experience in case you find yourself in a similar situation. It would be even more annoying if I had only one large inverter which exceeded this 10 kilowatt threshold. Something to consider when architecting a solar configuration connecting to power share ...
Ideally, both the solar inverter and battery storage system would use production / load scaling based on frequency and/or voltage deviation. That allows gradually curtailment of generation versus just a hard cut off.
 

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my systems just lower the solar input if batteries are full and not using power. nothing shuts down unless you use too much power (more than inverter can deliver) or batteries are dead and no solar input (however it can start the generators if attached in this case). I have no connection to the grid and PG&E does not buy solar power from consumers anymore. people would fill their batteries at night then sell during peak usage for more money.
 

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my systems just lower the solar input if batteries are full and not using power. nothing shuts down unless you use too much power (more than inverter can deliver) or batteries are dead and no solar input (however it can start the generators if attached in this case). I have no connection to the grid and PG&E does not buy solar power from consumers anymore. people would fill their batteries at night then sell during peak usage for more money.
I'm curious if your input power exceeds 10 kilowatts and if you have an enphase versus solar edge inverter. My suspicion is that this is a gateway input power limitation that makes the solar over voltage, which would trigger a grid outage type shut down.
 

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I'm curious if your input power exceeds 10 kilowatts and if you have an enphase versus solar edge inverter. My suspicion is that this is a gateway input power limitation that makes the solar over voltage, which would trigger a grid outage type shut down.
By the way, if it wasn't clear, power share continued to power the house and charge the truck but with only one of two solar systems when the total input power exceeded 10 kw. I have up to 13 during peak and feel like I want to fully utilize both systems. I don't know about any risk for having an emergency shutdown in the inverter every 5 minutes for hours at a time, that might be okay but I don't have insight into the design to know if that's stressful.
 


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I have two inverters one on main house (also powers a cabin and water pumps) and one on my son's cabin both are EG4 6000 watt house has 6000 watts solar, cabin has 4600 watts of solar. also have 60 KWH of battery. building garage will have EG4 12000 watt inverter with 13000 watts of solar, just for charging trucks. will have 15 KWH of battery to power lights and garage doors.
 

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I have two inverters one on main house (also powers a cabin and water pumps) and one on my son's cabin both are EG4 6000 watt house has 6000 watts solar, cabin has 4600 watts of solar. also have 60 KWH of battery. building garage will have EG4 12000 watt inverter with 13000 watts of solar, just for charging trucks. will have 15 KWH of battery to power lights and garage doors. only have shutoff on solar panels. inverter has it's own breakers for battery, supply, and solar. I do not have public utilities. I use propane for hot water and stove, do not like electric stove. electric water heaters do not get as hot as gas nor as fast. cabin is the same with propane stove and water heater.
 

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I have two inverters one on main house (also powers a cabin and water pumps) and one on my son's cabin both are EG4 6000 watt house has 6000 watts solar, cabin has 4600 watts of solar. also have 60 KWH of battery. building garage will have EG4 12000 watt inverter with 13000 watts of solar, just for charging trucks. will have 15 KWH of battery to power lights and garage doors. only have shutoff on solar panels. inverter has it's own breakers for battery, supply, and solar. I do not have public utilities. I use propane for hot water and stove, do not like electric stove. electric water heaters do not get as hot as gas nor as fast. cabin is the same with propane stove and water heater.
It's great to have more sophisticated inverters which likely can switch and control output of individual solar strings. My solaredge 10kW and 7.5 kW clearly can't. These were 3rd party installed (not Tesla), though Tesla offered the same thing. I might investigate Enphase or one like yours if PGE delivery fee keeps going up. Every kWh they provide is 15c, regardless if you are a net exporter. Thanks for info - others just be aware of this condition when operating. Probably best to switch off solar to make sure your input is less than 10 kilowatts, and also shut it off when your battery is nearing full charge, you can turn it on again after the battery drains a bit.
 

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It's great to have more sophisticated inverters which likely can switch and control output of individual solar strings. My solaredge 10kW and 7.5 kW clearly can't. These were 3rd party installed (not Tesla), though Tesla offered the same thing. I might investigate Enphase or one like yours if PGE delivery fee keeps going up. Every kWh they provide is 15c, regardless if you are a net exporter. Thanks for info - others just be aware of this condition when operating. Probably best to switch off solar to make sure your input is less than 10 kilowatts, and also shut it off when your battery is nearing full charge, you can turn it on again after the battery drains a bit.
What are the model numbers of your inverters?
 
 








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