The Cost of Installing a Level II Charger at Home

[Mikec3399]

https://youtu.be/BruuIsa4ANE?si=c7sW2qrcH9VcOwQj

good luck with that

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[Mikec3399]

Hmmmmm

Q: How does Tesla respond to NEMA 14-50 questions?

A: While an existing NEMA 14-50 outlet will work to charge the car, you would need to purchase the $35 adapter from Tesla to make it work, they are not provided with the vehicle.

Tesla does not recommend installing a new NEMA 14-50 outlet to charge your car. Installing a Tesla Wall Connector is the recommendation, and it is for a number of reasons.

First off, the electrical code has changed to require all new NEMA 14-50 outlets be installed on GFCI breakers. The Tesla already has one on-board to protect itself, and if you have two GFCIs on the same circuit, they tend to trip each other, making for a very unreliable charging setup. Not all building departments are enforcing this code requirement, though, so you’ll have to check with your electrician if you might be able to get away with a standard breaker on a new NEMA 14-50 outlet.

Second, the maximum charge rate for a Model S on a NEMA 14-50 outlet is 23 miles of charge per hour. The Wall Connector on a 60amp circuit will give you 34 miles of charge per hour, so 50% faster charging.

Third, the reliability of charging on a NEMA 14-50 outlet is limited by design and quality of the outlet your electrician buys. There is a $15 (Leviton brand) residential grade NEMA 14-50 outlet sold at Home Depot that is not sufficient to support daily vehicle charging. The Leviton outlet has fiberglass insulators that tend to melt out after a few months of vehicle charging. The outlets are not designed specifically for EV charging; they are designed for plugging in RVs and range ovens. Ranges will pull max power once in a while when we roast a turkey, but EV charging will be pulling maximum amperage for hours on end every night. For this heavy use, we recommend an industrial grade NEMA 14-50 outlet, by one of these three brands: Hubbell, Bryant, or Cooper. These use glass or ceramic insulators and should last 3-5 years before they, too, eventually need to be replaced. At $50 – $100, they are not cheap.

Fourth, installing a Tesla Wall Connector lets you keep the mobile connector that comes with the car in the car. If you are using the cord that comes with the car to charge at your home every night, you will need to unplug it and take it with you every time you travel, which is time consuming and will wear out your plug faster. Most owners in this situation end up purchasing a second Mobile Connector Bundle to keep in the car as a backup, which is ~$300. Many folks expect to save some money by installing the NEMA 14-50 outlet instead of the Wall Connector, but that usually doesn’t end up being the case in the long run.

So for faster charging, a more reliable charging setup, a future-proofed design (the Gen3 Wall Connector gets OTA firmware updates), and a better looking unit, the Tesla Wall Connector is our only recommendation. I have attached the Gen3 Wall Connector installation guide as a reference.

I hope this helps!

Jonas Clausen | Tesla Installation Project Manager
47700 Kato Rd. | Fremont, CA 94538

thanks for your input, safety first

 

[Jhodgesatmb]

Before I bought my Y Model a few years ago, I had prepped my garage for it with a level II charger.
I have a 15KW solar panel system which is still under warranty. I could wire the charger myself but I was concerned about voiding the warranty.
I bought the Tesla charging unit on-line then put out a solicitation for bids to install it to about 20 electricians in the surrounding area.
A few responded with a quote without even coming to my house.
Some never responded at all.
11 did respond and sent a rep to survey the job. The breaker boxes were right next to where I wanted the unit installed and I removed the drywall in advance. The material in addition to the charger was; 5' of conduit, 10' of 12 gauge wire, a 60amp breaker and a few conduit clamps.
The range of bids from those who surveyed the job went from $320 - $3500. Nothing really to warranty the job other than the breaker.
I gave the job to the lowest bidder and he was able to do the job in about 10 minutes.

Mine were both installed by electricians that have done many EV charger installations, and they had horror stories to tell. Mine both cost about the same as the wall connector itself, so about $500 each. I wouldn't say that it was a 10-minute job but it wasn't hours either. It depends on what the distance is, whether you are putting up a separate panel for the charger and solar, etc. Everyone in the know says to put them on a separate panel.

 

[Jhodgesatmb]

Any trepidation about having your charger/cable out on the street? I live in a nice neighborhood but still feel a little weird installing my charger outside. Maybe im being weird? There is a video on youtube where the guy comes out of his house and finds a lady charging her ev. He's telling her it's private property and she argues that she needs a charge and he has to force her out

Both of ours are outside but we have a very long driveway on a quiet street.

 

[Jhodgesatmb]

Im not going to order one and will demand a charger if i don't see it in my truck at delivery. If the give me any grief, I will point them to @Legend_'s post

We used the mobile charging cable for our Model Y (our first one) once, to connect to a Rivian Adventure Charger in Yosemite. Slow as a turtle. Now we only use Tesla superchargers and make sure we can get to one. So all of the adapters and cable just sit in their bags. The best you can get on one of those is, I think, 240V at 20A. I get less than 30 miles per hour charged on 240V/48A so that cable might get you 12 miles per hour charged.

Tesla has, to my knowledge, never given a wall connector with their cars.

 

[EasternSP]

The Tesla level II wall charger is programmable so it only works with the VIN numbers that you provide to it. If anyone else tries to charge from it, nothing happens.

 

[Coaly]

My 2026 AWD came with mobile connector. It allows 240v charging up to 32 amps, so 40 amp breaker using 8 gauge is acceptable.

I was planning on a wall charger using 60 amp breaker and 6 gauge.

With unknown PCS failures pointing to higher amperage charging as the possible common denominator, I only use the mobile connector dialed down to 28 amps.

I have only charged at home, driven locally, charges to 80% in a few hours. Wall charger for me is overkill at this point. I used the 6 gauge purchased before receiving truck, and will be ready to upgrade to the 48 amp capable wall charger when PCS issues are sorted out.

 

[Steel Horse]

I hope they used larger than 12 gauge

It should be 6 gauge. I used 4 but that’s overkill.

 

[Legend_]

good luck with that

Not understanding what you mean. I have 2025 and a 2026 Cybertruck and I also purchased a 2026 Model Y for my son and both the 2026’s came with Mobil chargers.

 

[CyberGus]

Tesla has, to my knowledge, never given a wall connector with their cars.

Foundation Cybertrucks included a PowrShare credit and a UWC.

 

[Outdoors]

With unknown PCS failures pointing to higher amperage charging as the possible common denominator

Ok Wes. Another dream of a guess.

 

[Coaly]

Ok Wes. Another dream of a guess.

What do you think makes half an inverter fail? High amperage draw. Retired from the RV industry that serviced converters and inverters, granted they were not planer type coils, and DC DC converters were called regulators, basic electrical principles haven’t changed.

Time will tell if higher AC charge rates are the cause. I’m not taking that chance since I’m not in a hurry to charge.

 

[Outdoors]

What do you think makes half an inverter fail? High amperage draw. Retired from the RV industry that serviced converters and inverters, granted they were not planer type coils, and DC DC converters were called regulators, basic electrical principles haven’t changed.

Time will tell if higher AC charge rates are the cause. I’m not taking that chance since I’m not in a hurry to charge.

Dude from RV industry. This is EV industry. Your causation while admirable in thought has no basis in this world of PCS issues.

Tesla has known issues across all models in the PCS. If a simpleton explanation was all that was needed. Don't you think in the last 4 years Tesla would have told us all to dial down our amperage.

Like I said, go hop in your airstream and tow yourself away from this conversation, and yes time will tell.

 

[Coaly]

Dude from RV industry. This is EV industry. Your causation while admirable in thought has no basis in this world of PCS issues.

Tesla has known issues across all models in the PCS. If a simpleton explanation was all that was needed. Don't you think in the last 4 years Tesla would have told us all to dial down our amperage.

Like I said, go hop in your airstream and tow yourself away from this conversation, and yes time will tell.

Retired after 25 years in the RV industry.

I started out with Volkswagen of America and have a master ASE cert. with a background in aviation. A&P license to be exact from 1978 before some of you were born. That’s when they called us mechanics, not Techs. So not quite the Airstream variety, nor would I recommend one.

Early 80’s dealt with fuel pump wiring from relay mounted on fuse block cooking the fuel pump wiring harness. High amperage draw. Then compound the issue with a stupid antenna gromet in fender well that leaked onto fuse box. Went into RV business and dealt with more high amperage draw with Norcold gas/ electric fridges. Another relay on control board incapable of amperage required. Next issue; circuit boards in furnaces failing due to heat. Understand the common denominator? Heat generated by high amperage draw or other sources. When troubleshooting start at the source, using the basics. Of course it could be a weak component failing, my money is on amperage draw.

Personally I think the Forum could use those of us from the automotive industry with certs. and inspection licenses. I’ll let myself out.

 

[Outdoors]

Retired after 25 years in the RV industry.

I started out with Volkswagen of America and have a master ASE cert. with a background in aviation. A&P license to be exact from 1978 before some of you were born. That’s when they called us mechanics, not Techs. So not quite the Airstream variety, nor would I recommend one.

Early 80’s dealt with fuel pump wiring from relay mounted on fuse block cooking the fuel pump wiring harness. High amperage draw. Then compound the issue with a stupid antenna gromet in fender well that leaked onto fuse box. Went into RV business and dealt with more high amperage draw with Norcold gas/ electric fridges. Another relay on control board incapable of amperage required. Next issue; circuit boards in furnaces failing due to heat. Understand the common denominator? Heat generated by high amperage draw or other sources. When troubleshooting start at the source, using the basics. Of course it could be a weak component failing, my money is on amperage draw.

Personally I think the Forum could use those of us from the automotive industry with certs. and inspection licenses. I’ll let myself out.

Ok. I can beat my chest as well. Held many a failed PCS and earlier versions in my hand. Was in the room with many a early Tesla roadster when train components where discussed being used. We all know something. Yet we all know nothing.

Best solution would be to X Wes and ask him what's going on. The people I knew at Tesla left many moons ago. That's how I got a sub 2000 vin on everything they ever made.

Beating chest done. I am already out.

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