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Dclewis

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I customized this STL to fit a V1, it mounts perfectly. My only issue now is since taking the housing off to wire tap, my lane visualization is dancing, and the cruise control is saying poor visibility. I looked at all the cameras on the service menu, and I think they are fine. I have no base-line to compare to. So I just decided to run a recalibration… now I need to drive 100 or so miles and see if that does the trick.
has anyone had this issue? If so did you have to do anything to resolve it?
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asucher

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I customized this STL to fit a V1, it mounts perfectly. My only issue now is since taking the housing off to wire tap, my lane visualization is dancing, and the cruise control is saying poor visibility. I looked at all the cameras on the service menu, and I think they are fine. I have no base-line to compare to. So I just decided to run a recalibration… now I need to drive 100 or so miles and see if that does the trick.
has anyone had this issue? If so did you have to do anything to resolve it?
Can't help with your issue but can you share the modified STL (I was planning to do the same thing and just haven't gotten to it yet)?
 

Dclewis

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Can't help with your issue but can you share the modified STL (I was planning to do the same thing and just haven't gotten to it yet)?
Sure, I’ll post it on this thread later this afternoon, when I get back from work.
 

bkandy3

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Didn’t have that issue after wiretapping. That’s bad luck. Sorry. I’m surprised they would be related, unless there’s a wire that goes down to the front camera and it got pinched?
 

XCeilidhX

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I haven’t looked into them (laser jammers) too much since they’re illegal in CA and I didn’t really want to spend a couple grand. I had briefly looked into the Uniden R9.

But yeah, that’s the best way for sure.

The model I mentioned isn't a laser jammer by itself. There is an add on for that if you want it. The main theoretical benefit is that the receivers that sense the radar and laser are mounted on the outside of the vehicle so the front sensor is on the front bumper or hood somewhere and the rear sensor would be mounted on the tailgate or rear bumper or beside the license plate somewhere etc. My thinking was that with the stainless steel panels blocking the laser or radar to some degree from certain angles if you have all the detectors on one unit inside the cabin you could be missing detection of signals that could then hamper the utility of the detector whereas sensors mounted outside would have the maximal chances of picking up signals as soon as possible thus giving the highest chance of being able to make a speed correction before being busted and ticketed. Not sure if that logic holds up in the real world or not.

FWIW

Cheers
 
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bkandy3

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Interesting. When I looked it up I thought it was a jammer, but now see that it can pair with the jammer.

My understanding, which is not much, is that nothing but a jammer will really matter for a laser. I’ve read it’s not like the radar that hits a car a ways from you and bounces around to give you an early warning. If you get a laser detection hit, it’s the one from the cop and it’s too late. May not be true, but what I consistently read.

As for outside radar detection being better than in the windshield to pick up more signal and not be blocked by steel panels and tonneau, that’s a good question. Seems logical to me that it would be better. But, how much better, I have no clue.

Curious if we have any experts to chime in. I’m clearly not one. Just regurgitating what I’ve read.
 

bkandy3

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Alright, this is Xometry Nylon 12 off the first version of this new setback redesign. Initially, no sag. We’ll see how it holds up on the road and in the summer. Thanks again OP!

Tesla Cybertruck 3D print mount for Uniden radar detector IMG_1476
Tesla Cybertruck 3D print mount for Uniden radar detector IMG_1475
Tesla Cybertruck 3D print mount for Uniden radar detector IMG_1474

 

M0unt41nm4n

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Alright, this is Xometry Nylon 12 off the first version of this new setback redesign. Initially, no sag. We’ll see how it holds up on the road and in the summer. Thanks again OP!
Thank for the pics and video. That turned out really nice. Please let us know how it turns out in the heat.
 


bkandy3

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Please let us know how it turns out in the heat.
Will do. It usually doesn’t get close to 100 here until Aug/Sept, but I may drive it to Vegas in July. Debating if I want to deal with stopping and supercharging, or just taking a different car.

Initial quality is good. Went over some speed bumps quickly and no issues.
 

M0unt41nm4n

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Will do. It usually doesn’t get close to 100 here until Aug/Sept, but I may drive it to Vegas in July. Debating if I want to deal with stopping and supercharging, or just taking a different car.

Initial quality is good. Went over some speed bumps quickly and no issues.
Sounds good... for $23, I just ordered one. I read the N12 is quite strong and is good to 180C. If it has issues melting, I will just bite the bullet and order an aluminum one for about $169. Thats about the same price that Blend Mount sells theirs for other Teslas, so I think its a fair amount.
 

bkandy3

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Sounds good... for $23, I just ordered one. I read the N12 is quite strong and is good to 180C. If it has issues melting, I will just bite the bullet and order an aluminum one for about $169. Thats about the same price that Blend Mount sells theirs for other Teslas, so I think its a fair amount.
My exact findings and thought process too.
 
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gaubong053

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Sounds good... for $23, I just ordered one. I read the N12 is quite strong and is good to 180C. If it has issues melting, I will just bite the bullet and order an aluminum one for about $169. Thats about the same price that Blend Mount sells theirs for other Teslas, so I think its a fair amount.
If you guys want, I can print one that use PA6-CF material, just PM me.
 
 








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