ProtectaClear application do-over by Out of Spec Detailing

[kobratoldya]

Thanks!

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[Chris9702L]

This is my second time trying the BFK+Windex combo and I’m left with splotches, streaks, and inconsistencies. I wonder what I’m doing wrong. I’ve been following Out of Specs tips the best that I can. Any tips?

I’ve done the process and sometimes you have to do it 2 or 3 times. I did one panel at a time and maybe went back to give it another pass. I used the swirl motion but I don’t know if it made a difference. When I did it I bought a whole pack of the microfiber clothes from Sam’s. I had one just for the BF and tossed it when it got dirty. I had a second one just to get the BF off with Windex. And then a third one with maybe using 1 light squirt of Windex to get any fine residual off.

 

[kobratoldya]

I’ve done the process and sometimes you have to do it 2 or 3 times. I did one panel at a time and maybe went back to give it another pass. I used the swirl motion but I don’t know if it made a difference. When I did it I bought a whole pack of the microfiber clothes from Sam’s. I had one just for the BF and tossed it when it got dirty. I had a second one just to get the BF off with Windex. And then a third one with maybe using 1 light squirt of Windex to get any fine residual off.

Thanks! I would live to see a pic of the final result

 

[Chris9702L]

Colton trying so hard to make the product work. Three months since I started using the product and it has by far been the worse experience of owning a Cybertruck to date. What a stupid way to ruin the Cybertruck experience. After the countless hours of trying to make it work, fixing, stripping, re-applying, I finally spent the whole weekend to strip the entire truck and apply the DIY Metal Ceramic Coat. Took three hours and urned out perfectly, imagine that.

I was offered a 50% refund if I paid for return shipping. No thanks, it’s easier to dispose of it with my old paint cans at the next city event.

Oh please go away. Everyone knows you had a bad experience. And you lost all credibility when you say Out of Spec took a bribe to give the company a good review (from the comments you made in the Youtube video). I was there all day during the video and watched the process. It can be done successfully and good results can be achieved.
What can we learn of Will’s misfortune. For one the applicators have been improved. Now you use the big round one. But the big thing is just do one section (the frunk hood is perfect) to get your technique down. Don’t do the whole entire truck and realize you can’t apply it that great ?‍ Some people can get it and some people can’t. Kyles wife had a little trouble applying the DIY Detail coating. there is some trial and error to get the right touch for these coatings.

 

[Adrenalinwill]

Oh please go away. Everyone knows you had a bad experience. And you lost all credibility when you say Out of Spec took a bribe to give the company a good review (from the comments you made in the Youtube video). I was there all day during the video and watched the process. It can be done successfully and good results can be achieved.
What can we learn of Will’s misfortune. For one the applicators have been improved. Now you use the big round one. But the big thing is just do one section (the frunk hood is perfect) to get your technique down. Don’t do the whole entire truck and realize you can’t apply it that great ?‍ Some people can get it and some people can’t. Kyles wife had a little trouble applying the DIY Detail coating. there is some trial and error to get the right touch for these coatings.

I am genuinely glad you had your truck done for free and it turned out to your liking. Telling me to go away seems a bit Immature though.

Did Colton take the $5000 that Everbrite was referring to? Bribe money? Hit piece? Not my words. Kinda SUS. Chris. I value your opinion even though you were the side show helping with the application. Try doing it yourself and then have Everbrite tell you it’s your fault.

The purpose of this forum is for people to express their opinions and help each other out. Telling people to “Go Away” for expressing their opinion is such a dick move. Chris.

 

[Chris9702L]

I am genuinely glad you had your truck done for free and it turned out to your liking. Telling me to go away seems a bit Immature though.

Did Colton take the $5000 that Everbrite was referring to? Bribe money? Hit piece? Not my words. Kinda SUS. Chris. I value your opinion even though you were the side show helping with the application. Try doing it yourself and then have Everbrite tell you it’s your fault.

The purpose of this forum is for people to express their opinions and help each other out. Telling people to “Go Away” for expressing their opinion is such a dick move. Chris.

Simple fact is the coating can be applied right and look good (as many people can attest too). You apparently did not apply it right.

 

[Obecalb]

If you get it right it looks really, really good. If you get it wrong it looks terrible. The line separating the two looks pretty thin. Definitely watch this video if you plan on using it. I suspect people get into trouble the most when they put it on too thick. Much cheaper option than PPF. Definitely going to try it out.

I did it to my truck a week ago. Put it on thin and had to do 3 coats. Overall I am happy with the results. I have one small run I will fix sometime. I think the hardest thing is that it will stick dust and lint when wet. That part is hard to control. But you have to look close to notice. I did mine in a closed garage.

 

[DMC-81]

This is my second time trying the BFK+Windex combo and I’m left with splotches, streaks, and inconsistencies. I wonder what I’m doing wrong. I’ve been following Out of Specs tips the best that I can. Any tips?

Yes, here’s a tip from my experience with BKF: You should follow the instructions on the BKF package rather than this YouTuber’s advice:

Soft Cleanser How to use BKF Soft Cleanser Shake well before using. Squeeze BKF onto wet surface or damp sponge. Rub onto soiled surface. Rinse thoroughly within one minute of application. Wipe surface dry. A Word of Caution about BKF Because our Soft Cleanser is acidic and contains polishing compounds, BKF may etch or dull delicate surfaces. Before applying to fiberglass, plastics, anodized aluminum or brushed metal surfaces, such as appliance exteriors, test in a small, hidden area first.

https://www.barkeepersfriend.com.au/how-to-use/

The key is rinsing thoroughly (with water). As the instructions state, it will etch plastics. So, when rinsing, you need to rinse the BKF off any plastics that it runs on thoroughly and right away. I’m specifically talking about the black wheel arches, rocker panels and bumpers.

Because the instructions state to rinse within one minute, I would apply BKF to one panel and rinse/ wash that panel right away, followed by another wash of the entire vehicle when done cleaning all panels.

In my opinion, the streaking, splotches, and inconsistencies you are left with are because you are not getting the BKF residue off completely, and because you are using Windex.

Here are some of my previous posts on this topic:

Using Barkeepers Friend:

#15 , #5, #32

Washing and Cleaning Fingerprints:

#40, #11

Don’t Use Windex and other advice

#13 ,#18, #24, #45, #37

 

[NorthernVirginiaCT]

Thanks for the great video Colton and Jackie!

In case it might be helpful - see below for my notes from your great new video:


Prepping the Cybertruck: 17:47
1. If the truck is very dirty, wash it first and make sure it is completely dry, including in all the seams and crevices.
2. Tape off the plastic and rubber areas of your Cybertruck, as well as your lights, using painter's tape. Take extra care taping off the soft rubber areas around the bottom of your windows.
3. Put on gloves to avoid leaving fingerprints.

• Note: Perform steps 4-6 on each side of the truck before moving on to the next side of the truck. This keeps the acid from the Barkeeper's Friend from sitting too long in any one area. Then, perform step 7 on the entire truck.

4. Apply Bar Keepers Friend to a towel you folded twice, and apply it to the entire truck, working panel by panel. This will remove any tea staining, fingerprints, and impurities to create an even bright silver finish. Although Everbrite prefers the spray+foam spray bottle version of Bar Keeper's Friend, Out of Spec Detailing/Clear Detailing prefers the soft cleanser compound (bottle) version, which includes microabrasives that could be more powerful at cleaning your cybertruck. [My personal view is that the soft cleanser version seems to do a better job.]
5. If you Bought Everbrite's Cybertruck kit, put Stainless Steel Rust Remover in a metal pan (e.g., aluminum disposable loaf pan), and dip a new towel in it. Also, put EZ Prep in another pan (mixing 1-2 ounces of EZ Prep per gallon of water). Apply the Stainless Steel Rust Remover to the entire truck, and as you apply it, within 30-60 seconds go back over each spot with the EZ Prep/water mixture (i.e., wipe it first with the Stainless Steel Rust Remover, and then wipe on top of it with the EZ Pre/water mixture).
6. Wipe down each panel with Windex to further clean your truck and neutralize the pH.
7. Wipe the entire truck with 99% isopropyl alcohol to ensure the surface is completely clean, dry, and residue-free before coating. This gives you a more even finish, but the main reason why it's important is that it removes any remaining water to allow the ProtectaClear to properly bond to the metal.

Applying ProtectaClear: 43:50

• Note: You want to install ProtectaClear in a shaded area and not in direct sunlight. A garage is the best place to do it. If there are a lot of things in the air near you (e.g., pollen, bugs, etc.), consider installing ProtectaClear in a different environment (e.g., a parking garage). Apply it with a temperature of 40-100 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity below 80%. You want to have the best lighting possible, so consider bringing extra lights to better see what you're doing.

1. If you don't have them on already, put on "nitrile" gloves, which provide you with better protection than standard gloves. They are included in Everbrite's Cybertruck kit, and they are also available on Amazon.
2. Pour about 4 oz of ProtectaClear into a solvent-safe container like a metal pan (e.g., aluminum disposable loaf pan). Do not use a plastic pan (unless it is solvent-rated), as the coating will eat through it.
3. Before you use the applicator, hit it against something for 30 seconds to get some of the lint off of it (1:07:53). Dip one of the special microfiber applicators provided in the ProtectaClear kit into the coating. Saturate it, but squeeze out the excess so it is damp but not dripping wet.
4. Work on one full panel at a time; quickly apply the coating to the Cybertruck in a thin, even layer using light pressure and long, overlapping strokes. It's better to put it on too thin than too thick. Use only the bottom of the applicator to apply it while avoiding touching the sides of the applicator to your Cybertruck. Use long wipes across the entire panel (e.g., all the way from the top left to the top right, then down slightly, then back all the way to the left, etc.). Start at the top of the panel and work your way down. When you remove the applicator from a section, go "up and away" (i.e., wipe the applicator to the edge as you remove it) to avoid leaving a circle of bubbles (e.g., by directly pulling it away). As you apply ProtectaClear, inspect the coating and quickly smooth out any drips, runs, or missed spots before moving on. Some slight rainbowing is normal. However, if more than about a minute has passed since you initially applied ProtectaClear to a section, wait for it to dry (at least 30-40 minutes) before you go back and fix it. Although you will likely see streaks after you apply ProtectaClear, it typically levels out as it dries. After you apply it, it is 1 millimeter thick, but after the solvent evaporates, it is only 3-4 microns thick (i.e., a very thin coating). Do the hood before you do the front of the frunk; this is because you don't want to have to lean over a section that's wet that you just completed and risk rubbing against it.
5. If you take a break in between applying ProtectaClear to different panels, wrap the applicator tightly in aluminum foil to keep it from drying out. However, if the bottom of the applicator is firm when you take it out of the aluminum, throw it away and use a new one.
6. Allow the first coat to dry for at least 30-40 minutes until it is dry to the touch.
7. If you see rainbows, it means more coating is necessary. For these areas, after waiting 30-40 minutes to allow the previous coating to dry, apply a second coat using the same method. Move the applicator faster this time. The second coat will help even out any rainbowing or imperfections.
8. Allow the coating to cure for 24 hours before driving, if possible. Wait a week before washing. The coating will fully cure in 4-5 days.

Fixing imperfections: 1:21:09

• Note: ProtectaClear consists of a solvent and resins, and the solvent is what melts the resins. After you apply ProtectaClear, the solvent evaporates, and the resins remain. Therefore, when you apply another coat of ProtectaClear, it will mix with and melt the existing resins from your previous application, and after the solvent evaporates, you will have a uniform coat.

1. If you notice any drips, runs, or areas of coating you aren't happy with, you can remove them after the coating dries using xylene or acetone on a lint-free towel. Xylene appears to work the best because it takes a while to evaporate, whereas acetone almost immediately evaporates. However, the following U.S. states typically do not allow consumers to purchase it: California, New York, Colorado, and Maryland. Make sure you are wearing gloves during this step, and have plastic areas taped off before you use it.
2. Use a shop towel, which is like a paper towel but is less likely to leave lint behind (e..g, from Amazon, CostCo, AutoZone, etc.). Wipe the solvent on the problem area using circular motions to dissolve and liquefy the coating. The coating will start to ball up or streak as you work the area. If it starts to feel sticky, switch to a new shop towel. Continue wiping until the coating is spread into a thin, even layer. The way to know that you're done is that you no longer feel any significant stickiness/tackiness when you wipe. However, if you're going to re-apply ProtectaClear, it's fine if there's still a small amount of stickiness.
3. You do not need to remove the coating completely down to the bare metal. Your goal is to spread out the imperfection and create a thin, uniform base layer for the new coating to blend into. Some slight streaking is normal and will not affect the final result.
4. Once you have the problem area evened out into a thin, smooth layer, stop wiping and discard the towel. Then, using your applicator, reapply a thin coat of ProtectaClear over the area you just leveled. The fresh coating will melt into the existing layer and self-level as it dries, blending invisibly with the surrounding finish.

Some useful insights and tips:
- Prepping properly is the most time-consuming part but also the most important for good results. Take your time and do it right.
- Having adequate lighting is very helpful to see what you're doing when applying the coating.
- Avoid installing in direct sunlight, high humidity over 80%, or temperatures below 40°F or above 100°F.
- Keep your applicator damp but not overly saturated to avoid drips and runs. Squeeze out excess and rewrap in aluminum foil between sections.
- Start with smaller, easier panels first to get a feel for the process before tackling large panels.
- Applying in thin coats is better than thick - you can always add another coat to fix imperfections, but drips and runs are harder to fix.
- Don't stress over small imperfections; the coating is very forgiving, and you can always fix problem areas later by removing them and reapplying them.
- Use the small round applicators to get into tight spaces around mirrors, handles, etc.
- Have patience, take your time, and don't rush it. Walk away and take breaks as needed, especially during the curing phase.

Windex

• At about 33:04 they cover how the use of Windex on the Cybertruck is controversial. Although they don't cover this in the video, here are some related data points.
• I saw in a YouTube video from another content creator who performed a metal assessment that determined Tesla likely used 304 stainless steel in the Cybertruck (i.e., with the "X" in 30X being a 4). If this is the case, then Windex should be fine. However, if Tesla had used a different type of stainless steel (e.g., 420), then Windex would have been an issue. That being said, Windex can damage window tinting.
• Stainless steel is generally resistant to corrosion from ammonia, but the extent of its resistance depends on the specific type of stainless steel and the concentration of the ammonia solution.

1. Austenitic stainless steels (e.g., 304 and 316) have excellent resistance to ammonia corrosion due to their high chromium and nickel content. These types of stainless steel are commonly used in applications involving ammonia, such as refrigeration systems and fertilizer production.
2. Ferritic stainless steels (e.g., 430 and 444) have lower corrosion resistance compared to austenitic grades. They may be suitable for use with low concentrations of ammonia but are more susceptible to stress corrosion cracking (SCC) in the presence of chlorides.
3. Martensitic stainless steels (e.g., 410 and 420) have the lowest corrosion resistance among the three main types of stainless steel. They are not recommended for use with ammonia due to their high susceptibility to SCC.

 

[agordon117]

This is my second time trying the BFK+Windex combo and I’m left with splotches, streaks, and inconsistencies. I wonder what I’m doing wrong. I’ve been following Out of Specs tips the best that I can. Any tips?

Yeah see he claims 2 passes of windex is enough. I did not find that to be true. Even if my second pass started with a fresh rag that had no residue on it, I often needed 3 rags for the removal of the bkf. I would rotate my rags. The clean 3rd rag would become the 2nd rag on the next spot i would apply bkf. Then the first on the 3rd spot. You can't have any residue within the microfiber on your final pass. Even if you switched to a fresh surface of the rag, it doesn't matter. If the rag is damp the residue will come through from the other side

I also found other glass cleaner that worked way better, but you can't just walk into a store and buy it. It also contains ammonia.

I mention it because there may be another glass cleaner that contains ammonia that's more effective at this than windex. I just dont want to play salesman because I know the owner of the injection molding company that sells the stuff I liked the best.


People love to say how you should only rinse the bkf and that's the only reason for issues. If you use water to rinse the bkf, and you don't perfectly rinse it off of the black plastic, it will turn white. You won't know by looking at it if you have gotten it all off. You will only know later if it doesn't leave drip marks on the plastic. My truck was delivered with these drip marks on my rockers, which I made them replace after being unable to remove the stains. I won't risk that happening again so I'm sticking with the much easier to control process of using glass cleaner

 

[Jwadoc]

Yeah see he claims 2 passes of windex is enough. I did not find that to be true. Even if my second pass started with a fresh rag that had no residue on it, I often needed 3 rags for the removal of the bkf. I would rotate my rags. The clean 3rd rag would become the 2nd rag on the next spot i would apply bkf. Then the first on the 3rd spot. You can't have any residue within the microfiber on your final pass. Even if you switched to a fresh surface of the rag, it doesn't matter. If the rag is damp the residue will come through from the other side

I also found other glass cleaner that worked way better, but you can't just walk into a store and buy it. It also contains ammonia.

I mention it because there may be another glass cleaner that contains ammonia that's more effective at this than windex. I just dont want to play salesman because I know the owner of the injection molding company that sells the stuff I liked the best.


People love to say how you should only rinse the bkf and that's the only reason for issues. If you use water to rinse the bkf, and you don't perfectly rinse it off of the black plastic, it will turn white. You won't know by looking at it if you have gotten it all off. You will only know later if it doesn't leave drip marks on the plastic. My truck was delivered with these drip marks on my rockers, which I made them replace after being unable to remove the stains. I won't risk that happening again so I'm sticking with the much easier to control process of using glass cleaner

 

[Chris9702L]

Yeah see he claims 2 passes of windex is enough. I did not find that to be true. Even if my second pass started with a fresh rag that had no residue on it, I often needed 3 rags for the removal of the bkf. I would rotate my rags. The clean 3rd rag would become the 2nd rag on the next spot i would apply bkf. Then the first on the 3rd spot. You can't have any residue within the microfiber on your final pass. Even if you switched to a fresh surface of the rag, it doesn't matter. If the rag is damp the residue will come through from the other side

I also found other glass cleaner that worked way better, but you can't just walk into a store and buy it. It also contains ammonia.

I mention it because there may be another glass cleaner that contains ammonia that's more effective at this than windex. I just dont want to play salesman because I know the owner of the injection molding company that sells the stuff I liked the best.


People love to say how you should only rinse the bkf and that's the only reason for issues. If you use water to rinse the bkf, and you don't perfectly rinse it off of the black plastic, it will turn white. You won't know by looking at it if you have gotten it all off. You will only know later if it doesn't leave drip marks on the plastic. My truck was delivered with these drip marks on my rockers, which I made them replace after being unable to remove the stains. I won't risk that happening again so I'm sticking with the much easier to control process of using glass cleaner

I totally agree with you! I also used the 3 rag solution (1 - BF, 2 - Windex rag to remove the BF, and 3(4) - fine cleaning rag with one side a light spray of Windex and then the other side that had nothing on it). In the video time lapse you can see me using that final 3 rag to get off any small residual spots. The surface was perfect before coating.

 

[Jwadoc]

I use the product. I was pleased with the results. I put it on my truck within a week of purchasing my truck. I believe that helped cleaning process. I have a few runs that I need to go back and clean up. if you follow the instructions and take your time, it turns out well. You do need to have realistic expectations. If you are not a professional, it will not look perfect. But it will look really good. You can go back and rework the areas and make it look perfect, but it will take time. I am happy with the product that I paid $250 for. I have realistic expectations for what I paid for what I paid for. If I want to put more time and effort in, I could make it look perfect. But I am very happy with the results.

 

[ChrisD8699]

I wonder if ProtectaClear would work well over gold plated CT. @ProtectaClear ?

Good idea to protect the gold. That gold layer would scratch off way too easy and needs the protection.

 

[cybertruckig]

If you get it right it looks really, really good. If you get it wrong it looks terrible. The line separating the two looks pretty thin. Definitely watch this video if you plan on using it. I suspect people get into trouble the most when they put it on too thick. Much cheaper option than PPF. Definitely going to try it out.

I tried twice and failed. Despite being meticulous, I couldn't find the right balance between too much and too little. I had to pay $30 to return the product to get half of my money back, but it was better than nothing. I liked how easy it was to wipe off the truck with Protectaclear applied.

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