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Art138

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I don't think it lasts. And I don't think any metals expert will sign off on this particular ammonia based Windex treatment. Not rinsing it and using a double ammonia windex finish is what he is doing. I don't think he can rinse it at this point because it will darken and/or dark spotting will probably show up by the next day.
I wonder if protectaclear over the aforementioned video finish would preserve it.
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Mini2nut

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“Passivate” it with Citrisurf 2310. (Basically apply similar to a quick and easy wax job except rinsing and drying instead of buffing). Cleans, brightens, removes stains, and leaves it feeling like a good wax job. And makes a huge difference in the amount of fingerprints and rain spots. Read about it elsewhere on this forum and really happy with the results.
I‘m still waiting for someone to try Tesla recommended Citrisurf 2310 applied with a blue non-scratch ScotchBrite pad.
 

ideaXfactory

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He says he's going to ceramic coat it... not use Protectaclear.
 


ideaXfactory

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I‘m still waiting for someone to try Tesla recommended Citrisurf 2310 applied with a blue non-scratch ScotchBrite pad.
I have done this, but not using a blue pad. Yes it works.

I don't think using a blue pad will scratch the finish though. A green pad will, and so is generally too rough to use...

I've also used the red and grey pads to match the Tesla finish as needed (to remove some scratches). They both also scratch the surface though, so they need to be used on an orbital sander, set to match the finish correctly.
 

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I have done this, but not using a blue pad. Yes it works.

I don't think using a blue pad will scratch the finish though. A green pad will, and so is generally too rough to use...

I've also used the red and grey pads to match the Tesla finish as needed (to remove some scratches). They both also scratch the surface though, so they need to be used on an orbital sander, set to match the finish correctly.
I didn’t use anything but paper towels and cloth rags. Did great without anything more abrasive, at least for my truck. Cleaned up like polishing tarnished silverware.
 

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“Passivate” it with Citrisurf 2310
Best advice I’ve read yet! It’s an easy process but makes the most sense for stainless. Just gotta find a way to keep it wet for 30 mins per CitiSurf instructions. Probably won’t bother during Texas summers.
 

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Best advice I’ve read yet! It’s an easy process but makes the most sense for stainless. Just gotta find a way to keep it wet for 30 mins per CitiSurf instructions. Probably won’t bother during Texas summers.
I didn’t really know what I was doing at first and it was partly in the sun. Did start to dry pretty fast and I only waited maybe 10 minutes before I started rinsing. Some of the “dried” citrisuf was still on and had turned white and pasty but went over it with a towel and it disappeared, reappeared less after each rinsing and dying/polishing cycle. Took maybe 3-4 times in the really sunny sections but it all looks the same and way better once finished. My only question now is should I do this often (like a regular car detailing) or not.
 

HaulingAss

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I actually prefer the tarnished look but this is good to know lol
I agree, the patina makes it look warmer and more timeless, less like a fussy, "pretty boy" truck, or a cold, clinical look, more like a real-world practical tool. I'll wait to see how heavy patina looks, it probably varies by the area it is used and parked in, what kind of industrial pollutants, natural pollen/vegetation lands on it, and what kind of soap is used when it's washed.

If it gets too dull, or too uneven, I'll just use a mild acid like Barkeepers Friend and start over periodically, maybe three or four times per year. I've yet to fully strip and polish it (beyond a normal soap and water wash) but, when I do, I still want to experiment with some high-quality waxes to see how that impacts the development and nature of the patina, and the ease of washing off road grime.

I like keeping my cars looking good, but not as show cars, that's just too fussy for me. Mine is parked outside with plenty of tree debris 100% of the time, and has been driven off-pavement nearly half its 1200 miles, and it still looks good after over a month and a week, with all the bugs on the front panel probably being the most obvious aesthetic detraction.

The color of outdoor lighting changes dramatically with cloud cover, cloudy days have much cooler color temperature, and we get a lot of cloudy days where I live in the PNW, especially in the mountains. That probably explains why I like the warm colored patina that naturally develops, and the Colorado Out of Spec guys like the colder bare steel look.

Plus, I've just been having too much fun using this incredible machine to spend much time fussing over it. It really is amazing!
 


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It absolutely will, just a wipe with acetone or denatured alcohol and then coat. Will keep the finish for at least a year or two.
Ugh, that's overkill, unless you have paint splatters... and even then a plastic putty knife will probably do it faster. Regular alcohol or isopropyl will be fine. No need to add a toxic gas to the mix.

-Crissa
 

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No. The BKF residue can be wiped off with Windex, then Windex dry off very soon.
I think Windex has ammonia in it. If so, the ammonia will remove (some? most? all?) of the passivation layer that results from using BKF. That passivation layer is key to stainless steel's resistance to corrosion.

I will use either clear water or some surfactant that doesn't contain ammonia to wash of the BFK residue. Water does a fine job on my stainless steel sinks and cookware after scrubbing them with BKF.

YMMV, of course....
 

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https://a.co/d/7LlA9ki I ordered this polisher this morning after watching the video. If your invested in Milwaukee battery’s this one looks like a slam dunk!
 

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Ok, just so I'm clear (not related to the video, just the general overall diversity of opinions / confusion) -
wash with soap and low pressure at 78*
followed by no soap and hi pressure between 2150psi and 2174 psi
then BFK with 3 yellow rags and 4 different orbital sanders from 2 different manufacturers
then develop a windex w/o Amonia and use sparingly - let dry for 16.5 minutes
followed by Iron X & Citrisurf applied at noon on odd days of the week
then use the 4 bottles of Tesla products - but be disappointed at bottle 2 & 4
don't get product on the plastic, tires or glass or the BAW (that needs a special cleaner made from Unicorn testicles)
repeat every 1.5 days and your truck will look amazing!
Did I get that right? :cool:


I don't have my truck so I have no flipped idea what's right. I'll start slow with normal wash with elec pressure washer then follow Tesla instructions (citrisurf) then escalate from there as needed. I was dead set on not wrapping my truck but it will sit outside in Colorado and get dirty daily given rain, snow, dust, etc and I don't have the time to angle grind it daily!
 

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You shouldn't use Windex to remove Bar Keeper's Friend. That'll form salts which will bind to the steel and not dry clean. Windex is for fingerprints.

I don't know why they say to do this. It is counter to Bar Keeper's Friend instructions.

-Crissa
The problem with using water to rinse off the BKF, is that it will run down on (and potentially stain) the black plastic. You can't prevent this by masking it off. You can prevent this with one strip of masking tape on each fender if you are doing the windex method.

it does take several passes with new rags each time to remove the bkf, but I'm unwilling to stain my plastic (it came delivered with stains on the rocker panels, likely from bkf+water), and I do not want that to happen again once they replace them. No matter how much water you use, even if you assume you will wash the truck, bkf, rinse, dry, waterless wash to remove the streaks... you cannot know for sure that you won't stain your rockers because "rinse" isn't controlled enough to know exactly how much bkf will run down on your plastic and sit there.
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