Instruction video please ! - AWESOMEI have replace my rear view mirror with a rear view mirror screen. It looks completely factory, even used the CT mirror mount to make it work.
The screen supports 2 inputs. One is on top of the truck and wired in through the tiny-gap between the glass and the trim. The other camera is mounted on the rear headliner and points into the vault.(so I can keep an eye on my dog when she is back there)
the current rear view camera I have sucks, and have a much better one on order, the view angle is just two much. It’s about the same as the factory camera, which is good for reversing, but not good for seeing cars behind you when driving.
This setup also uses 12v I found in the ceiling, and powers on when the car powers on.
Here are some better pics of the mirror, it’s not the best, and there is no way to adjust the brightness, so I’m not sure how great that will be at night.
This is the only thing I hate, but doesn’t look horrible.
I went through 3 mirrors before getting to this one. The others had slightly better image, and CarPlay built in. Which was assume, but they just rubberbanded to the existing mirror, which I would have fixed by just 3D printing a new mirror stem and mounting it to the screen. But the power and camera connection came out the top, making it look horrible. I wanted a factory look. Also this mirror supports two camera inputs, the others only supported one
Mirror:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rRAFc0001/rf/5ac54708-2806-4413-8283-b697c2e4b7f4/ use this link to sign up, and you get $20 rewards points.
after you create an account, buy the mirror here.
Vault camera:
https://a.co/d/cGqgwzf
Rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/7lFGqNM current one(not recommended, but works)
https://a.co/d/aUNTucG on order will update when I get it installed.
Extension cable for vault camera:
https://a.co/d/6U8Yt5S
Adapter for rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/eyGCxl3
You’ll also need 2.1mm barrel plugs to wire in.
Instructions (very vague, could make video if enough interest)
1. Remove all header trim from the interior of the truck, can leave driver side. (Tesla docs has instruction)
2. Find 12v power supply, I used the radio antenna module, it’s above the driver. I haven’t used radio in 15 years, so I left it unplugged, to avoid pulling too much amperage from that circuit. Note: It’s actually 15ish volts, but all hardware is for commercial applications, so it was rated at 12-24 volt
3. Remove factory mirror, will need to destroy it(unless you’re lucky, but consider it a loss, it was worthless anyway (although it was beautiful in its design)).
4. Open both mirrors and swap out the stem from the factory to the new one. Had to open it and remove the screen and electronics to make this work, take your time, it’s worth it.
5. Remove triangle cover on front window, and the PRDL panel and route the wires up into the main header trim.
6. Worst part: route the wires from the header to the back top of the truck. I went up through the 48 accessory hole, cut the grommet and siliconed the new wires in place, had to remove that whole top sail, and the panel above the door open button. Tesla docs again
7. I double sided the rear view camera to the top see pics, and routed the wires through a tiny hole I cut in the rubber gasket between the glass and the back. Tiny amount of silicon to seal it back up.
8. Mount the vault camera to the rear header trim, double sided sticky tape, I removed all mounting hardware and front glass from the camera(get closer to the window, so the IR lights don’t wash out the video)
9. Tuck it all back together and post pics here.
Yes. Very interesting is seeing a install video with links etc. and finding out how you camera update goes. Thanks for the information.I have replace my rear view mirror with a rear view mirror screen. It looks completely factory, even used the CT mirror mount to make it work.
The screen supports 2 inputs. One is on top of the truck and wired in through the tiny-gap between the glass and the trim. The other camera is mounted on the rear headliner and points into the vault.(so I can keep an eye on my dog when she is back there)
the current rear view camera I have sucks, and have a much better one on order, the view angle is just two much. It’s about the same as the factory camera, which is good for reversing, but not good for seeing cars behind you when driving.
This setup also uses 12v I found in the ceiling, and powers on when the car powers on.
Here are some better pics of the mirror, it’s not the best, and there is no way to adjust the brightness, so I’m not sure how great that will be at night.
This is the only thing I hate, but doesn’t look horrible.
I went through 3 mirrors before getting to this one. The others had slightly better image, and CarPlay built in. Which was assume, but they just rubberbanded to the existing mirror, which I would have fixed by just 3D printing a new mirror stem and mounting it to the screen. But the power and camera connection came out the top, making it look horrible. I wanted a factory look. Also this mirror supports two camera inputs, the others only supported one
Mirror:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rRAFc0001/rf/5ac54708-2806-4413-8283-b697c2e4b7f4/ use this link to sign up, and you get $20 rewards points.
after you create an account, buy the mirror here.
Vault camera:
https://a.co/d/cGqgwzf
Rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/7lFGqNM current one(not recommended, but works)
https://a.co/d/aUNTucG on order will update when I get it installed.
Extension cable for vault camera:
https://a.co/d/6U8Yt5S
Adapter for rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/eyGCxl3
You’ll also need 2.1mm barrel plugs to wire in.
Instructions (very vague, could make video if enough interest)
1. Remove all header trim from the interior of the truck, can leave driver side. (Tesla docs has instruction)
2. Find 12v power supply, I used the radio antenna module, it’s above the driver. I haven’t used radio in 15 years, so I left it unplugged, to avoid pulling too much amperage from that circuit. Note: It’s actually 15ish volts, but all hardware is for commercial applications, so it was rated at 12-24 volt
3. Remove factory mirror, will need to destroy it(unless you’re lucky, but consider it a loss, it was worthless anyway (although it was beautiful in its design)).
4. Open both mirrors and swap out the stem from the factory to the new one. Had to open it and remove the screen and electronics to make this work, take your time, it’s worth it.
5. Remove triangle cover on front window, and the PRDL panel and route the wires up into the main header trim.
6. Worst part: route the wires from the header to the back top of the truck. I went up through the 48 accessory hole, cut the grommet and siliconed the new wires in place, had to remove that whole top sail, and the panel above the door open button. Tesla docs again
7. I double sided the rear view camera to the top see pics, and routed the wires through a tiny hole I cut in the rubber gasket between the glass and the back. Tiny amount of silicon to seal it back up.
8. Mount the vault camera to the rear header trim, double sided sticky tape, I removed all mounting hardware and front glass from the camera(get closer to the window, so the IR lights don’t wash out the video)
9. Tuck it all back together and post pics here.
Looks like it's 212.46 USD from checking all the mirrors they have there.
I got my 120 degree camera in today. But still have to mount it and rerun the wires. I plugged it in at the unit, and it’s very promising.
This is what friends are for!I have replace my rear view mirror with a rear view mirror screen. It looks completely factory, even used the CT mirror mount to make it work.
The screen supports 2 inputs. One is on top of the truck and wired in through the tiny-gap between the glass and the trim. The other camera is mounted on the rear headliner and points into the vault.(so I can keep an eye on my dog when she is back there)
the current rear view camera I have sucks, and have a much better one on order, the view angle is just two much. It’s about the same as the factory camera, which is good for reversing, but not good for seeing cars behind you when driving.
This setup also uses 12v I found in the ceiling, and powers on when the car powers on.
Here are some better pics of the mirror, it’s not the best, and there is no way to adjust the brightness, so I’m not sure how great that will be at night.
This is the only thing I hate, but doesn’t look horrible.
I went through 3 mirrors before getting to this one. The others had slightly better image, and CarPlay built in. Which was assume, but they just rubberbanded to the existing mirror, which I would have fixed by just 3D printing a new mirror stem and mounting it to the screen. But the power and camera connection came out the top, making it look horrible. I wanted a factory look. Also this mirror supports two camera inputs, the others only supported one
Mirror:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rRAFc0001/rf/5ac54708-2806-4413-8283-b697c2e4b7f4/ use this link to sign up, and you get $20 rewards points.
after you create an account, buy the mirror here.
Vault camera:
https://a.co/d/cGqgwzf
Rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/7lFGqNM current one(not recommended, but works)
https://a.co/d/aUNTucG on order will update when I get it installed.
Extension cable for vault camera:
https://a.co/d/6U8Yt5S
Adapter for rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/eyGCxl3
You’ll also need 2.1mm barrel plugs to wire in.
Instructions (very vague, could make video if enough interest)
1. Remove all header trim from the interior of the truck, can leave driver side. (Tesla docs has instruction)
2. Find 12v power supply, I used the radio antenna module, it’s above the driver. I haven’t used radio in 15 years, so I left it unplugged, to avoid pulling too much amperage from that circuit. Note: It’s actually 15ish volts, but all hardware is for commercial applications, so it was rated at 12-24 volt
3. Remove factory mirror, will need to destroy it(unless you’re lucky, but consider it a loss, it was worthless anyway (although it was beautiful in its design)).
4. Open both mirrors and swap out the stem from the factory to the new one. Had to open it and remove the screen and electronics to make this work, take your time, it’s worth it.
5. Remove triangle cover on front window, and the PRDL panel and route the wires up into the main header trim.
6. Worst part: route the wires from the header to the back top of the truck. I went up through the 48 accessory hole, cut the grommet and siliconed the new wires in place, had to remove that whole top sail, and the panel above the door open button. Tesla docs again
7. I double sided the rear view camera to the top see pics, and routed the wires through a tiny hole I cut in the rubber gasket between the glass and the back. Tiny amount of silicon to seal it back up.
8. Mount the vault camera to the rear header trim, double sided sticky tape, I removed all mounting hardware and front glass from the camera(get closer to the window, so the IR lights don’t wash out the video)
9. Tuck it all back together and post pics here.
That 'here' link is not a link? I'm confused. TIA
There are no connections on the mirror for power or video or GPS. I just installed the G900 Pro from wolfbox and all those connections are on the top center. Your mirror is void of any connections. What gives?I have replace my rear view mirror with a rear view mirror screen. It looks completely factory, even used the CT mirror mount to make it work.
The screen supports 2 inputs. One is on top of the truck and wired in through the tiny-gap between the glass and the trim. The other camera is mounted on the rear headliner and points into the vault.(so I can keep an eye on my dog when she is back there)
the current rear view camera I have sucks, and have a much better one on order, the view angle is just two much. It’s about the same as the factory camera, which is good for reversing, but not good for seeing cars behind you when driving.
This setup also uses 12v I found in the ceiling, and powers on when the car powers on.
Here are some better pics of the mirror, it’s not the best, and there is no way to adjust the brightness, so I’m not sure how great that will be at night.
This is the only thing I hate, but doesn’t look horrible.
I went through 3 mirrors before getting to this one. The others had slightly better image, and CarPlay built in. Which was assume, but they just rubberbanded to the existing mirror, which I would have fixed by just 3D printing a new mirror stem and mounting it to the screen. But the power and camera connection came out the top, making it look horrible. I wanted a factory look. Also this mirror supports two camera inputs, the others only supported one
Mirror:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rRAFc0001/rf/5ac54708-2806-4413-8283-b697c2e4b7f4/ use this link to sign up, and you get $20 rewards points.
after you create an account, buy the mirror here.
Vault camera:
https://a.co/d/cGqgwzf
Rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/7lFGqNM current one(not recommended, but works)
https://a.co/d/aUNTucG on order will update when I get it installed.
Extension cable for vault camera:
https://a.co/d/6U8Yt5S
Adapter for rear view camera:
https://a.co/d/eyGCxl3
You’ll also need 2.1mm barrel plugs to wire in.
Instructions (very vague, could make video if enough interest)
1. Remove all header trim from the interior of the truck, can leave driver side. (Tesla docs has instruction)
2. Find 12v power supply, I used the radio antenna module, it’s above the driver. I haven’t used radio in 15 years, so I left it unplugged, to avoid pulling too much amperage from that circuit. Note: It’s actually 15ish volts, but all hardware is for commercial applications, so it was rated at 12-24 volt
3. Remove factory mirror, will need to destroy it(unless you’re lucky, but consider it a loss, it was worthless anyway (although it was beautiful in its design)).
4. Open both mirrors and swap out the stem from the factory to the new one. Had to open it and remove the screen and electronics to make this work, take your time, it’s worth it.
5. Remove triangle cover on front window, and the PRDL panel and route the wires up into the main header trim.
6. Worst part: route the wires from the header to the back top of the truck. I went up through the 48 accessory hole, cut the grommet and siliconed the new wires in place, had to remove that whole top sail, and the panel above the door open button. Tesla docs again
7. I double sided the rear view camera to the top see pics, and routed the wires through a tiny hole I cut in the rubber gasket between the glass and the back. Tiny amount of silicon to seal it back up.
8. Mount the vault camera to the rear header trim, double sided sticky tape, I removed all mounting hardware and front glass from the camera(get closer to the window, so the IR lights don’t wash out the video)
9. Tuck it all back together and post pics here.
That’s the reason I didn’t go with any of the over mirror solutions. The wires run through the mirror mount.
