typically YEARS, if you press the button twice a day, 7 days a week.. I have 3 button remotes that came with my garage door openors that were installed in 2019, that are still on the original batteries
I totally get why he did it. He wanted it to look factory and I greatly appreciate that. It's way more work than a piece of sticky tape for sure, but the end result is better.Yes it will, I think just attaching it with double stick tape to the overhead console as shown in several pictures, is "good enough" and far less work/easier to maintain as well, but good job OP
FYI, I did find a similar remote, 2 for $9.99
https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-C...=se&keywords=villalpand&qid=1776739368&sr=8-1
Just make sure you push the open button on the remote first so you can get out of the garage before she goes up in smoke.Nicely done OP, this is one of those posts where I think I can do it. And then my truck is on fire....
Cool project.....really nice.For me, My Q has not been working for many reasons, WI-FI wasn't strong, I tried extenders, Truck would loose GPS signal in the garage and so it wouldn't Auto-close and MyQ would have server issues, it was a never ending problem. So I always carried a garage door opener with me. Finally, I decided to do something small and discrete to open/close the garage door. And I thought the best place to locate a button would be on the overhead PRND console. I wanted it to look as small as possible. Heck it just needs to be a tiny button. So amazon has this little remote for $15. and of all remotes it has the smallest chip footprint.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1N3P9KQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Here is what it looks like on the inside. This remote has two buttons, I only used one, but if you need a second for the gate or something - it can do that.
Her are the pics of the other side of the PRND console, the side screws are removed. to allow the side plastics to slide in and out, that helped me get an idea of where to place the chip.
Right there is where I wanted to place the button. And here is the pic of the button. This button has a long push button thingy, long enough to pass through the plastic and protrude a few millimeters.
After destroying the OG push button, I have attached a couple of wires. It may not look pretty but it works and nothing is shorting and it is solid.
Obviously you need a hole. It's not that easy to make a super clean hole, but that’s my best. I think the hard part here is fixating the push button. I used a metal rod to press it against the plastic. It was heated and just pushed through the plastic. It's solid and does not move.
Double sided tape to glue the chip and put the rest back together. The position is also important, that’s the only spot it will clear.
This is what it looks like in the car. I did have to remove a couple of tabs that hold the console but it is still sturdy. You can barely see it, fully functional.
The most logical reasoning I’ve heard is that all Homelink modules are 12V/16V and of course the CT needs 48V so it was probably a $$ ROI decision.
I believe there are still 12V taps available within the 48V architecture. How else would it have the built in socket at the trailer hitch for connections to lights on towed trailers? So I don't think 48V is the reason.
Agreed. As is very clear by the members of this forum, some will go to great lengths to customize their CT. A simple module you could connect to would allow some to use a feature they thought should be included, while others could choose to forgo the attempt and simply subscribe to the MyQ route.
I like the OP's solution overall, as it's totally clean if inconspicuous. Once one knows where it is though, it's fine.
For me, My Q has not been working for many reasons, WI-FI wasn't strong, I tried extenders, Truck would loose GPS signal in the garage and so it wouldn't Auto-close and MyQ would have server issues, it was a never ending problem. So I always carried a garage door opener with me. Finally, I decided to do something small and discrete to open/close the garage door. And I thought the best place to locate a button would be on the overhead PRND console. I wanted it to look as small as possible. Heck it just needs to be a tiny button. So amazon has this little remote for $15. and of all remotes it has the smallest chip footprint.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1N3P9KQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
Here is what it looks like on the inside. This remote has two buttons, I only used one, but if you need a second for the gate or something - it can do that.
Her are the pics of the other side of the PRND console, the side screws are removed. to allow the side plastics to slide in and out, that helped me get an idea of where to place the chip.
Right there is where I wanted to place the button. And here is the pic of the button. This button has a long push button thingy, long enough to pass through the plastic and protrude a few millimeters.
After destroying the OG push button, I have attached a couple of wires. It may not look pretty but it works and nothing is shorting and it is solid.
Obviously you need a hole. It's not that easy to make a super clean hole, but that’s my best. I think the hard part here is fixating the push button. I used a metal rod to press it against the plastic. It was heated and just pushed through the plastic. It's solid and does not move.
Double sided tape to glue the chip and put the rest back together. The position is also important, that’s the only spot it will clear.
This is what it looks like in the car. I did have to remove a couple of tabs that hold the console but it is still sturdy. You can barely see it, fully functional.
That’s actually a great idea. That cover is also easy to get out to clean the camera housing.Great idea and I admire the low-cost solution. Wondering if you could’ve integrated it with your mirror-delete cap, in terms of size, to make the battery accessible and avoid drilling the cover?
