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mitch9

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It is gonna be a pain to change the battery! I wonder how long it’ll last
typically YEARS, if you press the button twice a day, 7 days a week.. I have 3 button remotes that came with my garage door openors that were installed in 2019, that are still on the original batteries :)
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That Beast Mode

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Yes it will, I think just attaching it with double stick tape to the overhead console as shown in several pictures, is "good enough" and far less work/easier to maintain as well, but good job OP

FYI, I did find a similar remote, 2 for $9.99 :)

https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-C...=se&keywords=villalpand&qid=1776739368&sr=8-1
I totally get why he did it. He wanted it to look factory and I greatly appreciate that. It's way more work than a piece of sticky tape for sure, but the end result is better.
 

Zane Edwards

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For me, My Q has not been working for many reasons, WI-FI wasn't strong, I tried extenders, Truck would loose GPS signal in the garage and so it wouldn't Auto-close and MyQ would have server issues, it was a never ending problem. So I always carried a garage door opener with me. Finally, I decided to do something small and discrete to open/close the garage door. And I thought the best place to locate a button would be on the overhead PRND console. I wanted it to look as small as possible. Heck it just needs to be a tiny button. So amazon has this little remote for $15. and of all remotes it has the smallest chip footprint.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1N3P9KQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
1776706369696-t4.webp


Here is what it looks like on the inside. This remote has two buttons, I only used one, but if you need a second for the gate or something - it can do that.

tempImagefuc4ta.webp
tempImage7vYTe9.webp


Her are the pics of the other side of the PRND console, the side screws are removed. to allow the side plastics to slide in and out, that helped me get an idea of where to place the chip.

tempImagewT5Dzk.webp


Right there is where I wanted to place the button. And here is the pic of the button. This button has a long push button thingy, long enough to pass through the plastic and protrude a few millimeters.

tempImageWdOaAz.webp
tempImageeKNRu0.webp


After destroying the OG push button, I have attached a couple of wires. It may not look pretty but it works and nothing is shorting and it is solid.

tempImagePDKTt5.webp
tempImageL8odjj.webp
tempImagezJFnt9.webp


Obviously you need a hole. It's not that easy to make a super clean hole, but that’s my best. I think the hard part here is fixating the push button. I used a metal rod to press it against the plastic. It was heated and just pushed through the plastic. It's solid and does not move.
tempImageYauUDz.webp

tempImage5hZ0Ex.webp
tempImageKwAhk7.webp
tempImagehZs0Vg.webp


Double sided tape to glue the chip and put the rest back together. The position is also important, that’s the only spot it will clear.

tempImageIo3s6w.webp
tempImagefyhGD8.webp


This is what it looks like in the car. I did have to remove a couple of tabs that hold the console but it is still sturdy. You can barely see it, fully functional.

117853-a5195c6a0e854b9729735a29d24dffc1 (1).webp
Cool project.....really nice.
 


ÆCIII

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Very nice, but I wish we weren't having to go these extents.

You know the irony is, that the Cybertruck was scaled for limited to wide scale production around November 2023, but was of course designed a lot earlier. Yet the Model 3 Highland from 2024 on got plenty of wiring harness changes yet they kept the connection for the Homelink so that one could retrofit a homelink module without too much difficulty. This is awesome because many have warned about Thin-Q app network limitations from the start. Even the newest Model Y variants still have that connection from what I've seen.

So why not in the Cybertruck??? Come on Tesla!

If you want to sell the Cybertruck or any model, you need to stop carelessly allowing significant feature regressions which result in very little savings for COGS in the long term yet costing more in reduced sales.

Three 'regressions' I've noticed (across different models) include but are not limited to the following:

- Excluding Homelink retrofit connector in the Cybertruck (at least allow connection of a separately purchased Homelink module)​
- Excluding Turn Signal Stalks (glad you brought them back in the Model 3 Highland, because attempting to find a button on a turning steering wheel, will always be an annoying attention degrading distraction which ironically takes attention from the road. Leave them out of the Cybercab of course, but any car that's optionally human driveable, should allow optimal human control). Or for those emotionally bent on the optics of no turn signal stalks, find a way to make them easily removable with programmable buttons on the steering wheel itself.​
- Exclusion of subwoofer enclosure in Model 3 Highland, to instead allow the whole trunk to resonate bass. Problem is, this is not good at normal or lower power/volumes so the larger-than-life soft bass quality which compliments the immersion features - is now gone. The difference is noticeable once people settle into their cars especially if they've owned an earlier Model 3 or another Tesla model. This make an owner feel like their car's sound is 'cheapened' regardless of how many immersion speakers are touted for the car. We actually need a connector to retrofit a pre-Highland subwoofer Enclosure with an optimally tuned port, in the Highland Model 3 trims just like in the previous Model 3s. Some people with reduced hearing ability may not be able to distinguish this, but it's definitely a difference and many people have noticed it.​
Tesla, please resist the temptation to sour the milk for very little benefit because it alienates current owners wanting to upgrade, as well as potential new customers. If something is 'Not Broke' then please don't 'Fix It'! Please don't allow the amazing performance of FSD be some kind of excuse to cheapen other features in the car.

Tesla vehicles are still amazingly ahead of others overall, but it's not wise to hold back features a vehicle once had, or excluding features in a manner that screams market manipulation. Legacy auto is extremely guilty of that, but Tesla should continue distinguishing their brand from legacy by avoiding such behavior.

- ÆCIII
 
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turns2stone

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Very nice, but I wish we weren't having to go these extents.

You know the irony is, that the Cybertruck was scaled for limited to wide scale production around November 2023, but was of course designed a lot earlier. Yet the Model 3 Highland from 2024 on got plenty of wiring harness changes yet they kept the connection for the Homelink so that one could retrofit a homelink module without too much difficulty. This is awesome because many have warned about Thin-Q app network limitations from the start. Even the newest Model Y variants still have that connection from what I've seen.

So why not in the Cybertruck??? Come on Tesla!

If you want to sell the Cybertruck or any model, you need to stop carelessly allowing significant feature regressions which result in very little savings for COGS in the long term yet costing more in reduced sales.

Three 'regressions' I've noticed (across different models) include but are not limited to the following:

- Excluding Homelink retrofit connector in the Cybertruck (at least allow connection of a separately purchased Homelink module)​
- Excluding Turn Signal Stalks (glad you brought them back in the Model 3 Highland, because attempting to find a button on a turning steering wheel, will always be an annoying attention degrading distraction which ironically takes attention from the road. Leave them out of the Cybercab of course, but any car that's optionally human drivable, should allow optimal human control). Or for those emotionally bent on the optics of no turn signal stalks, find a way to make them easily removable with programmable buttons on the steering wheel itself.​
- Exclusion of subwoofer enclosure in Model 3 Highland, to instead allow the whole trunk to resonate bass. Problem is, this is not good at normal or lower power/volumes so the larger-than-life soft bass quality which compliments the immersion features - is now gone. The difference is noticeable once people settle into their cars especially if they've owned an earlier Model 3 or another Tesla model. This make an owner feel like their car's sound is 'cheapened' regardless of how many immersion speakers are touted for the car. We actually need a connector to retrofit a pre-Highland subwoofer Enclosure with an optimally tuned port, in the Highland Model 3 trims just like in the previous Model 3s. Some people with reduced hearing ability may not be able to distinguish this, but it's definitely a difference and many people have noticed it.​
Tesla, please resist the temptation to sour the milk for very little benefit because it alienates current owners wanting to upgrade, as well as potential new customers. Please don't allow the amazing performance of FSD be some kind of excuse to cheapen other features in the car.

Tesla vehicles are still amazingly ahead of others overall, but it's not wise to hold back features a vehicle once had, or excluding features in a manner that screams market manipulation. Legacy auto is extremely guilty of that, but Tesla should continue distinguishing their brand from legacy by avoiding such behavior.

- ÆCIII
The most logical reasoning I’ve heard is that all Homelink modules are 12V/16V and of course the CT needs 48V so it was probably a $$ ROI decision.
 

CyberGus

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I did the same thing in my DeLorean. Since there are blanks in the dash, I wired the remote's button into a door-window switch. You'd never know it was there.

I also bypassed the 9V battery and wired it straight into the car's 12V. Extended the range to about a half-mile lol
 

ÆCIII

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The most logical reasoning I’ve heard is that all Homelink modules are 12V/16V and of course the CT needs 48V so it was probably a $$ ROI decision.
I believe there are still 12V taps available within the 48V architecture. How else would it have the built in socket at the trailer hitch for connections to lights on towed trailers? So I don't think 48V is the reason.

The $$ ROI reason Is Valid - for not (including) the Homelink module and making one buy it as an extra accessory.

The existing connection in a wiring harness with software code to retrofit a Homelink module seems like a negligible 'investment' to cut, especially when manufacturing at scale. I could be missing something but seems all they had to do is leave the connection in the wiring and tap it's power just like the trailer lighting support socket.

Their power inverters or Power Conversion System for the vault outlets are certainly more complex than reduced DC voltage for a Homelink module but they still included that. I would even say that for many Cybertruck owners, the Homelink garage door opener would be used a lot more often than the vault electrical outlets.

- ÆCIII
 

Jabman

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I believe there are still 12V taps available within the 48V architecture. How else would it have the built in socket at the trailer hitch for connections to lights on towed trailers? So I don't think 48V is the reason.

The $$ ROI reason Is Valid - for not (including) the Homelink module and making one buy it as an extra accessory.

The existing connection in a wiring harness with software code to retrofit a Homelink module seems like a negligible 'investment' to cut, especially when manufacturing at scale. I could be missing something but seems all they had to do is leave the connection in the wiring and tap it's power just like the trailer lighting support socket.

Their power inverters or Power Conversion System for the vault outlets are certainly more complex than reduced DC voltage for a Homelink module but they still included that. I would even say that for many Cybertruck owners, the Homelink garage door opener would be used a lot more often than the vault electrical outlets.

- ÆCIII
Agreed. As is very clear by the members of this forum, some will go to great lengths to customize their CT. A simple module you could connect to would allow some to use a feature they thought should be included, while others could choose to forgo the attempt and simply subscribe to the MyQ route.
As others have mentioned, MyQ is useable without a subscription (although it requires extra steps by going into the phone app to open/close and check status, and does not allow for auto-close or auto-open based on proximity).
I personally prefer the option of using MyQ to monitor status and use the other functions, but do not wish to subscribe to some functionality that should have come with the vehicle, like a built in push button for open/close.
I would be one of those that chose to integrate an optional home link module to allow for functionality that acted like OP’s implementation, looking OEM, and not duck tape to the roof (no offense intended, because I personally still use a clicker on the visor)
 


ÆCIII

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Agreed. As is very clear by the members of this forum, some will go to great lengths to customize their CT. A simple module you could connect to would allow some to use a feature they thought should be included, while others could choose to forgo the attempt and simply subscribe to the MyQ route.
As others have mentioned, MyQ is useable without a subscription (although it requires extra steps by going into the phone app to open/close and check status, and does not allow for auto-close or auto-open based on proximity).
I personally prefer the option of using MyQ to monitor status and use the other functions, but do not wish to subscribe to some functionality that should have come with the vehicle, like a built in push button for open/close.
I would be one of those that chose to integrate an optional home link module to allow for functionality that acted like OP’s implementation, looking OEM, and not duck tape to the roof (no offense intended, because I personally still use a clicker on the visor)
I like the OP's solution overall, as it's totally clean if inconspicuous. Once one knows where it is though, it's fine.

For my approach I would probably end up designing and 3D printing an adjacent housing for a clicker or it's PCB assembly and then adhere that housing right next to the PRND console such that its shape would just appear to blend in. That way I'd not be drilling into PRND console. I still would prefer Tesla's integration of Homelink into it's U/I as my first choice.

- ÆCIII
 

webspeedracer

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Great idea and I admire the low-cost solution. Wondering if you could’ve integrated it with your mirror-delete cap, in terms of size, to make the battery accessible and avoid drilling the cover?
Tesla Cybertruck A Discrete Permanent Garage Door Remote install DIY 1776957180313-yy



For me, My Q has not been working for many reasons, WI-FI wasn't strong, I tried extenders, Truck would loose GPS signal in the garage and so it wouldn't Auto-close and MyQ would have server issues, it was a never ending problem. So I always carried a garage door opener with me. Finally, I decided to do something small and discrete to open/close the garage door. And I thought the best place to locate a button would be on the overhead PRND console. I wanted it to look as small as possible. Heck it just needs to be a tiny button. So amazon has this little remote for $15. and of all remotes it has the smallest chip footprint.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1N3P9KQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
1776706369696-t4.webp


Here is what it looks like on the inside. This remote has two buttons, I only used one, but if you need a second for the gate or something - it can do that.

tempImagefuc4ta.webp
tempImage7vYTe9.webp


Her are the pics of the other side of the PRND console, the side screws are removed. to allow the side plastics to slide in and out, that helped me get an idea of where to place the chip.

tempImagewT5Dzk.webp


Right there is where I wanted to place the button. And here is the pic of the button. This button has a long push button thingy, long enough to pass through the plastic and protrude a few millimeters.

tempImageWdOaAz.webp
tempImageeKNRu0.webp


After destroying the OG push button, I have attached a couple of wires. It may not look pretty but it works and nothing is shorting and it is solid.

tempImagePDKTt5.webp
tempImageL8odjj.webp
tempImagezJFnt9.webp


Obviously you need a hole. It's not that easy to make a super clean hole, but that’s my best. I think the hard part here is fixating the push button. I used a metal rod to press it against the plastic. It was heated and just pushed through the plastic. It's solid and does not move.
tempImageYauUDz.webp

tempImage5hZ0Ex.webp
tempImageKwAhk7.webp
tempImagehZs0Vg.webp


Double sided tape to glue the chip and put the rest back together. The position is also important, that’s the only spot it will clear.

tempImageIo3s6w.webp
tempImagefyhGD8.webp


This is what it looks like in the car. I did have to remove a couple of tabs that hold the console but it is still sturdy. You can barely see it, fully functional.

117853-a5195c6a0e854b9729735a29d24dffc1 (1).webp
 

jf64k

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Nice work OP.

I used Velcro to attach my remote to the front/left of the center console. Reach down with my right hand to activate. You can't see it from any of the sitting positions.
 
OP
OP
igoreka

igoreka

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Great idea and I admire the low-cost solution. Wondering if you could’ve integrated it with your mirror-delete cap, in terms of size, to make the battery accessible and avoid drilling the cover?
1776957180313-yy.webp
That’s actually a great idea. That cover is also easy to get out to clean the camera housing.
 
 








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