Connecting starlink mini to roof power?

[Zantosh76]

Does anyone know how to do this?

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[tmeyer3]

According to https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=5 : "Input Rating 12-48V 60W". Cybertruck is 48v dc up to 400W.
So you just wire it directly in and you're done.
You may need to sacrifice the dc power cable, however.

 

[mongo]

According to https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=5 : "Input Rating 12-48V 60W". Cybertruck is 48v dc up to 400W.
So you just wire it directly in and you're done.
You may need to sacrifice the dc power cable, however.

Cybertruck is up to 58V...
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Publ...UID-EC88B024-50C5-4B34-B716-FDED8CF3FBE0.html

 

[Woodrick]

Cybertruck is up to 58V...
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Publ...UID-EC88B024-50C5-4B34-B716-FDED8CF3FBE0.html

i.e. you've got to have a down converter to a lower voltage.

 

[tmeyer3]

Cybertruck is up to 58V...
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Publ...UID-EC88B024-50C5-4B34-B716-FDED8CF3FBE0.html

Oh, I didn't realize it could fluctuate that much. Good to know.

i.e. you've got to have a down converter to a lower voltage.

A step down will also stabilize the voltage. This is a good option that many here are using with good results: https://amzn.to/4dLZJKW

There's extra power there so you could use the same step down for other devices too in the future.

Good luck with your project!

 

[Zantosh76]

Does anyone know how to do this?

Ok so I tried mounting it on the roof and I didn't like the look of it. It just looks like you want someone to steal it or brake into your truck. Instead, I found this as a better option. I'll post the photo subsequently, but I placed it on that vast dashboard.

 

[Zantosh76]

Here you go. I put the wires nicely on the driver's side and plugged it into the back seat power outlet.

 

[cybertruckwaldo]

Here you go. I put the wires nicely on the driver's side and plugged it into the back seat power outlet.

is the truck able to connect to starlink?

 

[btcrealm]

is the truck able to connect to starlink?

Yes, once connected it will connect while in park. If you go into the wifi settings for it in the cybertruck you can set it to connect while driving. This does work.

 

[Zantosh76]

is the truck able to connect to starlink?

Yes it works great.

 

[4Dolio]

That DC-DC Step down seems sort of bulky, so I'm exploring a different method of just using a resistor in series: Assuming the StarLink Mini maximum power draw is 60 watts then at 48 volts that would be 1.25 amps or at the minimum of 12v that would be 5 amps.

Asked Grok: "If I have a 58vdc power supply and want to supply a device with a maximum of 48vdc at 1.5 amps what value of resistor can I add in series to do so?"

Response:

To calculate the resistor value needed to drop the voltage from 58V to 48V, we can use Ohm's Law. Here's the step-by-step process:

1. Determine the voltage drop across the resistor:
   Voltage drop=58V−48V=10V
   
   
2. Use Ohm's Law to find the resistance: Ohm's Law states
   V=IR, where V is the voltage drop across the resistor, I is the current through the resistor, and R is the resistance.
   Here, V=10V and I=2.5A.
   R = V/I = 10V/1.5A = 6.67Ω
   So, you would need a 6.67-ohm resistor in series with your device to ensure that the voltage across the device does not exceed 48V when using a 58V power supply.
   Note:
   • Power Dissipation: The resistor will dissipate power, which you can calculate with
     P = I/V or P = I^2 R
     : P = 1.5A × 10V = 15W
     or
     P = (1.5A)2 × 6.67Ω ≈ 15W
   • Resistor Selection: You would need a resistor that can handle at least 15 watts of power. Standard resistors might not be available at this exact resistance and power rating, so you might need to use a combination of resistors or find one specifically for this application.
   • Precision and Safety: Due to the high power involved, make sure the resistor is rated for this wattage to avoid overheating or failure. Also, consider using a resistor with a higher power rating for safety margin.
3. 
   This calculation assumes ideal conditions without considering potential changes in current due to the resistor's addition or any internal resistance in the circuit. If your device's current draw might vary or if there are other factors at play, consider these in your design.

For a little more headroom, the resistance could be larger, resulting in a lower voltage, which the starlink would be fine with. But also resulting in a higher wattage at the resistor. So up to 10 Ohms and 25 watts should be good for about 42vdc.

Some other prompts I used were: "

If I have a 44vdc to 58vdc supply and want to power a 60 watt device that can use 12vdc up to 48vdc what size resistor can I put in series?" which suggested an 8 ohm 12.5 watt resistor.

Then I further asked "If I use a 10 ohm resistor, what would the output voltage range be?" and got the reply that the resulting voltage would range from 31.5vdc to 44vdc, which seems good.

I then asked "What would the output voltage be if the device only drew 30 watts?" and got The realistic output voltage range would be from around 37.75V to 51.75V, considering that the device would adjust its current draw based on the voltage available to maintain 30W power consumption. This range is within the device's acceptable limits (12V to 48V), but it's important to ensure that the device can operate correctly across this voltage range without issues. Which seems contradictory. I'm a little worried that if the dish goes into a low power idle mode that the current will drop and so the voltage could plausibly be higher than the 48vdc rating.

Fun thought exercise, just wondering if there is a safe and easier way to avoid a big bulky DC-DC regulator?

I will probably just plug in the supplied wall adapter to the bed 120vac outlet, but then I need to snake the cable around the tonneau cover, which is fine, I already am doing that for some other roof devices, but other folks might not have such easy cable routes.

Also, I wish there was a permanent inverter setting to just keep it always running, instead of needing to turn it back on every 12 hours.

 

[mongo]

That DC-DC Step down seems sort of bulky, so I'm exploring a different method of just using a resistor in series: Assuming the StarLink Mini maximum power draw is 60 watts then at 48 volts that would be 1.25 amps or at the minimum of 12v that would be 5 amps.

Asked Grok: "If I have a 58vdc power supply and want to supply a device with a maximum of 48vdc at 1.5 amps what value of resistor can I add in series to do so?"

Response:


For a little more headroom, the resistance could be larger, resulting in a lower voltage, which the starlink would be fine with. But also resulting in a higher wattage at the resistor. So up to 10 Ohms and 25 watts should be good for about 42vdc.

Some other prompts I used were: "

If I have a 44vdc to 58vdc supply and want to power a 60 watt device that can use 12vdc up to 48vdc what size resistor can I put in series?" which suggested an 8 ohm 12.5 watt resistor.

Then I further asked "If I use a 10 ohm resistor, what would the output voltage range be?" and got the reply that the resulting voltage would range from 31.5vdc to 44vdc, which seems good.

I then asked "What would the output voltage be if the device only drew 30 watts?" and got The realistic output voltage range would be from around 37.75V to 51.75V, considering that the device would adjust its current draw based on the voltage available to maintain 30W power consumption. This range is within the device's acceptable limits (12V to 48V), but it's important to ensure that the device can operate correctly across this voltage range without issues. Which seems contradictory. I'm a little worried that if the dish goes into a low power idle mode that the current will drop and so the voltage could plausibly be higher than the 48vdc rating.

Fun thought exercise, just wondering if there is a safe and easier way to avoid a big bulky DC-DC regulator?

I will probably just plug in the supplied wall adapter to the bed 120vac outlet, but then I need to snake the cable around the tonneau cover, which is fine, I already am doing that for some other roof devices, but other folks might not have such easy cable routes.

Also, I wish there was a permanent inverter setting to just keep it always running, instead of needing to turn it back on every 12 hours.

Yeah, you could go with an adjustable linear regulator set to 48V.
60W at 30V is 2 Amps
60W at 48V is 1.25 Amps
1.25A with 58V to 48V drop is 12.5W
So two LM317HV in parallel on a heat sink should work. 2.25V drop (part specific) across regulator at 1A (each) is only 2.25W.
Might even get away with only one and minimal thermal support for normal voltage ranges (and the dish pulls the most power when it is cold out).


https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm317hv.pdf

 

[Zantosh76]

I looked into this. Just Velcro it to your massive dash, it works great for me and no one sees it, it's amazing how invisible it is to people despite being so big on the dash.

 

[Woodrick]

That DC-DC Step down seems sort of bulky, so I'm exploring a different method of just using a resistor in series: Assuming the StarLink Mini maximum power draw is 60 watts then at 48 volts that would be 1.25 amps or at the minimum of 12v that would be 5 amps.

Asked Grok: "If I have a 58vdc power supply and want to supply a device with a maximum of 48vdc at 1.5 amps what value of resistor can I add in series to do so?"

No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, NO!

A dropping resistor is somewhere between stupid and around $500.

The Starlink mini platform has variable current draws, that basically negates the ability to use a drop-down resistor. FYI, you have to also heatsink and cool the resistor. It's will need to be able to dissipate 60W minimum.

Why not just get the USB-C cable? https://shop.starlink.com/products/us-consumer-car-adapter-mini

 

[4Dolio]

No, ...

Starlink mini platform has variable current draws, that basically negates the ability to use a drop-down resistor.

Your right, the variable load dawned on me half way through, but I was committed to seeing if grok could give me reasonably answers for the unreasonable question.

Appreciate the firm warning, I was going to affix the resistors to the headlamps... JK

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