You should provide feedback on the Overhead Console Assembly procedure with this fix. Make them put in the Service Manual!
I have had this issue since I bought the truck almost a year ago. I have brought it to the service center twice for a fix. The first time they simply stuck double sided tape on it, which did not work at all, and it literally fell back down as soon as I picked my truck up from them. I have just been dealing with it hanging down until I got fed up and recently brought it back in again. This time, they updated my service ticket to bring it back in a third time after they ordered a new windshield replacement since that assembly is permanently attached to the windshield and that was all they could come up with to fix it. Well, both me and the service advisor thought that was stupid as hell to fix a 1-cent plastic clip's failure to hold, but they didn't know what else to do. So, I put some thought into it, especially since my windshield is also tinted with high-quality cermic tint, and Tesla does not reimburse for that.
And I figured it out. I simply heated the female receptical where the clip connects with a heat gun, squeezed it with some pliers, and now the connection is solid as a rock. I notified the service team to cancel the new windshield. See below pics.
The problem:
The service center's 1st attempted "OEM" double sided tape fix:
What the white plastic male clips look like with console removed:
What the overhead female recptacles looked like on the overhead console:
Heating the bottom receptacle with heatgun:
Squeeze with pliers (I used channel-locks) and allowed to cool:
New, tighter, receptacle. I left the top one alone since that was not causing the problem:
It is now snapped back into place and solid as a rock.
Windshield repacement diverted.
EDIT: For anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
What a great tip, I will definitely use it when my time comes.Also, for anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
I just added this to the end of the original post as well.
Because the windshield comes with the bracket installed doesn't mean there's not a procedure for replacement. I'll point you to the PDF I posted earlier.That procedure shows the bracket is integral to the windshield and has no removal/ install steps for it. (Note: some windshield photos are pre-production and from other models)
It does for the wire harness which clips on though.
Great thinking - which reminds me about welding with plastic - my cousin has done it with several things using a plastic wire tie as needed to build back up or solder pieces together. works well in most cases...I have had this issue since I bought the truck almost a year ago. I have brought it to the service center twice for a fix. The first time they simply stuck double sided tape on it, which did not work at all, and it literally fell back down as soon as I picked my truck up from them. I have just been dealing with it hanging down until I got fed up and recently brought it back in again. This time, they updated my service ticket to bring it back in a third time after they ordered a new windshield replacement since that assembly is permanently attached to the windshield and that was all they could come up with to fix it. Well, both me and the service advisor thought that was stupid as hell to fix a 1-cent plastic clip's failure to hold, but they didn't know what else to do. So, I put some thought into it, especially since my windshield is also tinted with high-quality cermic tint, and Tesla does not reimburse for that.
And I figured it out. I simply heated the female receptical where the clip connects with a heat gun, squeezed it with some pliers, and now the connection is solid as a rock. I notified the service team to cancel the new windshield. See below pics.
The problem:
The service center's 1st attempted "OEM" double sided tape fix
What the white plastic male clips look like with console removed:
What the overhead female recptacles looked like on the overhead console:
Heating the bottom receptacle with heatgun:
Squeeze with pliers (I used channel-locks) and allowed to cool:
New, tighter, receptacle. I left the top one alone since that was not causing the problem:
It is now snapped back into place and solid as a rock.
Windshield repacement diverted.
EDIT: For anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
Thanks for this. Since the second time they fixed mine it has held, but I will try to remember this if it happens again over the years.I have had this issue since I bought the truck almost a year ago. I have brought it to the service center twice for a fix. The first time they simply stuck double sided tape on it, which did not work at all, and it literally fell back down as soon as I picked my truck up from them. I have just been dealing with it hanging down until I got fed up and recently brought it back in again. This time, they updated my service ticket to bring it back in a third time after they ordered a new windshield replacement since that assembly is permanently attached to the windshield and that was all they could come up with to fix it. Well, both me and the service advisor thought that was stupid as hell to fix a 1-cent plastic clip's failure to hold, but they didn't know what else to do. So, I put some thought into it, especially since my windshield is also tinted with high-quality cermic tint, and Tesla does not reimburse for that.
And I figured it out. I simply heated the female receptical where the clip connects with a heat gun, squeezed it with some pliers, and now the connection is solid as a rock. I notified the service team to cancel the new windshield. See below pics.
The problem:
The service center's 1st attempted "OEM" double sided tape fix
What the white plastic male clips look like with console removed:
What the overhead female recptacles looked like on the overhead console:
Heating the bottom receptacle with heatgun:
Squeeze with pliers (I used channel-locks) and allowed to cool:
New, tighter, receptacle. I left the top one alone since that was not causing the problem:
It is now snapped back into place and solid as a rock.
Windshield repacement diverted.
EDIT: For anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
Before:Can you post pics before/after of the bumper repair? I rolled into a concrete post and my bumper is slightly dimpled.
Heat gun might help!
TIA
Yeah, that also crossed my mind as a potential fix. I thought of several ways to do it actually, but I think the heat gun method is the best way to do it that I could come up with. The female receptacle plastic is now permanently reshaped to always grab the male white clip tightly. Shims may come off at some point, but I am glad it is working for you!
There's always more than one way to skin a cat, as they say 
I’m actually annoyed with putting up with it for 6 monthsYeah, that also crossed my mind as a potential fix. I thought of several ways to do it actually, but I think the heat gun method is the best way to do it that I could come up with. The female receptacle plastic is now permanently reshaped to always grab the male white clip tightly. Shims may come off at some point, but I am glad it is working for you!
