My home power backup without Powershare solution/ neutral-ground bonding/ transfer switch options/cold temps

[MetroWestMA]

I have used my cybertruck to power 4 houses on seperate occasions, two with standard generator interlock and two with the suicide plug (which is properly wired and grounded) and never once hod the 240 breaker trip.

I have had the 120V inside the car breaker trip a few times just when a 140W PD USB Power brick plugged in to it so it's kind of strange...

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[Eka]

Yeah me either, but the cable runs and everything took him, a journey man and a laborer all day. I had to upgrade my ground and something else with my box. My house was built in 1953. Since I had the parts it was almost all labor.

My dad's house is of a similar age. I'm looking at major electrical changes needed. The fuse box in the garage is a very early Square D QO box. Notice what is not at the top of the fuse box. Disconnect is out at the electric meter. The L1 and L2 come in the bottom of the fuse box along with the neutral. Most of the house wiring is two prong without ground. Some new circuits have been put in with grounds. By local code if the wires after the meter are touched, then they must be brought up to code. Cloth insulation is no longer allowed. That means they have to be replaced, and the fuse box must also be replaced because it doesn't have a mains breaker. If the fuse box is touched, then all the house wiring must be brought up to code. Oh, there also is a sub panel in the kitchen. It also doesn't have a mains breaker. At least all the circuits on it are up to code.

If you read the label it says "Suitable for use as service equipment when not more than six main dis-connecting means are provided." That was the old NEC standard. Last I knew it's now six actions. Opening the fuse box door is an action. If you turn off all the breakers in the top 1/3 of the box, all power to the house is turned off. Two of the breakers in the top third control power to the right lower 2/3, and left lower 2/3 respectively. Another controls power to the air-conditioner. Another controls power the sub panel in the kitchen. There is another for the EVSE. Opening the door is another action. Am I under the 6 actions limit to turn all power off that is now required? If it wasn't for the cloth covered cables.

I'm planning on installing a solar system this summer. So I'm now doing lots of research. I haven't decided on a manual transfer switch, and plug the CT in or an automatic transfer switch and moderate battery system that can be extended with the CT.

I chose this photo because you can see and read the important part of the label. (I did blow the cobwebs and dust out after taking the photos.)

 

[CyberGus]

I'm looking at major electrical changes needed.

My electrical service was 80's vintage, with no main breaker, utility line attached directly to house instead of a riser pole, etc. My Powershare installer took one look and said "lol no".

I ended up having it all replaced, all the way back to the pole. It's now all brand-new and up to code, but it was a $10k job (including the UWC installation). The subpanel inside remained.

Before:

After:

I've powered the house multiple times with PowerShare (including A/C).

And yes, they used a LabelMaker instead of a Sharpie lol.

 

[no%X#XMVk65v#cq]

My attempt to install a 50a generator inlet plug and use my Cybertruck as power source for my house (2002) unfortunately wasn't successful. As soon as I activate outlets from Cybertruck, its 240v outlet trips. Near zero loads (<20A) from my house.

Generator inlet is wired correctly: neutral to ground show continuity, as desired. If powered from grid, hot 1 to neutral or ground is 120v. Same with hot 2. Hot 1 to hot 2 is 240v.

However, my detached garage's electrical service panel has utility drop/service entrance from grid, as well as sole meter on my property and is labeled "main service disconnect." I think the issue is neutral and ground are not bonded. This service panel sends power to my house, about 20 feet away.

House aka subpanel has neutral and ground bonded: green bonding screw is clearly visible. This doesn't make sense from NEC 250.24 perspective (says neutral and ground must be bonded at first point of disconnect) and is likely why the Cybertruck 240v outlet trips immediately after enabling the outlet.

At this point I am out of ideas and likely will call electrician...

Curious if you ever solved this?

 

[pricedm]

Curious if you ever solved this?

Not yet. I am going to hire an electrician to make the neutral/ ground bond at point of first disconnect, to comply with 2020 NEC. Once this is done, I will re-connect the generator outlet...or just go all-in with PowerShare hardware. Thanks for checking on me.

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