Woodrick

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Folks. Hypermiling is a concept that has been around for years and is use in ICE to greatly enhance the range. And it works best for ICE, because everything is lossy for them. Even coasting uses power, unless you turn the engine off (which some hypermilers do).

For a Tesla (not necessarily all EVs) regen represents about 30% of the energy that you use for driving. So unlike an ICE, where slowing down uses gas, A Tesla sticks some fuel back into the tank.

But either driving with or behind a hypermiler is frustrating. Their speeds are inconsistent and they are too slow most of the time.

In an EV, there are two things that will majorly impact your range. First one is using regen. The second is speed.

If you don't want to use regen, all you have to do is modulate the pedal correctly. As the OP said, just watch the bar and you can set the amount of power used or regenerated. Really easy and no need to turn regen off.

And honestly, not much need to worry about speed. How many times do you drive over 200 miles in a day? So you end up with energy left over when you get home.
On the Interstate, the fastest way to travel is go fast, arrive with nearly empty battery and only charge to around 50%.
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Outdoors

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Read as much as I could:

Feather the accelerator if you feel like it on a downhill, but if you used brakes in the end ya kind of lost at the exercise.

Neutral game. Has its inherent concerns. Not sure I feel like diving in that pool.

AP/FSD or just driving normal might be simplist.

Drive one's drive, as long as you don't hurt me or others. Have fun.
 

moeali

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Because Coasting is 100% efficient and regen is not. If you coast down a 10 mile downhill grade vs regen Your wh/m average will be less by coasting. You need regen to control speed but if you are going. 55mph with regen and can safety go 65mph by lightly pressing the Accelerator (until the green bar goes away but before the power is engaged) you will get better range by going faster. .
Makes sense. Thank you...
 

countryboy

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I find the comporise between hypermiling and just driving that works for me is: take advantage of these coasting principles, but don't take it out of TACC/AP/FSD. When going down a steep grade, I will slowly increment the set speed up with the scroll wheel, at roughly the same rate as if I was trying to coast my foot, but a little less smooth and limiting to about 10mph over. On the way up the next hill, I do the reverse, slowly lowering set speed 1mph per click, at a rate roughly the same as coasting up the first part of the hill with my foot, until I'm back at desired speed. I prefer not to vary speed by more than ~10mph or disengage AP, but still get most of the efficiency. I'm eager to see how this plays out in my CT... if I could get a VIN already!!! =)
 

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Sorry but it is not. Using regen captures energy and stores it in the battery. It also slows you down which means you are wasting less energy in drag.

Regen is the correct answer. Anybody thinking momentum or speed is lossless is incorrect. Google Drag vs Speed and you will see the difference.
As I thought. Like I said before, going and coming from Les Menuires in the Alps, up cost - 30% of batteries, the down part got me +4%.
 


Outdoors

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As I thought. Like I said before, going and coming from Les Menuires in the Alps, up cost - 30% of batteries, the down part got me +4%.
That's an interesting number of regen recovery%. I do mountains all the time. Seems low on the recovery.
 

NoMoGas

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This "coasting" technique is interesting. What you are claiming is that by cancelling regen on a down slope, you are covering more miles per wH of energy than by converting kinetic energy to electrical energy and reusing the electrical energy. It means that on the down slope, the speed of the vehicle increases avoiding the energy conversion loss that occurs with regen. The only problem I see is the amount of attention required of the driver to minimize the regen. It won't work using any type a ADAS, e.g., Autopilot or FSD.
I would imagine under certain circumstances this is true, but the grade is probably very important. If it's a small grade then this is probably accurate if you're dealing with the grapevine, I would doubt it. As a general rule of thumb in my experience if you put on the energy app and simply adjust your speed a few miles per hour in either direction you should be able to get exactly what it advertises without much work.
 

Woodrick

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It was 30 km steep uphill.
I do a 30 mi steep incline up a mountain, for what I lose on the way up, I gain it all back (except for the straight-line length of the road).

It's fun to watch the mileage on the front screen drop at an excessive rate, but then INCREASE while using regen down the hill.

And it's impossible to "coast" down a 5000ft mountain with curvy roads.
 

Ward L

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That speed helps carry you up the next hill... Truckers been doing that forever.

Also - in the 70's my dad used to say "drive like you have a egg between your foot and the peddle, and don't break the egg..." Then we used some math to exactly compute the mileage gained on a tank of gas - fun memory. :)
As far as your 70’s memory. I too remember and understod how hard acceleration hurt gas mileage. As ICEs became more efficient with fuel injection, I began to think for the cars they make today, hard acceleration is not as bad as the days with a carb. I think today, the biggest killer of gas mileage are the #1 brakes and #2 speed. Acceleration is maybe 3rd. Of course, if you are driving like you have no brakes, you are going pretty slow and easy! My two cents...
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