Munro: Tesla Cybertruck Technical Specs DEEP DIVE with 5 Tesla Executives

[Beyond]

Yesssss that's a big one. I don't think I've EVER seen a vehicle with full cabin active noise cancelling. In surprised this is only just now coming out, I would have advertised it.

Interesting. I wonder if a lesser version of this technology could be rolled out to some earlier vehicles via a software update? Not that my Model Y is particularly noisy, but less noise is better.

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[scottf200]

Yesssss that's a big one. I don't think I've EVER seen a vehicle with full cabin active noise cancelling. In surprised this is only just now coming out, I would have advertised it.

Interesting. I wonder if a lesser version of this technology could be rolled out to some earlier vehicles via a software update? Not that my Model Y is particularly noisy, but less noise is better.

Suppsedly on the S/X in 2021

"One of the new pieces of hardware that Tesla installed in the refreshed Model S and Model X is a pair of active noise cancelling microphones embedded in the two front seats. They weren’t used until now, but with a recent software update, 2021.44.5, Tesla added a feature with a self-explanatory name, called Active Road Noise Reduction, and so they are finally used."
https://insideevs.com/news/555369/tesla-active-road-noise-reduction/

 

[tmeyer3]

Suppsedly on the S/X in 2021

"One of the new pieces of hardware that Tesla installed in the refreshed Model S and Model X is a pair of active noise cancelling microphones embedded in the two front seats. They weren’t used until now, but with a recent software update, 2021.44.5, Tesla added a feature with a self-explanatory name, called Active Road Noise Reduction, and so they are finally used."
https://insideevs.com/news/555369/tesla-active-road-noise-reduction/

My understanding is that true active noise cancelling requires the lower latency that the Ethernet bus Cybertruck has.

 

[Scott Beall]

Thanks @JBee and @scottf200!

You guys are amazing.

Or otherwise you can do it yourself too, and just take 90kWh and divide it by the amount of kWh you use per day. If you only have a monthly unit figure on your bill, just divide it by 30.2 first to get an average, and then do the above.

Is this 90 kWh the capacity of the regular batter or battery with extender?

I downloaded my monthly energy consumption and did the math. I'm embarrassed to share how much energy I'm using.

Of course, that assume you would use all your electrical appliances the same as you "normally" would and I would guess people would go into "conserve" mode.

I think that would be much simpler than the usual technique of splitting off "critical" circuits to be powered by the backup. Just a list of things to turn off when on backup power should be fine. Given my profligate energy use I'll need to put together a spreadsheet like yours of the power draws of all the stuff in the house.

Still the CT will save me a lot over installing a natural gas generator. Plus it gives me a reason to keep the truck in the garage while my wife parks outside. "Honey it's for the safety of the family".

 

[JBee]

Thanks @JBee and @scottf200!

You guys are amazing.



Is this 90 kWh the capacity of the regular batter or battery with extender?

I downloaded my monthly energy consumption and did the math. I'm embarrassed to share how much energy I'm using.



I think that would be much simpler than the usual technique of splitting off "critical" circuits to be powered by the backup. Just a list of things to turn off when on backup power should be fine. Given my profligate energy use I'll need to put together a spreadsheet like yours of the power draws of all the stuff in the house.

Still the CT will save me a lot over installing a natural gas generator. Plus it gives me a reason to keep the truck in the garage while my wife parks outside. "Honey it's for the safety of the family".

Well technically it's meant to be 123kWh in the CT, but I already subtracted the unusable part and a bit of a buffer for max effective house use. This is without the range extender which would give about another 45kWh.

Obviously if you have to charge elsewhere it would be diminished by the extent of the range you used to get back and forth from the house.

I live off-grid, so I would definietly suggest going through your appliances and actually testing each one with a plug in power meter and putting them in a spreadsheet to analyse. You'll find your fridge, kitchen and laundry are probably your biggest consumers over time. The fridge can be 15% by itself.

But that all pales in comparison if you have electric hot water or room heating, or air-conditioning. Although the reverse cycle air con uses an efficient heat pump, if the house leaks heat like a stiff because of poor insulation and air tightness, then it's not actually the air conditioners fault.

I always say for off grid use, that the best energy is the one you don't have to use, so you don't have to make it.

So it actually works out better buying a new, less energy consuming appliance rather than lots of extra generation for the high consumption you already have.

Without HVAC and hot water you should be able to get the rest of the house under 10kWh per day fairly easy with normal consumption, for emergency probably down to 5-7kWh, depending on what fridge you have. So that would be up to 14days on a CT battery, or 21 with an extender.

We average around 12kWh with 4 people, and at least 2x 3hours of gaming PC, Starlink (uses nearly as much as our fridge), induction cooking, lighting washing and includes everything except hot water. Of that not even half needs to be used at night, as we optimise for daytime use when the solar is going, which results in less battery cycling. Being a passive home in a moderate climate we run the heat pump about 15-25 days a year for heating and about 10 days for cooling. That uses around 5-8kWh a day when it's on and once again we try to optimise for daylight solar use and store heat in the hydronic heated/cooled slab thermal mass overnight.

 

[kpanda17]

Wow, tons of info.

They also talk about BAW's distant cousin, Tesla's official? material "HFS" ("hard friken stainless").

Front mega casting is done using same type machine used for Tesla Model Y, Idra 6000 (NOT Idra 9000). So Cybertruck needs one Idra 6000 and one Idra 9000 and Tesla might already have mega casting capacity for 350K/year Cybertrucks.

As a schooled and career engineer, i thoroughly enjoyed this
Amazing

how open and accommodating are the Tesla leaders

 

[scottf200]

You'll find your fridge, kitchen and laundry are probably your biggest consumers over time. The fridge can be 15% by itself.

My kids and I used this cool Sense device that monitors our electricity usage.

This is from my 23-year-old 'inefficient' fridge that keeps on ticking. I do clean the coils like clockwork.

 

[JBee]

My kids and I used this cool Sense device that monitors our electricity usage.

This is from my 23-year-old 'inefficient' fridge that keeps on ticking. I do clean the coils like clockwork.

So the CT would run just your fridge for 45days. Cool. A powerwall just 7 days. Not so cool.

CT is the best Powerwall, and cheaper per kWh, and comes with a free Stainless Steel truck you can drive all those batteries around in.

On fridges:
You can convert large 132gallon trunk freezers to run in the fridge temp range with a thermostat kit, then they use about 0.1kWh a day. Good insulation is key, and being top opening stops all the cold from falling out to the ground when you open it. Fridge drawers are also better normally.

But for off the shelf fridge, Liebherr is King, followed by Bosch. But you pay through the nose. The next "consumer grade" is LG/Samsung/hisense with inverter compressors. They tend to use less as the compressor can be throttle instead of switched.

But insulation needs to always be considered, like wall thickness, as the heat pump is doing nothing much else than what a bilge pump does with water on a boat.. pump all the heat out of the box that leaked in.

 

[scottf200]

On fridges:
You can convert large 132gallon trunk freezers to run in the fridge temp range with a thermostat kit, then they use about 0.1kWh a day. Good insulation is key, and being top opening stops all the cold from falling out to the ground when you open it. Fridge drawers are also better normally.

Funny you should mention that. We have ~30 yr old chest freezer (opens from top) in our garage currently. We realized that when we move we need to replace this.
It does run less than 1/2 as often (304 times / month) and uses a lot less wattage (115 vs 187).

 

[PilotPete]

MUNRO DRINKING GAME: Take a shot every time Sandy says “at the end of the day”

You mean " it is what it is " ?

"Back when I was working for Ford on the Taurus..."

 

[CyberGus]

So the CT would run just your fridge for 45days. Cool. A powerwall just 7 days. Not so cool.

Literally

 

[TruckElectric]

MUNRO DRINKING GAME: Take a shot every time Sandy says “at the end of the day”

And "whatnot"

 

[RVAC]

Yeah, that wasn't in good taste. I get that they may not be doing all that well financially but still ...

 

[scottf200]

A) Of course, that assume you would use all your electrical appliances the same as you "normally" would and I would guess people would go into "conserve" mode. A

Ford figures 13 kWh/day apparently in this PDF overview. I think their (Ford's) ads all say 3 days IIRC. I just found their FAQ (link)which says 3 days and 30 kWh/day.

Like Ford, Tesla is using 30 kWh/day as well.

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