Hidden 200psi air compressor and 2.5gal tank installed under bed vault

[aeroguy]

by chance would you have clearance for a port like this?

https://kussmaul.com/091-28AK

Yes, plenty. There's at least 4-5 inches of clearance in most places, but looks like that's designed for a connection with the male end on the panel. The female side of the connection should be on the panel side with the built-in shutoff.

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[REM]

Yes, plenty. There's at least 4-5 inches of clearance in most places, but looks like that's designed for a connection with the male end on the panel. The female side of the connection should be on the panel side with the built-in shutoff.

Nice! Yep, there are several of these types out there and I'm sure you could put either connector you wanted.

 

[aeroguy]

Awesome build, thanks for sharing! I was just pointing at my wife’s Rivian compressor nozzle and saying I want that in my CT. Would you mind sharing your parts list, particularly the 48v>24v DC converter, you used?

What was the total cost? Time to install?

Very nice! Can you give us an ide on time to disassemble, install and reassemble?

Total cost was ~$1500 and a day or two to install start to finish. With a more basic compressor, components, etc., it could be done for under $500.

Actual time for me was a couple of weekends as I tried a few different layouts, ordered parts, etc. The only disassembly/reassembly required was the Bed Cargo Smugglers Bay (Remove and Install) and the Undertray - Diffuser (Remove and Install) from the service manual. Maybe <45min for removal and a little more for installation. There's nothing complicated about removing the panels other than, if you have a bed divider, making sure the rails are aligned properly during reinstall (as high as they go). The undertray diffuser removal is a bit of a pain with all of the clips.

Parts list:

$400​	VIAIR 330C-HG 24V Compressor
$100​	VIAIR 2.5gal steel tank
$139​	48V to 24V 60A DC-DC converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFJJX496?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
$15​	10A/24V automotive relay
$25​	5/16" Nylon Tubing: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/170/5173K68
$10​	Compression Sleeves: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/207/50915K194
$5​	Compression Fittings (straight): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/206/50915K318
$10​	Compression Fittings (90deg): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/206/50915K718
$20​	Through-wall connector: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/57/5454K87
$20​	Check valve: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/543/7768K22
$65​	200psi Pressure Switch: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/685/3454K53
$60​	Solenoid Valve: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/511/4711K512
$50​	Extruded aluminum angle (local hardware store)
$200​	Various compressor fittings, wires, hoses, nuts/bolts, etc
$215​	Precision Air Regulator (0-40PSI): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1242/4963K31
$215​	Precision Air Regulator (0-160PSI): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1242/4963K31
$35​	Vibration Damping: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1694/93945K109

 

[HaulingAss]

A contractors' dream.

It would run a small pneumatic finish/trim nailer or screw gun. But all the contractors I know retired their pneumatic tools years ago, for more convenient and generally more capable battery-electric tools. Even the framing nailers have gone electric (and this compressor would be woefully undersized for framing). It seems pneumatic tires are the last great stronghold of pneumatics since there are no better alternatives.

A custom home is being built next door to me. I haven't heard any air compressors on site yet! Thank my lucky stars!

 

[HaulingAss]

Total cost was ~$1500 and a day or two to install start to finish. With a more basic compressor, components, etc., it could be done for under $500.

Actual time for me was a couple of weekends as I tried a few different layouts, ordered parts, etc. The only disassembly/reassembly required was the Bed Cargo Smugglers Bay (Remove and Install) and the Undertray - Diffuser (Remove and Install) from the service manual. Maybe <45min for removal and a little more for installation. There's nothing complicated about removing the panels other than, if you have a bed divider, making sure the rails are aligned properly during reinstall (as high as they go). The undertray diffuser removal is a bit of a pain with all of the clips.

Parts list:

$400​	VIAIR 330C-HG 24V Compressor
$100​	VIAIR 2.5gal steel tank
$139​	48V to 24V 60A DC-DC converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFJJX496?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
$15​	10A/24V automotive relay
$25​	5/16" Nylon Tubing: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/170/5173K68
$10​	Compression Sleeves: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/207/50915K194
$5​	Compression Fittings (straight): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/206/50915K318
$10​	Compression Fittings (90deg): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/206/50915K718
$20​	Through-wall connector: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/57/5454K87
$20​	Check valve: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/543/7768K22
$65​	200psi Pressure Switch: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/685/3454K53
$60​	Solenoid Valve: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/511/4711K512
$50​	Extruded aluminum angle (local hardware store)
$200​	Various compressor fittings, wires, hoses, nuts/bolts, etc
$215​	Precision Air Regulator (0-40PSI): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1242/4963K31
$215​	Precision Air Regulator (0-160PSI): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1242/4963K31
$35​	Vibration Damping: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/1694/93945K109

Just a couple of helpful suggestions/cautions:

It looks like you used a fixed setpoint pressure switch with a cut-in of 165 psi and a cutoff of 200 psi. If used for airing up all tires for towing/off-roading, that's a pretty high-pressure setting considering the highest pressure the tires will need is 65-70 psi. The much higher pressure will tax that little single cylinder compressor, especially when filling the tank after a water purge and airing up four tires. This is true even though the compressor is rated to 200 psi. The warmer the day, the more this will stress the compressor. And if you off-road with anyone, they will want to use it too, potentially doubling the load on the compressor. Keep in mind, the pressure the compressor actually sees before shutoff is reached will be a bit higher than the shut-off setpoint of 200 psi (due to air friction in the hoses and fittings).

The compressor will get hot, the 2.5-gallon tank is not enough to fill four tires without the compressor kicking on, even if starting with 200 psi. in the tank, if the tires were aired down very low. So the net effect of the tank is to extend compressor run times (by the time the tank is recharged to 200 psi again). And the higher pressure will cause more condensation inside the pressure tank which will require more frequent purging to prevent water buildup and internal rusting of the unprotected tank. The manufacturer recommends replacing the tank every 2-5 years (the exact frequency depending upon whether it is purged after each ease, which they recommend). That's also a lot of wasted battery energy everytime the tank is purged. With compressors and compressed air, the problems compound, the higher the pressure. And the energy consumed and wear on the compressor skyrocket with higher pressures.

Related to excessive heat, I can't tell from the photos what kind of pressure tubing was used to make the connection to the compressor. I would just caution that the poly tubing used for most of the system is only rated to 225F, not enough for a direct connection to the compressor, while leaving an adequate safety margin. It would need a metal connection with enough radiating area to lower temperatures below the temperature/pressure rating of the tubing before the compression fitting connection to the poly hose.

I would have skipped the air tank to keep system pressures down to only what was needed and let the compressor run continously as long as air was flowing. A shutoff pressure of 90 psi should be more than adequate for filling tires. No pressure tank will result in less system maintenance and much longer compressor life. There are many ways to design a system for filling tires, and it looks like you have other uses besides filling tires in mind, I'm just not sure what those uses are. I just wanted to provide some heads up of potential problem areas that I noticed and how reliability and longevity could be increased while decreasing the need for system maintenance.

 

[aeroguy]

Just a couple of helpful suggestions/cautions:

It looks like you used a fixed setpoint pressure switch with a cut-in of 165 psi and a cutoff of 200 psi. If used for airing up all tires for towing/off-roading, that's a pretty high-pressure setting considering the highest pressure the tires will need is 65-70 psi. The much higher pressure will tax that little single cylinder compressor, especially when filling the tank after a water purge and airing up four tires. This is true even though the compressor is rated to 200 psi. The warmer the day, the more this will stress the compressor. And if you off-road with anyone, they will want to use it too, potentially doubling the load on the compressor. Keep in mind, the pressure the compressor actually sees before shutoff is reached will be a bit higher than the shut-off setpoint of 200 psi (due to air friction in the hoses and fittings).

The compressor will get hot, the 2.5-gallon tank is not enough to fill four tires without the compressor kicking on, even if starting with 200 psi. in the tank, if the tires were aired down very low. So the net effect of the tank is to extend compressor run times (by the time the tank is recharged to 200 psi again). And the higher pressure will cause more condensation inside the pressure tank which will require more frequent purging to prevent water buildup and internal rusting of the unprotected tank. The manufacturer recommends replacing the tank every 2-5 years (the exact frequency depending upon whether it is purged after each ease, which they recommend). That's also a lot of wasted battery energy everytime the tank is purged. With compressors and compressed air, the problems compound, the higher the pressure. And the energy consumed and wear on the compressor skyrocket with higher pressures.

Related to excessive heat, I can't tell from the photos what kind of pressure tubing was used to make the connection to the compressor. I would just caution that the poly tubing used for most of the system is only rated to 225F, not enough for a direct connection to the compressor, while leaving an adequate safety margin. It would need a metal connection with enough radiating area to lower temperatures below the temperature/pressure rating of the tubing before the compression fitting connection to the poly hose.

I would have skipped the air tank to keep system pressures down to only what was needed and let the compressor run continously as long as air was flowing. A shutoff pressure of 90 psi should be more than adequate for filling tires. No pressure tank will result in less system maintenance and much longer compressor life. There are many ways to design a system for filling tires, and it looks like you have other uses besides filling tires in mind, I'm just not sure what those uses are. I just wanted to provide some heads up of potential problem areas that I noticed and how reliability and longevity could be increased while decreasing the need for system maintenance.

All great points, thanks. If someone is going for solely off road airing up/down, I’d agree, skip the tank and use an adjustable pressure cutoff switch.

I find the air tank and ~200psi is great/needed for filling bicycle tires (120psi) and works for the occasional rivet air tool. The supplied metal braided hose from the compressor connects reaches the tank as everything is laid out so heat is not a concern. Moisture definitely is. Short of an inline desiccant air dryer, venting after each trip will have to suffice.

Updated port and switches:

 

[M0unt41nm4n]

dude... nicely done. I have that on my Jeep. I would LOVE to have that on my CT.

 

[moniker]

Can you share a link to the recessed air port?

 

[aeroguy]

Can you share a link to the recessed air port?

ProMariner Universal AC Plug Holder. Found it at a local west marine store for ~$15.

Added a standard quick connect fitting separately, held in place with epoxy.

 

[moniker]

How did you mount the converter?

 

[aeroguy]

How did you mount the converter?

Sandwiched between the casting and curved steel backing. One stainless steel rivnut and bolt with some primer on the steel to hold it in place. And one sheared stainless steel bolt…for looks.

 

[moniker]

Thanks!

One more for you.

Would you be willing to check the time it takes to air up one tires from 35 PSI to 50 PSI? Shopping around for compressors and trying to decide if I want to go single or double (and figure out the power)

 

[aeroguy]

Thanks!

One more for you.

Would you be willing to check the time it takes to air up one tires from 35 PSI to 50 PSI? Shopping around for compressors and trying to decide if I want to go single or double (and figure out the power)

No problem, will be able to test this weekend.

Any other good DC compressors out there? Two of these VIAIR compressors at 8A/24V plus converter and wire losses is going to be over the 400W limit for the roof.

 

[HaulingAss]

No problem, will be able to test this weekend.

If the tank starts empty, it would be helpful to provide times from the start of pressurization. If the tank starts full, time until the compressor reaches the cutoff again. Also, the time just for the tire filling part.

Thanks!

 

[aeroguy]

Would you be willing to check the time it takes to air up one tires from 35 PSI to 50 PSI? Shopping around for compressors and trying to decide if I want to go single or double (and figure out the power)

If the tank starts empty, it would be helpful to provide times from the start of pressurization. If the tank starts full, time until the compressor reaches the cutoff again. Also, the time just for the tire filling part.

Simple answer: 4:29 and 9 minutes..

Long answer: here’s a few performance metrics and comments for this setup. Overall still finding this setup works well. At some point, I probably need to change out the 24v converter for a dedicated 28v converter. VIAIR calls for 28v and that should decrease total fill time by about 5 minutes for 4 tires. The efficiency and speed of the VIAIR is dismal compared to the California Air compressor (1/2 the power, 1/4 the fill rate), but for DC compressors, I haven't seen a better option.



For 28v, I used a victron buck-boost converter laying around, set exactly at 28. Under load, the victron maintained an accurate 28v whereas the 24v converter dropped to about 23.5v. I'd guess the 24v setup uses about 250W with efficiency losses factored in. Maybe 275W for the 28v setup since the converter brings the voltage down to 24, then the victron boosting to 28. The victron can't handle 48v and I haven't found a dedicated 48-28v DC-DC converter.



The times below are to first reach each set point. An additional 15-20 seconds was necessary as the pressure settled.

PSI	VIAIR 24v	VIAIR 28v	Cal Air 110v
0-35 tank	1m	1m	18s
35-50 tire	6m	4m 29s	1m 12s
50-65 tire	7m	5m 54s	2m 48s

With the 2.5 gal tank full (~200psi), this can fill one tire from 35-50 in <1 minute and ends up leaving the tank at 72psi. From there, it's about 9 minutes to refill the tank to 200.



The California Air compressor (~$150) fits perfectly in the frunk. This is a great option if quick fill time and easy setup is important (and higher psi is not needed). Had this sitting around so I was originally using this until the VIAIR setup was ready.

Cal Air 1P1060S

https://www.californiaairtools.com/...ompressors/3-5-hp-air-compressor/cat-1p1060s/



Victron Buck-Boost Converter

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/buck-boost-dc-dc-converter-25a-50a

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