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Powering Accessories Struggles - Don't let this happen to you!

savagecabbage

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Anyone gotten a response from Hansshow on this or found a solution?
This is from Hansshow


Regarding the Tesla speaker issue:

The possible cause could be our wiring harness or an issue with the grounding of the original speaker wires. We have already replaced the wiring harness, so the harness issue has been ruled out.

It may be caused by the negative wiring of the roof speakers in the Tesla. Previously, some customers reported that:

The problem is caused by the solder joints of the roof speakers contacting the metal frame, creating a short circuit.

When the car audio system resets after about two hours, pressing the button under the speaker causes the speaker to turn off immediately.

To fix it, partially removing the roof lining and covering the solder joints with electrical tape resolved the issue, and the system ran normally afterward.

On the roof and door speakers, ensure that metal contact is blocked; placing a plastic barrier between the speaker and metal side helped resolve the shorting issue.

Alternatively:
4. You can try disconnecting the right door sill connector and reconnecting the original vehicle plug. Then:

Lock the car for two hours.

Stay at least 10 meters away from the car.

Hold the key and phone, and turn off Sentry Mode. 5. about this problem ,we give you 20% compensate ok ? thank you
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mongo

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This is from Hansshow


Regarding the Tesla speaker issue:

The possible cause could be our wiring harness or an issue with the grounding of the original speaker wires. We have already replaced the wiring harness, so the harness issue has been ruled out.

It may be caused by the negative wiring of the roof speakers in the Tesla. Previously, some customers reported that:

The problem is caused by the solder joints of the roof speakers contacting the metal frame, creating a short circuit.

When the car audio system resets after about two hours, pressing the button under the speaker causes the speaker to turn off immediately.

To fix it, partially removing the roof lining and covering the solder joints with electrical tape resolved the issue, and the system ran normally afterward.

On the roof and door speakers, ensure that metal contact is blocked; placing a plastic barrier between the speaker and metal side helped resolve the shorting issue.

Alternatively:
4. You can try disconnecting the right door sill connector and reconnecting the original vehicle plug. Then:

Lock the car for two hours.

Stay at least 10 meters away from the car.

Hold the key and phone, and turn off Sentry Mode. 5. about this problem ,we give you 20% compensate ok ? thank you
The speakers are not (supposed to be) grounded...
Nor is it likely messing with that harness would cause the speaker to suddenly short to the chassis.

If their harness is designed wrong, swapping it doesn't prove anything .
 

That Beast Mode

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This is from Hansshow


Regarding the Tesla speaker issue:

The possible cause could be our wiring harness or an issue with the grounding of the original speaker wires. We have already replaced the wiring harness, so the harness issue has been ruled out.

It may be caused by the negative wiring of the roof speakers in the Tesla. Previously, some customers reported that:

The problem is caused by the solder joints of the roof speakers contacting the metal frame, creating a short circuit.

When the car audio system resets after about two hours, pressing the button under the speaker causes the speaker to turn off immediately.

To fix it, partially removing the roof lining and covering the solder joints with electrical tape resolved the issue, and the system ran normally afterward.

On the roof and door speakers, ensure that metal contact is blocked; placing a plastic barrier between the speaker and metal side helped resolve the shorting issue.

Alternatively:
4. You can try disconnecting the right door sill connector and reconnecting the original vehicle plug. Then:

Lock the car for two hours.

Stay at least 10 meters away from the car.

Hold the key and phone, and turn off Sentry Mode. 5. about this problem ,we give you 20% compensate ok ? thank you

What a load of complete bullshit..... So ALL of us who have their digital mirror coincidentally have a bad solder joint on the speaker? And this joint magically fixes it self when their wiring harness is removed and it is returned to factory state. Ken literally showed this in his video proving the issue was the wiring harness. Yeah ok @Hansshow Technology do you think we're all going to believe that? Maybe if it was an isolated incident.
 

REDNAVE

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Glad I found this thread. I installed the 10.33” screen today and sure enough it can’t daisy chain. I already removed the BSD light strip because I wanted my 12” mirror to work again. Following thread, hope our collective persistence finds a solution!
 

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So if you were to use this harness and bring 12v power to it from another source like an auxbeam off the frunk feed or an obd connector, would the problem go away?
 


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So if you were to use this harness and bring 12v power to it from another source like an auxbeam off the frunk feed or an obd connector, would the problem go away?
The harness seems to not be passing through all of the circuits. It power the single device, but kills other function(s).
Powering the accessory directly (no added harness) avoids that issue, but if it is also using the blind spot signal for color change, you'ld lose that feature unless you splice it in.
 

hemiarch

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The harness seems to not be passing through all of the circuits. It power the single device, but kills other function(s).
Powering the accessory directly (no added harness) avoids that issue, but if it is also using the blind spot signal for color change, you'ld lose that feature unless you splice it in.
That would make it pointless. The thing is called a blind spot detector right?
bummer.
Tesstudio’s s92 mirror harness used to do this but the problem was resolvable by bringing power from the inside of the camera housing on the windshield instead of from that harness.
 

dLux

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Tesstudio’s s92 mirror harness used to do this but the problem was resolvable by bringing power from the inside of the camera housing on the windshield instead of from that harness.
I have the S92 mirror and experiencing the same thing. Do you have some instructions about how to fix that? A YouTube video or maybe a few photos?
 

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Just saw on another thread that these rear mirror harnesses are impacting the latest FSD update. Is this accurate? Can anyone confirm?
 

dLux

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Just saw on another thread that these rear mirror harnesses are impacting the latest FSD update. Is this accurate? Can anyone confirm?
FSD works totally fine for me (Tesstudio S92 mirror). It only affects my speakers.
 


HaulingAss

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11 is ground, but 8 is an analog tweeter drive, not A2B. If something is being powered from it, the amp must be biasing the speaker at a mid level positive voltage rather than using a bipolar drive.
I would be surprised, wouldn't that reduce the volume range of the speaker?
 

mongo

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I would be surprised, wouldn't that reduce the volume range of the speaker?
Speaker only cares about voltage at it's terminals
-5 and +5 from bipolar 5V supplies is the same as 0 and 10 from a mono-polar. Since Cybertruck has a 48V rail, it might make sense?
Not sure if it's what they are doing, but it's the only reason I could think of you tap that line...
 
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?? It makes no sense to DC bias a speaker. It is, at its root, a coil. And what happens when you put a DC voltage into a coil of wire? Lots of current!
 

mongo

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?? It makes no sense to DC bias a speaker. It is, at its root, a coil. And what happens when you put a DC voltage into a coil of wire? Lots of current!
The example was for peak output.
You put the same voltage on both sides when there is no signal.
Think of it as bipolar supplies offset by half.

Again, not saying they are doing it, just that it's possible. Makes more sense to drive the speaker bipolar with a full bridge where one side is positive and other is grounded and swap for the other polarity.
 
 








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