Cybertruck Owners Manual - Specs & Info Dump! 💡 (Video Form & Screenshots)

[Woodrick]

no XM right? since none of the cybertrucks had an XM receiver in them previously?

I have not heard any indication that it does have XM.
Tesla seems to have moved away from it. I think that the other options are 'good enough' these days that the extra cost of installing the XM equipment, plus that antenna isn't justified.

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[truck]

I have not heard any indication that it does have XM.
Tesla seems to have moved away from it. I think that the other options are 'good enough' these days that the extra cost of installing the XM equipment, plus that antenna isn't justified.

plus there’s really no point in xm when you have digital on demand streaming (Spotify or slacker) for free

 

[REM]

This can't be true, right? Usually, you'd just visit a webpage and it'll redirect you to the portal.

they don't have this enabled because it introduces a huge set of vulnerabilities. Likely to be enable in due time.

 

[Scribbious]

Does the 40A max combined output concern anybody when considering it as home backup during power outage -like many in the US had yesterday? Looking at my Emporia feed today (with grid power) I'm seeing 42A while writing this with spikes to 70+. Obviously, if power was out we would be more conscientious and switch higher loads off/on in a coordinated way.

 

[CyberGus]

plus there’s really no point in xm when you have digital on demand streaming (Spotify or slacker) for free

Streaming fails when outside the cellular network, but satellites are everywhere ?‍

 

[CyberGus]

Does the 40A max combined output concern anybody when considering it as home backup during power outage -like many in the US had yesterday? Looking at my Emporia feed today (with grid power) I'm seeing 42A while writing this with spikes to 70+. Obviously, if power was out we would be more conscientious and switch higher loads off/on in a coordinated way.

Powershare is 9.6kW continuous. Not sure what you mean by "42A", since that is only 5kw of 120v power? Only high-current loads should be 220v (A/C, dryer, oven/stove, etc.).

 

[scottf200]

I think the problem is the vehicle checks for connectivity and if it sees a redirect it drops the connection. So like was mentioned before, MAC spoofing is probably your best bet.

FYI, redirect works in my '17 TMX as I just tried it using https://seosly.com/about/ which I got from this excellent article on redirecting. https://seosly.com/blog/how-to-check-if-a-link-redirects-to-another-website/

 

[scottf200]

Does the 40A max combined output concern anybody when considering it as home backup during power outage -like many in the US had yesterday? Looking at my Emporia feed today (with grid power) I'm seeing 42A while writing this with spikes to 70+. Obviously, if power was out we would be more conscientious and switch higher loads off/on in a coordinated way.

Powershare is 9.6kW continuous. Not sure what you mean by "42A", since that is only 5kw of 120v power? Only high-current loads should be 220v (A/C, dryer, oven/stove, etc.).

He must be referring to 120v+240v outlet limit of 40a (see below) and not the powershare from the NACS.

 

[CyberGus]

Looking at my Emporia feed today (with grid power) I'm seeing 42A while writing this with spikes to 70+.

I assume "Emporia" is your local power provider? My provider shows my usage in kWh, not "amps". I average around 1000 kWh per month in the winter, double that in the summer. That's an average of 33 kWh per day, or just under 2kW load per hour.

 

[CyberGus]

He must be referring to 120v+240v outlet limit of 40a (see below) and not the powershare from the NACS

You're right, Powershare continuous load is 11.5 kW

https://www.tesla.com/powershare

 

[Woodrick]

Does the 40A max combined output concern anybody when considering it as home backup during power outage -like many in the US had yesterday? Looking at my Emporia feed today (with grid power) I'm seeing 42A while writing this with spikes to 70+. Obviously, if power was out we would be more conscientious and switch higher loads off/on in a coordinated way.

I believe that you are talking about powering your home.

Yes, indeed, many modern homes pull a lot more than 11kW. What the low power solutions like this normally do is to move a number of loads off to a different panel and only power that panel. Loads like refrigerators and lights. That probably doesn't include Air conditioning.

If you look at some of the Generac 10kW generators, you will probably see some installation examples. I'm sure that they are similar here.

 

[Scribbious]

Powershare is 9.6kW continuous. Not sure what you mean by "42A", since that is only 5kw of 120v power? Only high-current loads should be 220v (A/C, dryer, oven/stove, etc.).

I may be reading it wrong, but my Emporia (https://www.emporiaenergy.com/) energy monitor displays real-time amperage going through my panel. It was likely that HVAC and Water heater were on and possibly the well pump started and caused the spike. I figure I'll just need to make sure that too many don't call at the same time or simply only power 'critical loads' via a sub panel as others have suggested.

Since that original post, total Amps have averaged around 10

 

[CyberGus]

Not many non-CT buyers for tires with Cybertruck-specific sidewall designs

Looks fine to me ?‍

 

[cvalue13]

Looks fine to me ?‍

oh great, now my truck only gets 300mi!

and Farley lied to me!

 

[Rutrow]

Sigh: "The bed cargo outlets are disabled while in Drive". The whole point of those 120v cargo outlets for me is to run some powered coolers in the back to keep fridge/freezer/medicine stuff at the right temperature for a month or two on a road trip. Oh, except that power to the 120v outlets is also disabled while charging. So much for road tripping with a powered cooler, it will be off while driving or charging.

Your powered coolers may be 120v ready, but they're probably 12V DC powered. You likely have a 120v AC to DC converter. My Igloo is <70 watts. So, if yours are similar you have few options:

1. Use the 120v in the rear of the console with your 120V converter. (takes up rear cabin space ?)
2. Power a couple with the 65 W USB C outlets in the back seat (you'll need an adapter for USB C to whatever proprietary plug your cooler uses)
3. Install some power panel to the frunk enclosure (120 outlet or a bank of USB C outlets connected to the 400 W 48V power feed under the frunk tub. (Involves a lot of customization, i.e. not a quick solution, but! once you get it installed, is the best for ease and space utilization. The frunk is probably well suited for coolers.

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