Real story on corrosion?

Richardfiggie

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What's the true skinny on possible corrosion on ct's. That would be a showstopper for me in Wisconsin
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cgladue

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Doubtful. Takes time for rail dust to buildup
it happens on all vehicles not wrapped on rail, several days from TX to FL and sitting in the railyard waiting to be transported for days seems like plenty of time to acumulate rail dust to me
 


Woodrick

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There's really not enough information to panic about yet.
 

Outdoors

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Rail dust is not something that accumulates to be visible. It could be one spec or 200. All that matters is the proximity to the dust, and can you see it. As said before on I think the 8th thread before. Living in a rail area it is considered part of doing business.

Put a car on a carrier for a train. That is like living in a rail yard for years.

Really this is a prep concern. Does Tesla do enough to prep its cars for delivery? It should be the same process company wide. Yet we see cars that are spotless, and we see cars that are muddy being delivered. Why the disparity? Should be a consistent repeatable process to prep a car/truck.
 

cgladue

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i think in most cases its up to the service centers to finish the prep, and just like how much effort they put into the delivery of the vehicle some dont put in the effort to prep the vehicle to be delivered like others do which is not right and they should be held accountable.
 

DumpsterFire

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Doubtful. Takes time for rail dust to buildup
Naw. Only need a few specs of rail dust to adhere and you’ll get little rust spots. Have dealt with this with a few cars over the years. Comes off very easily.

you might want to take a minute and peruse the myriad of threads on this MB that have beat this issue to death….
 
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ÆCIII

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I would recommend staying away from steel wool or metal scouring pads. It's possible that micro sized particles embedded in the stainless surface after scrubbing could be a catalyst for specs of corrosion as often is the case with dissimilar metals. But that would not be the stainless itself rusting as much as the embedded particles and the inherent galvanic corrosion specs those particles might cause.

Other than that I don't see rust on the actual Cybertruck skin being any major issue at all. Tesla has done plenty of research on this and those who would doubt that have not researched Tesla nearly enough.

Look at it this way: How many stainless steel barbecue grills have been sitting out on decks, or stainless wet bars and sinks sitting on patios, for years and years without even a hint of rust or a corrosion problem?? That alone should be enough to tell you most of these rust stories being attempted, are just part of the loser FUD narratives.

- ÆCIII
 


Dazureus

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I think we need some kind of an FAQ on this rust topic because it seems like it's been talked to death and easy remedies have been found. Yes, it would be nice if the service center would prep the vehicles before releasing them to the customer, but it's been in the standard Tesla checklist to check your paint quality and this is no different. Surface prep/paint prep is on my list of delivery day items to look out for.

Also, do people not own white cars anymore? My white '16 Model X and white '13 Audi TT R/S both get rust paint contamination spots. Once a year I heavily detail all my cars and part of that process includes Iron decontamination spray and clay bar. I'm continuously getting these metal contamination spots from embedded metal particulates in the paint clearcoat surface throughout the year, and they're easily removable with a quick claybar rub.

While the contamination probably isn't embedding in the surface of the HFS stainless on the cybertruck, like it does in the relatively soft clearcoat of a painted vehicle, it's totally possible that metal contaminants are adhering via oxidation on the surface.
 

scottf200

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What's the true skinny on possible corrosion on ct's. That would be a showstopper for me in Wisconsin
Via Wes -- Cybertruck Lead Engineer plus Reliability, Test, and Analysis for all Tesla vehicles.

_ Stainless is reactive and free iron that sits on it will rust. It's surface contamination only and can be cleaned off easily. Bar Keeper's Friend used here works well, citrisurf77 can also loosen the deposit and simply wipe it off. If anything stubborn use a blue non-scratch Scotch Brite pad as it won't leave any marks on the metal.

_ Iron becomes iron oxide until there's no free iron left to convert. In the process it creates red corrosion product which you'll see on the surface. Clean it anytime or don't if it doesn't bother you. It's not the base metal. The specs are about the size of the pin of a pinhead.
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